Brake/clutch bleed newbie

[GMC5.3]

Hey guys

So lately after driving my 72 for awhile its seems to be harder to get into 2nd gear so I figured I should go ahead and change the fluid to start off with. Only problem is that I've never messed with bleeding brakes or clutches.

From what i have researched the clutch and brake fluid are pretty much the same thing, would you happen to know of any good videos or links that show how to bleed both the brakes and clutch?

I got a quote from Brakes plus for 39.99 a piece for the clutch and brake flush being that I don't really know what I'm doing, or if anyone may be willing to help out I'd pay for that help as well. I'm in the Denver / Green Valley Ranch area.

 

[dremu]

I *thought* hydro clutches were a later thing, but I'm a slushbox man, so I could be wrong. Point being that if you don't have a hydraulic clutch, your tranny is doing something else.

Anyway, bleeding brakes I know all about. I'd swing by and show you if it wasn't such a commute It's easy enough to do yourself, if messy and unpleasant. You'll find as many ways to do it as people you ask. After doing manual bleeding (never a helper when I need one), gravity bleeding (boooring), pressure bleeding (did I mention messy?), I find doing it with the hand vacuum pump is relatively tidy, simple, and quick.

You'll note I keep whining about mess. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (picks up water), slimy as hell, and eats paint, so you want to be careful sloshing the stuff about.

You can get by with the Harbor Freight pump ( http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-69328.html ), though I find they wear out every coupla years. Buying a Mityvac or other brand name tool would be less spendy in the long run.

The how is pretty easy; set up the hoses, crack the farthest bleeder (right rear), and draw fluid into the plastic jug until you see clean fluid (much lighter in color.) Be sure to keep the reservoir filled. Then do the other corners in order of closeness to the master (left rear, right front, and finally left front.)

Hate to say it, but a Chilton's or Hayne's service manual is worth the $15 or whatever for these sorts of tasks, covers them in more detail. I've been working on my trucks a looong time, and I still have the books out in the shop and use 'em now and again.

-- A

 

[paratrooper307]

You probably have a mechanical clutch unless someone's upgraded it. Your problem is more likely clutch or linkage issues if it hasn't been upgraded.

The previous advice is good. I bought a pressure bleeder with adaptors for my cars, and really like it. You pump it up to about 15-20 psi, crack the bleeder valves, and the pressure pushes the old fluid out, and replaces it with clean fluid. It goes for about 60 bucks and I figure it will be worth the time I save and ease of use. The hand vacuum pumps work, but I found them to be much slower. One-way bleeder screws also do the trick.

 

[Fordum]

Another thing to think about, something seems to have changed in Master cylinders in the past 20 years or so. I used to do a LOT of brake bleeding in the late 60s and early 70s. I cannot ever remember replacing a master cylinder soon after.
Nowadays, if you do the standard method where you bottom out the MC while someone closes the bleeder, its almost a lock that you will have MC problems soon after. Dirt, crud, rust or corrosion builds up in the bore where the plunger normally does not go.
When you bottom it out, it the seals in the plunger get damaged.

Maybe in the old days, we did more bleeding and replacing of wheel cylinders, along with adjusting of the brakes to get a full pedal back, so more of the bores got used.

Anyway, pressure bleeding, vacuum bleeding, and even gravity bleeding don't involve bottoming the MC.

 

[GMC5.3]

Thanks for all the advice and insight, I'm definitely thinking about ordering a chiltons or service manual, for those of you guys in Colorado or in general I guess, are you running and special manual tranny fluid, figured I may

 

[JoshHefnerX]

You probably have a mechanical linkage to the clutch. If the clutch isn't releasing completely it may be a bit tough going into gear.