Heya!
First, if you've never made a double flare, watch this quick video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Irmh7B7OnHQ
Obviously, ignore that if you know how to make a double flare.
If you don't have the tool, don't be quick to order a cheap one... It will break, and you'll be pissed that the job has ground to a halt until you order a new one and send that one back. I end up doing a lot of work at 11pm when no local places are open, so when a critical tool like that breaks, I'm screwed.
I recommend "borrowing" one from autozone (ask for the loaner tool, give them "deposit" money, they give you a filthy tool, you bring it back when you're done or you break it and get your cash back). I did that after my Amazon flare tool stripped out and started making crooked flares. Then the Autozone yoke also stripped out, and I was able to run down and swap it. The replacement kit was much higher quality and survived my abuse for the rest of the job, so if you feel like the tool they hand you feels cheap and junky, it probably is, and you might ask if they have any better ones. Also, when getting a loaner, be sure to check that the dies are in the box, and that the pins are straight. One flaring tool kit I got had a bent pin, which would make crooked flares, and when I tried to gently straighten it, I broke it right off. Check the tool before you leave the store.
CuPro-Nickel
It's pricey compared to regular old steel, but I love this stuff.
It's strong enough for brake hydraulic service, but it bends easy enough by hand without kinking. Flaring is way easier, too. And the best thing...it will never rust. Though it does oxidize and it won't be shiny forever.
Possible downside...I attempted to take a rear CUPro line off that I put on 6 months ago, and couldn't, ended up backing off before I stripped the fitting. I think I may have over-tightened it when I put it in, and I'll probably have to cut it off and re-flare when I finally replace the rubber line it's connected to. I probably also overtightened all the ones I just did, but I have my fingers crossed that they're fine.
You can bend the stuff by hand. You can make nice clean sweeps, or just stuff it in and not care. If you use a tubing bender, it will come out nicer, but the stuff is so easy to bend, I stopped bothering contorting myself under the truck to use a bender. I end up sticking something round under where I want the bend, and then pulling the tubing to form around it. Most of my lines came out great, except the most visible ones at the master cylinder, of course.
You can buy the line wherever you can find it, but the ones I bought are here:
1/4":
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00652ZTXU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3/16 for the rear's:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00651OAVS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1/4 fittings:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006HHT182/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3/16 fittings:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006HHWBTI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
On my '01 Tahoe, I used (2) 25' rolls of 1/4". Not 50', but the entire first 25' roll was used, then more than half of the second roll, with some unfortunate waste from overmeasuring.
I also had to re-use the fittings at the master cylinder and ABS module, don't know if they were metric or some GM "screw-you backyard guys" size, but they weren't in bad shape, and took 1/4" tube and flare, so it worked out fine. Just remember not to destroy them on removal with vise-grips, etc. I used new brass fittings to meet the rubber line at each wheel and the rear pumpkin.
A great thing about the 25' roll and it's flexibility is that I was able to make continuous runs from each wheel to the ABS module, then from the ABS module to the master cylinder; no splicing or unions. It was just a real nightmare measuring out the exact length, unrolling it, and trying to weave it through without kinking it somewhere.
Experience shows that in those tight places, using steel, or the parts-store pre-flared lines, I'd have had to use unions. Which is not terrible, but still another potential leak or failure.
Best of luck! It's a crap job on a modern truck, was a little (just a little) easier on my 80's trucks. I think it's worth the higher price of this material to never have to go through that again, or pay $900 to a shop to do it every few years.
