Boxing frame, a different approach

[RedBrute]

I've thought this over and it seems a reasonable alternate method but perhaps others have tried this and it may be un-doable. In my minds eye this seems simple but I may not be able to describe the idea clearly at first. The idea is to obtain a complete frame from a similar/ exact year truck, remove all brackets. Now take the PASSENGER side frame you just stripped and cut the frame at the cross members. Take those frame sections and place them against the DRIVERS side frame like this [] At that point they could be welded, or for those with no welder/skills, the frame sections could be lap-jointed and then bolted together. The second method may be stronger due to the overlap as well as easier to "undo" , I'm not referring to stacking frames, but overlapping/interlocking frame sections and adding additional steel under the crossmembers if required. I think this would be easy from the front shackles all the way back to the end of the frame at the tailgate. The end result would be a "boxed" or enclosed frame bolted at whatever bolt spacing would yield the maximum holding force with a minimum of holes. It would also be easy to paint all components prior to assembly for corrosion resistance. Does this sound like a good method, or is cutting, grinding, fitting, welding flat stock the the better method?

 

[vortec]

it does sound like it could be stronger, if done just right, but welding would still probably be better for spreading force evenly and limiting twist. this would add a huge amount of weight, so i hope your engine drivetrain and suspension can handle it.

one thing to double check is that the frame sides are exact mirror images. i really don't konw for sure, but quite a few vehicles have frame differences from side to side.

 

[sandawgk5]

It would prolly work if the frame was straight from front to back but it moves left and right at various spots along its length so it would not line up properly. You would end up with about a 10" gap in spots.

If you are going through all that work to strip an extra frame down just box the extra frame and swap bodys and drivelines over.

Ira

 

[vortec]

how about just overlapping matching sides of the two frames? you'd have to cut off the top or bottom and end up welding/bolting an "L" frame to a c-channel frame. it wouldn't be as strong as boxing, but it could help a lot and wouldn't add as much weight as the method you suggested. brainstorming.

 

[RedBrute]

I laid under the truck in question this weekend and actually made a cardboard template for the pass side. It matched the drivers side fine for the 3' section I made.I think the frames will interlock just fine. As far as swapping frames, I have considered this but I don't have the room/equipment to lift the body oof and the truck is a daily driver so the work will have to be done bit by bit on weekends.

 

[RedBrute]

I don't think the frame sections would be that much heavier that any plate that I would weld in... just the top and bottom "[" section would be additional weight plus a few bolts. Good feedback, keep 'em comming.

 

[RedBrute]

The variances in the frame would be a challenge but I think I could notch and weld the add-on frame sections to obtain a good fit. This approach, at that point, would be getting to as much work as fabbing plate steel and welding it in.

 

[jones]

That sounds like ALOTTA work.For a truly boxed frame and utmost strength,wouldn't be easier and alot less time consuming to build a frame from 3"x5" tube or something?

 

[atho]

I've heard if you knock all the rivets holding the crossmembers in, and either bolt or weld them back in, it goes a long way in helping frame flex. I think I'd try this before I go balls to the wall with a boxed frame.