78Suburban said:
Here's what I found using the ilustrious search button. Any other parts I need to look for? Is it easy to find extra Master Cylinder lids at the parts store, and do they come with a gasket? I don't have an NPT tap I don't think, just the regular SAE kind, can I buy pipe thread taps individually? What is "tygon tubing"? Anybody got any links to illustrated instucitons so I can see what some of these fittings look like?
I swear I've seen a website on making one of these before.
Yes, you can get taps individually. I just bought a bung at the hardware store and welded it on, but I get stupid with the MIG
Tygon sounds like a brand name of plastic. I bought the clear plastic tubing my local hardware store had, works fine.
You can generally get new covers for the metal masters that come stock; I've not found extra covers for the P30 master I'm using. I just used a flat piece of 1/4" or so plate and some foam rubber at the local hardware store.
You worry about stuff way, WAAAY too much. It's easy:
Garden sprayer, small one (~1 gallon) is fine. You can clean it out and use it to put gear oil into your pumpkin too
Take off the spray wand, put on the plastic tubing. This may take some fiddling and a hoseclamp or something, but all you want it to do is pump and hold pressure, doesn't have to be fancy or fireproof like fuel lines
Make some kind of bung on the flat steel plate for the tubing to connect to, and put something like rubber or cork or something underneat the plate, so that you can get a good seal onto the master.
A pressure gauge is nice, but with a small sprayer, you'd hafta really CRANK on it like 20 or 30 times to get too much pressure.
So, pump it up so you get pressure on the master and you don't hear hissing.
I usually pump it up between wheels, but to answer your question, you can prolly get two wheels' worth of bleeding between pumps.
I also bleed the he!! out of mine, to keep the lines clean and get old fluid out. I have a peanut butter jar, 40oz, that I use to capture the fluid on the far end. Same drill as manual bleeding, start at rear right, rear left, then front right, front left.
Basically, you want to pressurize the system, and blow all the bubbles out so you only have fluid from the master, all the way to the back. Using the pressure system, you don't have to dink with the pedal, just pressurize, crack, wait until you get solid fluid, then tighten, and go around all four.
Takes less time to do then it did for me to type this. Try it -- it's really much easier than it sounds and you're stressing too much. If *I* can figure it out, anybody can.
-- A
