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Brake Bleeding Question

carpeonnel

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 12, 2005
Posts
1,178
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Location
Sylvester, Georgia
Bleeding the brakes on my 89 K5 today and can't get them right. Put in a disc converted 14bff and a d44 but I can't seem to get a hard pedal. Gravity bleed them first and then started from the furthest corner and worked my way forward. Still no hard pedal. I had this problem before with my 12b and 10b, so I don't think it's the booster cuz I replaced it. Any ideas?
 
Are the all the pads new too? I've done a couple 4 wheel disc conversions in the past where the pedal felt semi spongy until the pads seated.

Did you go from front to back during bleeding to let the proportioning valve to work properly?
 
the screws on the 14b are on top of the calipers. New calipers, new pads, new everything. No, I opened all 4 corners up and let it gravity bleed first. Once I got flow to all 4 corners I worked my way from the back to the front with my buddy pumping up the pedal with the truck off
 
Go around and tap on all the brake lines to dislodge any bubbles and bleed some more. If you have enough brake to stop the rig then drive it around the block a few times and then rebleed.

This was a kit you put on? Whose kit? Did it specify to do anything to the proportioning valve while bleeding?
 
they're superlift stainless steel brake lines. The inline proportioning valve I put on the rear is a wilwood, winwood (something like that) and I don't recall any special instructions with it. Once I get my crossover kit from Sky in and have my steering working I'll try driving it around the block. I think it's got enough pedal to stop but it's just not in my comfort zone if you know what I mean.
 
I have that Wilwood Adj Prop Valve on my rear too. I'm 1 ton and 4 wheel disc though. I wonder if it will do anything to help your brake peddle issue cuz its purpose is to restrict the flow of fluid. If you don't have enough fluid going there- or air in the lines then how is a further restriction going to help? In your case I wonder if a 2lbs residual valve might help matters.

I also had problems when I was 3/4 ton. Got the brakes set up as best as I could and left it at that till I went 1 ton. I did end up swapping to a 1 ton MC cuz I couldn't get a good peddle with the stock mc.

There is something you could try. Might burn up your front brakes though so you have to watch it and adjust a little at a time. Under the dash where the brake peddle rod goes thru the firewall you can turn that rod out. Maybe try .5 turn out and see what happens. If you turn it out too much is when the fronts will start to get eaten away.
 

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