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box driveline ?

73redblaze

73redblaze

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if i use 2" for the inner do i use 2.25 or 2.50 for the outter? and on that note, does anyone know how much hi-angle charges for a np208 slip yolk driveline? i can call after the weekend but im sure someone has looked into it
 
2in 1/4 wall with 2.5in 1/4 wall OR theres some wackjobs out there that think thats not enough and use 2.5in 1/4 wall with 3in 1/4 wall.
 
Stomis said:
2in 1/4 wall with 2.5in 1/4 wall OR theres some wackjobs out there that think thats not enough and use 2.5in 1/4 wall with 3in 1/4 wall.
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Stomis, I had to go measure mine to make sure I wasn't a wackjob! :rolleyes:

020-1.jpg


Oh, and mine is 2.5" x .250" wall outer tube with 2.0" x .250" wall inner.
 
TheBeast_88K5 said:
Are these trail-rig rear d-lines?

Could I use this for a front shaft? :dunno:
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Mines a front shaft. Definitely trail only, or front with locking hubs. I have drive flanges and at blazerBash the guys said they could here the clattering of the shaft over the tires. While driving I never could hear anything other than the driveshaft, ever.
When put in 4wd, so there is pressure on the shaft, it's quiet, but with the hubs engaged and in 2wd, Dam it's loud.
 
ChrisPerry said:
Mines a front shaft. Definitely trail only, or front with locking hubs. I have drive flanges and at blazerBash the guys said they could here the clattering of the shaft over the tires. While driving I never could hear anything other than the driveshaft, ever.
When put in 4wd, so there is pressure on the shaft, it's quiet, but with the hubs engaged and in 2wd, Dam it's loud.
Click to expand...

Did I mention it's LOUD!!!
 
You can get 2.5" .250" wall seamless receiver hitch tubing that 2" .250" wall slips VERY nicely into. That's what I built my jackstands out of and the fit is great with the outer tube being clean wall on all 4 inside walls.

IMAG0352.jpg


That being said I don't think it's worth the effort, cost or inevitable wear and tear running a home built square tube shaft will cause to your drivetrain. You can get shafts made from the big names in 4x4 drivelines for $400ish. I'd just save up and get the right shaft.
 
NorCal_Chris said:
tons of people use em for front driveshafts. Just know most shafts wobble bad over 35-40mph so if you want to do driving at speed in 4wd it isnt gonna cut it
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Well... We know the answer to that one, now don't we... :haha:



:thumb:

And I don't need a new driveshaft, yet....
 
Avery4jc said:
You can get 2.5" .250" wall seamless receiver hitch tubing that 2" .250" wall slips VERY nicely into. That's what I built my jackstands out of and the fit is great with the outer tube being clean wall on all 4 inside walls.

IMAG0352.jpg


That being said I don't think it's worth the effort, cost or inevitable wear and tear running a home built square tube shaft will cause to your drivetrain. You can get shafts made from the big names in 4x4 drivelines for $400ish. I'd just save up and get the right shaft.
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I agree. I ran one in my chevy and from the moment I finished it I didnt like it. Its not that there was anything wrong with it other than being huge, I just felt like I was really half assing something.

AND just for the record mine was super straight and centered and could be driven up to like 30mph with no bad vibes.
 
I used 2.5 x 1/4" wall reciever tubing and 2 x 1/4" for mine when I had it. Too heavy and too much noise for me though. But it was cheap, strong and had lots of travel.

I have since built one with long travel splines so I dont have to listen to it clanking all the time and wearing out the bearings and seals in my t-case front output.
 
Wouldnt it be possible to drill some spots on the slip part and put some nylon material that would snug it up more and still allow for movement?
 
Deuling said:
Wouldnt it be possible to drill some spots on the slip part and put some nylon material that would snug it up more and still allow for movement?
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Yes totally possible. One thing I noticed while building mine was that different steel manufacturers have different tolerances. While I constantly read that I would have to grind a notch on the outside of the inner tube corresponding to the weld seam of the other tube I had no such problem. In fact it seemed way looser than it should have been.
 
Stomis said:
Yes totally possible. One thing I noticed while building mine was that different steel manufacturers have different tolerances. While I constantly read that I would have to grind a notch on the outside of the inner tube corresponding to the weld seam of the other tube I had no such problem. In fact it seemed way looser than it should have been.
Click to expand...
i have heard the same thing. thanks for the help guys, just put in a order for 6ft of 2.5 tubing with .250 wall for the front and rear.
 
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