Brake Noises

[DK5]

How do I get rid of them?

I have the annoying squeaking when pushing the brake petal. They work ok although I may consider upgrading them to today's standards in the near future. Cross drilled rotors? Rear disc conversion??

Another annoying noise is the whistle noise when pushing the petal.

Its annoying enough that I'm considering replacing the whole system, even though they work fine

Help me out, brotherhood

 

[diesel4me]

Pads squeal for many reasons---
-no disc brake quiet" put on the pads when installed,or silencer shims if they came with them--the shim type often dissapear eventually and let the pad vibrate against the caliper and squeal...loose caliper mounting hardwarwe,worn pin bushings and rotors needung turning,and the hardness and co,position of the pads themselves are other causes..
The "expensive" pads are often the ones that will squeal the worst,but last longest..the harder material they have are prone to transmitting the noises beter..--the finish on the rotors is important,ones that are rough or out of true can make the pads squeal,and if not turned correctly,"threads" left in the surface by the lathe can cause grabby and squealy brakes too..

If the "other" whistle you mention when depressing the pedal comes from inside the cab under the dash,its likely the little spiral nylon bushing on the pedal pivot is worn out ,or needs some type of lube,I have used silicone spray on a few and silenced them,but replacing the bushing is what gives the best results,more "permanent" anyway...the power booster (if so equipped) could be making a whistle in the diaphram in it leaks also..

The older I get,the less "noises" bother me--as long as I know I have brake lining left ,I just ignore squeals,and other "non life threarening" noises...as long as I know the wheels aren't going to come off or something,I balk at fixing things rthat are not broken..annyoing yes,but not broken!...

 

[DK5]

Pads squeal for many reasons---
-no disc brake quiet" put on the pads when installed,or silencer shims if they came with them--the shim type often dissapear eventually and let the pad vibrate against the caliper and squeal...loose caliper mounting hardwarwe,worn pin bushings and rotors needung turning,and the hardness and co,position of the pads themselves are other causes..
The "expensive" pads are often the ones that will squeal the worst,but last longest..the harder material they have are prone to transmitting the noises beter..--the finish on the rotors is important,ones that are rough or out of true can make the pads squeal,and if not turned correctly,"threads" left in the surface by the lathe can cause grabby and squealy brakes too..

If the "other" whistle you mention when depressing the pedal comes from inside the cab under the dash,its likely the little spiral nylon bushing on the pedal pivot is worn out ,or needs some type of lube,I have used silicone spray on a few and silenced them,but replacing the bushing is what gives the best results,more "permanent" anyway...the power booster (if so equipped) could be making a whistle in the diaphram in it leaks also..

So tear down the calipers and see if anything is worn out? Disc Brake Quiet? Maybe I can put some of that on it and reinstall. Replacing any worn out parts that I find.

The other whistle, I don't think is coming from the petal itself, but maybe the power booster I dunno where or what that is.
The noise echo's outside. Everyone can hear it. Its like a high pitched whistle noise. My mother's saturn ion does the same thing. Maybe with higher mileage its a common problem?

 

[diesel4me]

Its hard for me to tell from here......cant hear what its doing without being there...
A power brake booster with a leak in the diaphram usually makes a sucktion sound under the dash when you step on and hold the brake pedal down,and the engine usually stumbles or idles rough,might want to stall too,due to the vaccum leak..
I doubt you'd hear any noise from under the hood or standing nearby,unless a vacuum hose had a slight leak or crack--again,one with that big a leak should affect the engine idle quality...

I would say take off the wheels and see how much pad is left on the front brakes,if they still look meaty,and you feel like going further,take the calipers off,and put more disc brake goop on the metal backing on the pads and reinstall them...I have cheated and used a few layers of duct tape when I had no goop or pad shims,and it worked well--for awhile anyway,its not a permanent fix,but then,even the right stuff dont always last that long either..

Many pads have a lot of metallic particles in them,they are the noisiest ones..some squeal no matter what you do with them..I tend to run the cheap organic pads in my antiques because I dont drive the far,fast,or that many miles per year--and thats all they had back when they were new anyway!..my old van woth manual brakes would barely stop when I put Mettalic high dollar pads on it--to get enough pedal pressure I was standing up off the seat on long hills,and I couldn't even lock up the front wheels...
I wotked at a parts store at that time,and when the Bendix rep came in one day I asked why their "best" pats sucked,and squealed--he said "of you have no power brakes,only use organic pads--they mettalic ones need power assust for good performance..so he had me swap the ones I put on for organics,and instantly I could lock the fronts up without pushing very hard on the pedal--he claimed any older GM with 11 inch or bigger rotors dont really need mettalic pads,its the cars and trucks with smaller discs that need the extra heat resustance that do best with mettalic ones...mettalic pads also eat the rotors up faster too...

I dont know much about those fancy drilled rotors,other than a pair a friend put on an old Nove he converted to disc brakes made a "swooshing" noise when the brakes were applied,and the pads wore down fairly quikly ,I suspect they act like a cheese grater to the pads,every time you step on the brakes..but they do stop faster!.