Very glad to hear everyone is getting it done. Keep on keeping on guys.
CK5
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Brake pedal pushes back??????
- Thread starter K85 Octane
- Start date
To clarify. The backs are working, just not great. The leaverite will be removed from the rear line and rears bled after a short wheeling trip.
The front check valve was broken inside. The small plastic piston had grooved itself into the side of the valve body. 
So, the fronts will lock up but the rears are still useless. For now, it's good enough for some fun.
Later Thursday I'll try to find a female-female connector to eliminate the rear check valve. Only problem, I've eliminated it once before already. Kinda just hoping at this point, with the fronts now working properly, the master will pressurize the rears properly now.
So, the fronts will lock up but the rears are still useless. For now, it's good enough for some fun. Later Thursday I'll try to find a female-female connector to eliminate the rear check valve. Only problem, I've eliminated it once before already. Kinda just hoping at this point, with the fronts now working properly, the master will pressurize the rears properly now.
Actually
Aaahahahahaha
I don't need anything from the store. I can easily gut the inside of the check valve and use it as a connector!!
Huh Chris! Dammit, we're all too tired to think straight lol
Aaahahahahaha
I don't need anything from the store. I can easily gut the inside of the check valve and use it as a connector!!
Huh Chris! Dammit, we're all too tired to think straight lol
I have a drill motor and bits if the pieces don't come out easily.
Sweet
Tomorrow will be a better day. A day full of kickin ass
WOOT
Tomorrow will be a better day. A day full of kickin ass
WOOT
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Hooray!
y5mgisi
1 ton status
The aggravating part is we all should have known. What's the one thing you had that other people don't? A check valve.
And unfortunately it was the "brake specialist" shop that put them on in the first place. Not sure how it would feel if the damn valve wasn't broken inside. The valve going to the rear is good, as I've already checked the inside a couple weeks ago. Oh well, works good for now.
First time at Moab, first day....Moab Rim, Hell's Revenge, Esculator, and Hell's Gate are done
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Awesome!
I know this is an old thread, but did you ever fully straighten out these brakes?
They are better but not what I was expecting. If I did it again I wouldn't do disc and spend my money on other things.
And for sure it was the check valves that were causing most of your problem?
Sept 2014 removed the broken front check valve and braking improved. Was able to lock up front wheels on concrete. Wheeling was much better.
Jun 2015 removed working rear check valve and bled brakes. Braking did not improve and I might have lost a little front braking power.
Sept 2015 bled all four brakes like a mad man, a whole bunch. Braking did not improve. Pedal feel still sucks.
Given up, just using it as is. Have to shift into neutral sometimes to keep from driving through the brakes during steep decent
Jun 2015 removed working rear check valve and bled brakes. Braking did not improve and I might have lost a little front braking power.
Sept 2015 bled all four brakes like a mad man, a whole bunch. Braking did not improve. Pedal feel still sucks.
Given up, just using it as is. Have to shift into neutral sometimes to keep from driving through the brakes during steep decent
I bought a 2005 Silverado 2500 rear (aam 10.5) w/ 2 piston calipers and e-brake. After doing some math, the Front d60 calipers are within 10% of the piston area of the Silverado fronts, and the Silverado rears are within 4% of the old 3/4ton calipers that everyone's using. I also found some articles about being able to put a gmt800 mc into a gmt400 truck and you've already shown that a gmt400 will fit into the squarebodies. (with your Tahoe mc swap)
So I wonder if putting one of the gmt800 mc's into your square body will do the trick. I believe I found a braking schematic that shows the only valving in the lines is part of the abs system so I'm wondering if the piston bores being disk/disk may match up better w/ your brakes and give you a firm pedal instead of trying to use the drum rear master cylinder.
I'm a few months away from actually doing the swap in my truck but I may give that a shot myself when the time comes.
So I wonder if putting one of the gmt800 mc's into your square body will do the trick. I believe I found a braking schematic that shows the only valving in the lines is part of the abs system so I'm wondering if the piston bores being disk/disk may match up better w/ your brakes and give you a firm pedal instead of trying to use the drum rear master cylinder.
I'm a few months away from actually doing the swap in my truck but I may give that a shot myself when the time comes.
I'm actually using the small 1/2 ton calipers in the rear. The extra small ones, which I guess there are two 1/2 ton sizes, then one 3/4 ton size. Mine are the smallest ones used on a 4x4 truck. Just letting you know. 
