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Brake Issue/ Low Pedal

GalDemSuga

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Nov 2, 2008
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Folks

I recently ditched the over priced and PITA ABS brake on the 95 Yukon. I rerouted the lines using a tripple female coupler from NAPA. I had to cut off some of the factory brake line fittings and replace them with some 5/16 by 1/4 fittings to make it all work. Initially I kept the stock master cyclinder but the pedal was too soft, so I replaced that with one from an older model non-abs chevy truck with a 1.18 bore to help me get more pressure. Even after the new master cyclinder the pedal is still low. The truck stops but with the pedal barely off the floor:doah:. I could use any tips to help firm it up.

see pics below

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was this the big abs box style with 2 lines in and like 4-5 out with 1 looping around and back in ?

if so then you also removed the rear prop valve so the pedal will be funny.

and all the factory coils in the lines need to be turned 90* to NOT let air trap in the tops of the coils.
 
I assume you bled the rest of the system after swapping parts over right? That era truck is notorious for a "soft" pedal to begin with, so a mucho-bleeding session is always required once you get into them. I like to do a round (3-4 per wheel) with the engine off, then go back around at least once with it running. Obviously always keep the master full...
 
The ABS box had two lines in from the MC and three lines out (1 to each front wheels and 1 to the rear wheels) The pedal was just as funny with ABS in place and I had several codes. The pump was bad and so were the wheel sensors, hence the decision to go to standard brakes. I bleed the system and replaced all fluid but still low pedal.

The two front lines were connected into one using that brass "T" and then into the MC and the rear was placed directly into the MC.

was this the big abs box style with 2 lines in and like 4-5 out with 1 looping around and back in ?

if so then you also removed the rear prop valve so the pedal will be funny.

and all the factory coils in the lines need to be turned 90* to NOT let air trap in the tops of the coils.
 
will it pump up and hold pressure with the engine off? Could be the booster.
 
It would pump up to 3/4 pedal with engine off and hold pressure but soft when engine running. Wouldnt a bad booster mean hard pedal?

Actually I can't remember right now. Brain fart for sure, I guess we'll have to wait for someone else to chime in:whistle: My bad
 
OK, here is some information to maybe help. Not super familiar with that setup, so you are going to have to pick and choose what fits.

First, if you have a spongy pedal with the engine off, you said you didn't, but I want to be sure and throw this in.
That always indicates air in the system, or a rubber line in really bad shape. Don't think either one is your problem, but it may pop up while you are working on the problem.

You said you went with a different MC with a 1-1/8 bore. Don't know offhand if that is larger or smaller.
Here is how it works.
Smaller bore, more pressure on the brakes, but more travel to work them.
If you have lots of travel, you usually go bigger for more volume, and let the booster make up the pressure.

Also, disk brakes require different MCs than drum brakes due to different volume requirements.
So, you have three types of MCs in general.

Four wheel drum, front wheel disk rear wheel drum, and four wheel disk.

They will interchange, but only the correct one will give good service.

However, there is one other possibility, that is often overlooked, because it is so uncommon.
But, it fits your problem.
There are two rods associated with your MC system. The rod from the brake pedal to the booster, and the rod from the booster to the MC.

If either rod is the wrong length, you will have pedal problems.

Somewhere, somehow, I have seen a booster to MC rod that was adjustable. You loosened a locknut, and screwed the two pieces in or out and then tightened the locknut.
In most cases, the rod from the pedal to the booster is attached to the booster, but where it hooks to the pedal is often adjustable.
Either in length, or where it hooks to the pedal. The farther away from the pivot point, the farther the rod will move per pedal movement.

The rod between the booster and MC, needs to be just short enough so that the MC returns all the way back when the pedal is released. But no shorter.
If the MC does not return all the way, you will have all kinds of problems with dragging brakes, things like that.
But, if the rod has to move a distance before it hits the MC, that is wasted pedal travel.

You might unbolt the MC, put a long rod of putty on the end of the rod and carefully bolt the MC back or just hold it up to the mount.

Then move it back and see how much the putty was compressed.

If its smushed all the way down to the rod, then you are OK. If there is a 1/4 inch or more putty remaining, then you may need to find a different rod or an adjustable one.

If you have a gap, for a temporary test, do not leave it this way, you could fold up some paper and put in the hole in the MC where rod goes and see if that makes a difference.
Don't drive it that way, its gonna self adjust as the paper wears, and is not safe.

Just some ideas, but its 3:00 in the morning, so don't expect much.........
 
One other thing, and I'm headed to bed.

If you have rear drums, then they have a huge effect on pedal height. If they are even a little out of adjustment, you will have a low pedal.
The farther the wheel cylinder has to push the shoes before they hit the drums, the farther your pedal goes before you feel any braking.
 
It would pump up to 3/4 pedal with engine off and hold pressure but soft when engine running. Wouldnt a bad booster mean hard pedal?
Yep, bad booster is hard pedal. Soft pedal is MC.
 
There should be a slight amount of clearance between the master cylinder push rod and the seat where it sits in the piston on the master--otherwise once the brake fkuid expands after some hard braking,the brakes will stay applied and drag,or even lock up...far as I know GM only used 2 different depth "seats" in the pistom at the rear of the master cyl.a "deep" one,and a shallow...you would know right away if you tried using a "deep" master on a boister set up for the "shallow" one,you'd have a lot of free play in the pedal before feeling any contact or resistance--there should be maybe 1/8" of free play at the pedal..

I have little experience with anti-lock brakes,so I dont know if "deleting" the ABS by simply using compnents off an earlier truck without it will work OK or not..if you deleted the combination valve with the brake light sensor,that can cause some troubles with the rear brakes locking up..
 
Got some sleep, so I'm skipping along on a couple more cylinders.

The deep seat, shallow seat MCs were for no-booster and booster apps.
The deep seat was used so the pushrod could not fall out when the brake pedal came all the way back with no booster.
With a booster, the pushrod is trapped between the MC and the booster so it can't fall out.
Why they went with a shallow hole instead of just making the pushrod the correct length and using one MC for both, I have no idea.

But, I have seen shims and spacers between the MC and the booster used to correct pushrod problems, and a lot of the custom brake people use adjustable pushrods.

Also, many of the factory brake pedals came with two holes in the shaft that were used for booster, non-booster situations, and if you hook the rod to the wrong hole, it will give problems.

I remember some articles about adjusting that and the inside pushrod somewhere.
I'll see if I can find a link.
 
Sup Fordum

Its drums in the rear and the shoes are very close to the drum. The 1.18 bore on the MC is smaller than the standard 1.25 that came with the truck. I went lower for more pressure. I wished I could have gotten one even smaller but I wont know where to find such a MC.

I will check to see if the pedal itself is ajustable because the booster sure isnt.

One other thing, and I'm headed to bed.

If you have rear drums, then they have a huge effect on pedal height. If they are even a little out of adjustment, you will have a low pedal.
The farther the wheel cylinder has to push the shoes before they hit the drums, the farther your pedal goes before you feel any braking.
 
Removing the ABS control module and the pump nullified its involvement in my braking completely. I have no lockup issues and the system functions better in my opinion now but the low pedal I'd like to correct.

There should be a slight amount of clearance between the master cylinder push rod and the seat where it sits in the piston on the master--otherwise once the brake fkuid expands after some hard braking,the brakes will stay applied and drag,or even lock up...far as I know GM only used 2 different depth "seats" in the pistom at the rear of the master cyl.a "deep" one,and a shallow...you would know right away if you tried using a "deep" master on a boister set up for the "shallow" one,you'd have a lot of free play in the pedal before feeling any contact or resistance--there should be maybe 1/8" of free play at the pedal..

I have little experience with anti-lock brakes,so I dont know if "deleting" the ABS by simply using compnents off an earlier truck without it will work OK or not..if you deleted the combination valve with the brake light sensor,that can cause some troubles with the rear brakes locking up..
 
Just looked under dash and the pedal isnt adjustable. Gonna look around for another MC option. I also like the idea of using shims to lenghten the booster pushrod. I will have the system vaccum bled and see if that helps before moving to shims.

Just looked up that troubleshooting chart in FORDUMS link and it sugests that "Small bore master cylinder requires longer pedal travel to apply brakes" "Replace with larger bore master cylinder". Now I'm really confused!
 
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Just took stock of the situation again and these are the findings:

1. With truck off, depressing the pedal shows normal functionality. The pedal travels about 0.25 to 0.5 inches before resistance is felt.

2. With truck running the pedal travels over 1.5 inches before resistance is felt, so braking occurs at about 0.75 inches above the floor.
 
Ok, now I'm a little confused. With the engine not running, its a straight shot from the pedal to the MC.
All the booster can do is decrease felt pedal pressure by helping you push the MC. It can't actually change the point where the pressure builds up, so it must be masking the feel.
But, I'm not sure exactly what we are seeing here.

I don't know how much you know about hydraulics, so if I am "talking down" forgive me, but I'm trying to bypass a lot of give and take by throwing in everything.

First, assume the brake system is perfect, no air, no weak hoses, no leaky MC.
For all intents and purposes you can consider the fluid in the system to be a steel rod.
Any movement of the MC, results in the same movement at the other end adjusted for the ratio.
Here is how it works:
None of these numbers are correct, because its actually the surface area, but don't mind that. The principle is the same.

If you have a 2 inch bore MC, and a 2 inch bore slave cylinder, then if you push the MC 2 inches with a pressure of 2 pounds, then the slave will move 2 inches and exert a force of 2 pounds.

If you have 1 inch MC, and the 2 inch slave, then a 2 inch push of 2 pounds will move the slave 1 inch with a force of 4 pounds.

It works exactly like a lever. This is how hydraulics works. Your 20 ton bottle jack has a large slave cylinder, the ram, and a tiny MC, the little rod worked by the handle.
Each time you push the rod a long distance, the ram moves only a tiny amount, but with great force.

If you have a 1 inch MC, and a 1000 inch slave, pushing the MC 1 inch with 1 pound of force, will push the slave with 1000 pounds of force but only move it 1 thousandth of an inch.

Remember, the fluid in a brake system does not compress. If you had all steel lines, and the brake cylinders were welded so they could not move, then you could stand on the brake pedal, and it would feel like it was welded too.

To apply the brakes on your truck, you first need fluid volume to move the cylinders out until the shoes or pads touch the moving parts.
Disks are simple clamping devices, so they need lots of force. This is why a disk brake piston is so large.
With a big piston and a small MC, you get a lot of force. But, very little movement because the MC does not put out enough volume with its small size to move the big piston.
But, thats OK, because disks don't retract much, so they don't have far to go.

Modern drums are self actuating.
They do not require as much pressure. When you press the pedal, the shoes move out until they touch the drum.
As soon as they do, the friction begins to try to rotate them. When they rotate slightly, it causes them to jam in the drum.
The more friction, the harder they jam. Thus they use the wheel's force against it to help with the braking.
So, those cylinders can be much smaller than the disks.

But, they retract a lot, and the pedal has to travel farther to move them out until the shoes touch.
This is why the rear adjustment is so important to pedal height.

Now, when you are using non-power brakes, you often have to go to a smaller bore MC so as to get more pressure at the brakes and cut down on pedal force. But, since you are moving less fluid per inch of travel, your pedal will move farther to extend the pistons far enough to make contact.

With a power booster, you can increase the size of the bore, to move more fluid. It means you have to apply more force to the MC to do the same amount of braking, but the pedal does not have to move as far.
But, you do not feel more force, because the booster is doing all the heavy lifting.

This is why, if you go to Rockauto, you will see that the really big bore MCs are for hydroboost units.
Lots of help.

Now, lets see what happens when the shoes and pads are in contact. At this point in theory, the pedal would quit moving.
But, the rubber hoses will expand some, the pad material will compress on the front, and the shoes on the back brakes are only touching slightly.
So, you still have pedal travel and this is why you can control braking, instead of them just locking up instantly.

As you continue to press harder, the braking force increases.

In your case, the booster must be fairly sensitive, so its masking the first part of the force when you press the pedal.
This should not be part of the problem.
The only way your pedal can move as far as it is, is either because something in the system is calling for a lot of fluid, or you have air in the system somewhere.
Air will compress, and let the pedal move as the bubble gets smaller and smaller under pressure.

I have a sneaking suspicion that the problem is in your antilock system............
Yeah, I know its gone, but that is still where the problem is if I am right.

Remember, the front disks take a lot of fluid, due to their size, but they don't actually draw that much, because they have to move very little.
Its the rear brakes that suck up the volume, because they have to move out a lot.
Adjusting the rears right up against the drums, barely touching will help, but there is something else.
Car makers have had this problem for a while. A small MC will work on the front, because there you need pressure, not volume.
But, you need a larger one for the rear since the pressure is not as great, but it needs more volume.

See the problem they get when you have both types on the car?

Some MC actually have two different bore sizes in them. One for the disk, and one for the drum.
But, others do that and/or another way.

They put a low pressure check valve on the rear drums. It lets the shoes retract a little way, then blocks the fluid so they stay right up next to the drums.
That way, you don't need much volume to move them back out.

If I am right, your abs system had one built in. Probably not working. With the abs out, you have no valve.
They sell them online, it is certainly worth a try. You have to get the pressure right, you don't want the rear brakes dragging, but most of them are adjustable.

I will check around.

Fart, this darn thing has run on forever.......again. Sorry about that.

Other than the brakes, how you been doing? As you can see, there is nothing wrong with my hands.........
 
I'm good buddy. I will bleed the hell outta those brakes and see what gives, if no improvement, I'll go the opposite route and opt for a larger bore MC.
 
I'm good buddy. I will bleed the hell outta those brakes and see what gives, if no improvement, I'll go the opposite route and opt for a larger bore MC.

....check valve.

Follow your rear brakes all the way back up to the MC. If you don't find a check valve, I would start with that.

Basically fordums post boiled down to "your abs may or may not have had a built in check valve, its worth a shot to take a look."

Definitely easier/cheaper than the master cylinder.
 

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