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Brake Pressure

Snowman1000

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jan 28, 2007
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Location
Freeland Michigan
Alright I just replaced the wheel cylinders and brake line from the Master Cylinder back to the rears. I have been bleeding the brakes for about a half an hour and I am barely getting a trickle out of the bleeders is there any faster ways of doing this than two people and cracking the bleeders.
 
You could try speed bleeders or power bleeding. But first, did you "bench bleed" the MC after the lines were off it?
 
Bench bleed probally not what is this bench bleeding right now I have both bleeders cracked open and im waiting to see what happens
 
MC's require bench bleeding, the MC should have came w/ instructions to do this. Since you already have it in the truck , You can do it there. Take the lines off, get some fittings to go into the MC & run a hose from those fittings to the MC resivoir. Pump MC until there is no air bumbles coming from the MC resivior. That is how you bench bleed.
 
boz42 said:
MC's require bench bleeding, the MC should have came w/ instructions to do this. Since you already have it in the truck , You can do it there. Take the lines off, get some fittings to go into the MC & run a hose from those fittings to the MC resivoir. Pump MC until there is no air bumbles coming from the MC resivior. That is how you bench bleed.

this is what I use: http://www.apexperformance.net/cartgenie/prodInfo.asp?pid=1028&cid=8
 
I didnt replace the Mc sorry about any miscommunication. I mean now I have enough pressure to stop the truck but not alot and the brake light is still on.
 
If your brake light is on I think it is a problem with you proportioning valve. It must haved slid to the one side. Did you push on the pedal at all while the rears were disconected? That will make the piston move. I have no idea how you get it to go back but someone else might post on how to do it.
 
The brakes seem pretty good now but the brake light has been on for 6 months or so now and would always turn off when you would push the brakes I thought perhaps they would need a bledding to get the light to go off but I dont know Its a 75 so there is no computer and I only see 1 wire going to the proportioning valve is the proportioning valve on the front of the truck just in front of the engine?? thats the only thing that I saw the whole way back.
 
Alright I talked with a mechanic buddy and Im going to bleed the brakes out at his house (hes got a power bleeder) But I was thinking that because my brake light came on before I did this work on the brakes that maybe the master cylinder is bad is there really anyway to test a mc.
 
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