Brake Fluid/SS hoses

[dhcomp]

Ok, so 94 K1500 blazer.

When i sit at a stoplight, the pedal receeds as i hold it, where if i keep the pedal in one positon, the truck starts to roll after 10 or 15 seconds, requiring me to push it down farther.

Before i start replacing components, do you guys think it would be worth checking/flushing the fluid?

Its been around 4 year/52k since the fluid was changed.

ALso, i vaugely remember some trick to check if the fluid is contaminated....where you put a drop in water or something. Can someone please describe this?

Also, if i do flush/get the fluid flushed, i was thinking about replacing the rubber hoses with SS braided ones to try and firm up the pedal a little.

God forbid i try and get rid of the charcteristic chevy squishy pedal....just wouldn't mind firming it up a touch.

Think the ss lines are worth it?
Thanks!

 

[trailblazr81]

braided steel lines will firm up your pedal. Tho in your case I would check th master cylinder and booster. Check your fluid level. I had a similar problem and it was the master cylinder. It could be leaking, letting fluid past the piston. Or maybe theres a small hole in the booster allowing air through. Also check for leaking cyl in rear. If everything visually looks ok try bleeding them, but there seems to be something else wrong.

 

[79k20350]

it sound like you got air in your lines....

 

[goldwing2000]

Either air in the lines or a bad seal.

I'd lean towards the bad seal. Air in the lines makes it squishy but it generally doesn't cause the pedal to have a continuous fall. Bad booster should actually cause the pedal to rise as you lose vacuum. Any leak in the system (caliper, w/c, m/c, line connections) would cause the pedal to fall. If the level is low, it's an external leak. If the level isn't low, it's a leak between chambers on the m/c.

 

[dhcomp]

Ok, damn. The whole brake system was overhauled by midas a 52k ago, when i didn't know better. And now i guess the cheap MC they used is catching up with me. I wish i wasn't too intimated by brake hydralics to change it out myself.....

 

[Leper]

Steady pressure on a pedal that makes it go to the floor, usually indicates a bad MC.

 

[dhcomp]

Ok, so im am now strongly considering tackleing this myself

Is it worth bleeding the brakes first, in hopes this solves it, or save my time and just replace the MC and bleed after that?

Who can reccomend where i can order stainless hoses? I'd like to order those, the MC, and whatever bleeding supplies i need from teh same place if possible.

In terms of bleeding, i might have a helper, but want to get all the "1 man bleeding" systems i might need if i have to do it alone. Do you guys prefer the check valve on the bleed screw style, the brake system pressurizer deals, or what? maybe speed bleeder valves? I've never done this, so any advice, or links to advice would be greatly appreciated.

Also, i have the ABS on my truck, but it wasn't working right, so i disconnected/reconnected the power so it has a trouble code and no longer functions. Does the ABS system significantly complicate the bleeding process to where i should disconnect it completely during this work? It kinda seems like i might be creating a liability nightmare by doing that if i got in an accident.

Any other tips? Comments?

Thanks guys! I really appreciate your support/motivation/help!

 

[trailblazr81]

I got my one man bleeder kit from Autozone. Just some hose, a plastic "catch can" a short piece of hose and a hand vacuum pump. Works pretty good and makes life easier. Dont forget to bench bleed the M/C!! Are you stock height or lifted. A few lift companies sell braided lines for different lift amounts. Luckilly nearby I have a parts store that just has brake stuff so I can get quality parts pretty easily.

 

[dhcomp]

I'm stock height, not getting lifted anytime soon, so i just need stock hoses.

 

[dhcomp]

Ok. Update....sorta
First, i feel like i should appologize, cause i always ask questions, and never update on what i end up doing. Normally, its because i havent' done anything....i tend to put things off with school and all

So, in trying to get rid of the indimidation factor, i was reading the repair manual. On bleeding, it said that if air gets in teh ABS, you need a scan tool to bleed it. If i replace the master cylinder, and maybe teh flex lines, is there any chance i can get air into the ABS?

Basically, im just nervous i might get 1/2 way through this project, and end up with a problem i can't solve and a truck i can't drive to a shop....

THanks guys! Your awesome!

 

[goldwing2000]

As long as you properly bench bleed the M/C, you should be ok.

Flex lines won't let any air into the ABS HCU.