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Brake Bleeding Question

Operator238

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So I am not a stranger to bleeding brakes...but only on disc brakes. I obviously have rear drums on this truck.

I have changed the front brake lines and calipers out. I didn't lose much fluid (never took the cap off the master during the process- so it probably was vacuum locked). Can I get away with just bleeding the front brakes? or do I need to do all of them. I plan on moving to the back of my truck and doing the lift and cleaning painting the rear axle....but I would like to move the car and orient it different in my garage.

I imagine when I do the rear, its the same process as disc brakes?
 
So I am not a stranger to bleeding brakes...but only on disc brakes. I obviously have rear drums on this truck.

I have changed the front brake lines and calipers out. I didn't lose much fluid (never took the cap off the master during the process- so it probably was vacuum locked). Can I get away with just bleeding the front brakes? or do I need to do all of them. I plan on moving to the back of my truck and doing the lift and cleaning painting the rear axle....but I would like to move the car and orient it different in my garage.

I imagine when I do the rear, its the same process as disc brakes?
Should be fine. The front and rear circuits are separated
 
Yep, just bleed the fronts.
Do you still have the combo valve in place?
 
I would just crack the bleeders and let them gravity bleed a bit and see how the pedal feels. If you open the bleeder and push the pedal it’s going to be like a line blew and probably shift the valve so only the rears work.
 
Napa sells these brake bleeder hoses made by Evercraft that work real good, and they are cheap. All you got to do is open the bleeder screw, and attach the one-way check valve side the the bleeder screw. Then start pumping. It only take one person to use these things. I have a couple of those brake bleeder hoses, and have used them several times. They work real good. You should ignore anything I have to say.
 

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