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Boxing rear of frame around hitch... *Pics of the fix on post 38*

As has been said before dude your smart enough to bolt a new one on and say hmmmm that will work or not.

Get the new hitch bolt it on then look at the frame if it looks like the already weakened frame is going to tear, well then make it stronger. I think you should bolt on the new hitch before you do any boxing to make sure you don't tweak the frame by welding on it.
 
The larger receiver looks like the easy way to get a beefy one. Can't you just get a sleeve to run regular 2" ball mounts?
 
Yes. For under 20 bux.http://www.etrailer.com/p-58102.htm
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Done deal. I've got some tubing laying around at work that can take care of that. :)
 
wasted wages said:
Here's your answer.....


http://www.gooseneck.net/Carry_All.html


I hate ball hitchs...



.
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Yeah that will be nice when I have my own trailer but I also don't want to eliminate being able to tow regular trailers. I think a better hitch will solve my problem though.

black rust said:
Why? Maybe it's because I've never towed gooseneck, but I've never had a problem.
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Neither have I but I've heard nothing but good things when it comes to towing larger (8k+) loads. Obviously it distributes the tongue weight of the trailer directly over the rear axle instead of hanging it off the back of the frame with a bunch of extra leverage on the truck. Plus you can turn nice and tight (assuming you're towing it with a long bed). All around GN's sound like a big plus when it comes to towing.
 
I saw a k3500 tear the frame apart from the hitch at one of my old jobs. They were hauling a huge horse trailer with it, and the side of the frame actually cracked horizontally through the bolts holes (both rails) and flared open. The whole frame got welded up and then plate was welded down the inside so that a new hitch would still fit against the outside of the frame. That's where the strength really needs to be with a heavy hitch. I don't think boxing the frame is really that helpful, since the hitch is only attached to the outside and bottom of the rails. I do agree on upgrading the hitch to a Class 4 at least.
 
Sorry :o

I quess 2300lbs+ all on the front of the trailer is no bueno :D

Let me know when ya wanna get it all boxed up :thumb:
 
Why? Maybe it's because I've never towed gooseneck
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#1 weight is distributed directly over the center of the rear axle.
pivot point in relation to the front axle is less, less chance of a jackknife in a panic stop.
#2 trailer will do a 360° turn in it's own length. most can pivot past 90° .
#3 much easier to back up with.
#4 newer hitch hider balls eliminate the pin in the bed issue.


just a few of the reasons...
 
Avery. Maybe tie in some braces from the bottom back of the hitch and go forward to the frame a couple feet. Thats kind of how my old AG hitch was mounted in my truck.

Or you could always go for one of the hitchs like I have on my company truck. The Brute 2 is an awesome hitch. and it moves and comes out too.
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I too like 5th wheels but my K10 is going to be my new work truck when it gets running again and its just going to sit to damn high for regular 5th wheel trailer.

Im not an enormous fan of ball hitchs either. Between the trailers my dad and me have, trailers I borrow or pull for friends I have 1 7/8s, 2 inch, 2 5/16s balls. It just gets to be a pain really.

Once I start to accumulate the 3 trailers I would really like to have Im going this route...

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Thanks to some help from a friend here's what we ended up with, I think it turned out really nice...
Even though it's a small touch I have to say flush mounting the plug for the trailer connector adds a nice touch. :)

The new hitch is rated at 1k/10k and 1,200/12k with weight distribution.

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That should be just fine. I wanted a stout rear frame section on my K5. I cut off the rear section of the frame that rolls down for the bumper bracket so it was flush to the tail gate surface. So the frame was a "C" shape looking straight rear to front now. I measured the inside dimention top to bottom of the frame. It was something like 4 1/4, It's been a while so I don't remember spicifics. I bought the nearest size square tube I could find. It is 4 1/2 sq. X 3/8 wall thickness. I milled down 1/8 on bolt sides of the tube at each end and slid it into the frame flush to the tailgate surface.

Then I welded it all in. I also made gussets that welded inside the frame and to the cross member on the front side of the tube. I cut two oval holes to access the inside of the tube and milled two square holes for trailer hitch tube. I still need to slide tube in and weld it in but not until I make a tube bumper for it. The tube bumper will be bolted to the 3/8 thick cross member with drilled & tapped holes since it's plenty thick enough to handle it and I can back it up with nuts from the inside of the tube too since I have access to the inside of the tube. I also welded 3/8 square plate inside the tube ends before I welded it into the frame, so there is plenty of steel thickness to bolt from the side too.


Should I post pics??
 
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