Will a booster that I have from a 1990 Suburban 2wd 3/4 ton fit/replace the bad one in my 1973 Blazer?
CK5
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Brake Booster swap
- Thread starter KeyBlazer
- Start date
No replies, but my research suggests that the part numbers are the same so it should fit!
I will update with the results....
I will update with the results....
Probably, yes. Depends on what master cylinder the trucks have ... it's easy enough to try it (well, except two of the nuts on the booster are a PITA to get to... I seem to recall one of the studs spinning loose) ... but if you leave the master plumbed, it's not like you have to bleed the brakes or anything.
Anyway, testfit the booster to the master first, as that's the only point of issue.
IIRC, later boosters use metric nuts on the two studs on the front and earlier ones use SAE, so watch for that.
-- A
Anyway, testfit the booster to the master first, as that's the only point of issue.
IIRC, later boosters use metric nuts on the two studs on the front and earlier ones use SAE, so watch for that.
-- A
mudboggink5
1/2 ton status
If so could you post some pics of the swap, i will be replaceing my booster soon, and pics would help thanks. Also what are the symptoms of a brake booster going bad.
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I took the whole assembly off the Suburban a couple of days ago, and I will take some pics of the instal.
Yes, the booster nuts were 15mm on the Suburban.
The blazer booster is getting clanged cos the PO said it maybe bad, and the thing just wont stop... you push the pedal and it slows slowly!
Yes, the booster nuts were 15mm on the Suburban.
The blazer booster is getting clanged cos the PO said it maybe bad, and the thing just wont stop... you push the pedal and it slows slowly!
Bad booster will manifest itself as a REALLY hard pedal, as the booster is just power assist, so if it's bad the brake pedal will feel like it does with the engine off.
If the pedal moves okay, just too far, you should be looking at the hydraulic system ... well, assuming you've check the pads and shoes and adjusted the rear brakes.
-- A
Ok,
I take your point.
I took a good look at it today and drove it.
The brakes are bad.
The pedal feels good, but the truck just wont stop.
If you stand on the pedal with both feet the rear pass side will just about lock.
I bled the system again, but it was the same.
Any ideas?
I take your point.
I took a good look at it today and drove it.
The brakes are bad.
The pedal feels good, but the truck just wont stop.
If you stand on the pedal with both feet the rear pass side will just about lock.
I bled the system again, but it was the same.
Any ideas?
Well, first things first ... check pads and shoes for thickness.
Check rotors and drums for generally being round and flat where appropriate.
Do the rear brake adjustment -- the star adjusters -- as without it the whole system is bunged up.
After that, I would put truck up on stands under the axles, and have somebody whack the brake pedal with the thing in gear, just idling. This lets you watch which corner locks and which free-wheels.
I would suspect that the calipers are frozen. Their piston can rust shut or get so scored or the like that they won't come out all the way ... maybe they work okay with new (thick) pads, but once the pads start to wear the pistons won't travel the entire distance.
Since something like 70% of your braking is done up front, start there. Calipers for a D44 / 10b are cheap, often like $15 or 20 each exchanged. Make sure the brake hose and banjo bolt you have will fit the new caliper, as there is some variation over the years.
The rears are driven by the wheel cylinders, and they too rust shut and won't push properly. They're like $10 a pop.
After that I'd suspect the master, but the way you're describing one wheel locking and not the rest makes me suspect the hydraulics on the corners. Also, my experience is that the calipers and wheel cylinders wear out before the master, but ymmv.
Since you're pulling the calipers off anyway to get the pads out and check the rotors, look at the pistons, and if their seal is at all worrisome ... replace 'em.
HTH.
-- A
