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boxed frame question

M

mollyman

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I will soon be boxing the frame on my 81 sub latter this summer. I am trying to get everything in order before I start. So I have 2 questions. First the front shakle how to box when I get to it. Should I just leave a hole in the new material our try to weld it to the actual piece where the bushing goes? Also (this might be a dumb question) but I know a guy that told me bolts are stronger than rivets and he claims that he replaced all the rivets in his frame with bolts, are they stronger? THANKS
 
i've thought about this myself. another question i had was "would it be better to have the fuel lines ran on the outside or just leave them where they are?"
 
Boz42 has some good pics of his frame boxed. You can just stop the new material in front of the hanger and start it back up again after it. Keep in mind if you ever decide to do a spring swap you will be reworking some of these areas to gain access to certain parts of the frame. I boxed mine in places using the steel I had on hand.
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f6415141.jpg
 
yeah, i'd say bolts are probably stronger than a comparably-sized (stock) rivet. stock rivets are simple and quick for the manufacturer, and i don't think they go through the same tempering processes as a bolt.

one thing to look out for when partially boxing a frame is that when you make a weak point strong, you'e essentially moved the weak point somewhere else. i don't mean you've literally moved the steel, of course. but, that former weak point may now be stronger than an adjacent former strong point. do the math. all-boxed is best, imo.
 
Replacing all the rivets in your frame with grade 8 bolts will tighten the whole chassis up and is much stronger.

The factory rivets aren't that strong, and wear out. As the frame flexes the holes the rivets are in wear out as well. If a rivet is in an oval hole, things can move. If a bolt is in an oval hole, it can hold the pieces together better, and prevent movement.

Think 7/16" bolts will do the job. Don't put grade 5 bolts in.
 
Rivets wear out. If it gets bad enough your truck can get really touchy going down the road. As if 40's arent bad enough on their own. A buddy of mine had that problem. Took us forever to figure it out. Replaced them with grade 8's and problem solved.
79k54life
http://www.woodlandoffroad.com
 
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Nice

I am gonna box mine and I'm pondering how the hell I can paint the inside when I am done. Any suggestions?

When replacing rivets with bolts it is also sweet to get rid of stoopid brackets that I will not use such as the top shock mount and park brake cable guide.

I think it would be best to mount fuel and brake lines on the inside-outside, possible fabbing up a shield type thing for the inline fuel pump.
 
If you're going to replace rivets with bolts I recommend a hardened heavy washer on both sides and use some type of clinch nut ("Stover" etc.). Torque the bolts!
 
I am gonna box mine and I'm pondering how the hell I can paint the inside when I am done. Any suggestions?
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drill some small holes along the frame and spray into them, maybe.

dip some mice in paint, shove them in the front of the frame, start the engine, and let them race to the back of the frame, smearing paint all the way down. :D
 
vortec said:
drill some small holes along the frame and spray into them, maybe.

dip some mice in paint, shove them in the front of the frame, start the engine, and let them race to the back of the frame, smearing paint all the way down. :D
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If it is fully boxed and sealed, why would you need to? It will take longer to rust out than you will be able to drive it.
 
Northeast

If I was in Arizona I wouldnt care, but Northeast New England? Plus, seeing as this is my first complete build I'd rather be safe than sorry. I like the mice idea.
 
I've been looking at the same thing myself for my Burb . . . what is it with our fat rigs that makes us wanna make them fatter? Well anywho as far as the paint is concerned, I had looked into sprayers that use long tubes on them . . . kinda like a garden sprayer but for paint.
Then again the rodents dipped in paint is a cool idea.
 
I'd like to hear a good solution to the painting issue as well (one that won't get me in trouble with PETA LOL). I agree that you don't need to paint the inside if you can make it airtight, but good luck making a boxed frame airtight. It won't take much of a hole to let water and/or road salt in.
 
I think the easiest and most expensive solution would be to dip it, but economically speaking...aint gonna f in happen. The only other things I can think of are

1) use or drill a couple holes and get as much as you can, and while it rots you can build another one to swap in..

2) as stated before there may be some sort of paint wand attachment thing or

3)you could paint the majority of it first and then weld it in... as long as you would give atleast a lung to see your truck sittin on a badass frame.

4)If you are doin a frame off you could make it vertical and pour.???


I think 2 is the best bet
 
cover all the new metal in weld through primer. so at least you have some protection.
 
What about boxing a foot or so at a time and then paint as you go, then weld and then paint. I am sure you would not be able to cover every square inch, but I guess you could real darn close.
 
54inches said:
What about boxing a foot or so at a time and then paint as you go, then weld and then paint. I am sure you would not be able to cover every square inch, but I guess you could real darn close.
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X2. They even make those little 2-3 inch rollers for painting walls that might work well and you can use an extension line 54 is saying.
 
**** it. If you really want to box it, don't worry about whether it will rust or now. Just drill some holes for drainage, thats your biggest concern. Think GM dipped every frame that rolled off the assembly line? Cause they are only partially boxed. When I was welding on my S10, leaves that were CRAMMED inside of the frame coat on fire. If they weren't holding moisture and making it rust out, why should you really worry? Besides, how long will it take to rust through a piece of 1/8 or 3/16" steel? You will likely destroy the truck before it would happen.
 
54inches said:
What about boxing a foot or so at a time and then paint as you go, then weld and then paint. I am sure you would not be able to cover every square inch, but I guess you could real darn close.
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Like I said this is what I am going to do.

I really think if someone is going to take the time to box their frame they probably care a little more about their rig than to say F it, but to each their own!:D
 
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