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Brake problem input

dyeager535

dyeager535

1 ton status
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Left front brake locks up fairly quickly (off pavement), steering wheel pulls left when brakes are hit pretty hard.

Hoses are new, master is relatively new, don't think pads are real old, bled brakes awhile back. Heard some squealing from the front left for a bit that sounded like a wear indicator, but it went away. Definitely went away when I applied the brakes.

My thought is that either the left caliper is not operating properly, or the right caliper isn't doing any work.

The calipers are probably 20+ years old (unfortunately can't find a receipt), for the price I think getting new ones (when I have the money to throw at it, not a priority immediately) isn't a terrible idea.

I suppose I could jack the front end up and see if the brakes seem to apply evenly. I'll need to inspect the pads regardless. I need the rotors to last.
 
It's pretty easy to verify a lot of this for free. Check the caliper slides and lube as needed. With a caliper off, you should be able to press the pedal very easily, so only go down a little bit. Then push the piston back in with caliper tool or c-clamp. If it's not smooth and easy, the caliper is bad (or you have a restricted hose). You get free brake pad inspection in the process. Also doesn't hurt to do some bleeding. Needs to be done from time to time.

Rebuilding a caliper is possible and not real hard. Finding the right kit can be very hard, which is part of why I turn in my lifetime warrantied calipers every so many years. Shoot, they would not warranty nearly as many if they would just use decent bleeder screws that don't snap off. I sometimes replace the new ones with good ones before installation.
 
dyeager535 said:
The calipers are probably 20+ years old (unfortunately can't find a receipt), for the price I think getting new ones (when I have the money to throw at it, not a priority immediately) isn't a terrible idea.
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I do not what vehicle you are working on, but with all my square bodies I have been rebuilding my own calipers since the early 80's. I can rebuild my square body calipers work better a than brand new set out of the box.
 
1-ton said:
I do not what vehicle you are working on, but with all my square bodies I have been rebuilding my own calipers since the early 80's. I can rebuild my square body calipers work better a than brand new set out of the box.
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Is that basically a matter of replacing the couple of seals? Do you also hone the bore?

I'm not opposed to repair ($3 parts kit looks like) but the lifetime easy-swap is also appealing.
 
dyeager535 said:
Is that basically a matter of replacing the couple of seals? Do you also hone the bore?

I'm not opposed to repair ($3 parts kit looks like) but the lifetime easy-swap is also appealing.
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I use emery cloth sand the piston and bore as smooth as a babies @SS then use caliper assembly lube.
 
Every time the pads get renewed the hardware should too. For our Chevy's that means the slider bushings and o rings, with siligyde lubricant.
I also wire brush the crap out anywhere the caliper meets the the bracket. Inspect pin, and replace as needed. Chase threads for pins in bracket, you rust belt folks should never seize.
 
Wes Harden said:
Every time the pads get renewed the hardware should too. For our Chevy's that means the slider bushings and o rings, with siligyde lubricant.
I also wire brush the crap out anywhere the caliper meets the the bracket. Inspect pin, and replace as needed. Chase threads for pins in bracket, you rust belt folks should never seize.
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I have only owned 1-ton square bodies that do not have slider pins, slider pin o-rings, and slider pin dust boots on the calipers . The 1-ton calipers just ride on the spindle bracket.
 
Yes they have a wedge with a flat spring and locking bolt for wedge. They still need the wire brush treatment. Most of us don't have 1 ton brakes. Many never think about the bushings, at 30yrs old now something to be aware of.
 
I probably should go through and clean all that up. Sitting is probably harder on things than actually being used, so I wouldn't be surprised if things are pretty bad in mine.

Plan is to get the wheels off and do a good inspection of everything. Clean it all up and see if anything obvious is wrong.
 
You know your truck loves you when it helps you change it's brakes.

full


Yep, that happened. Brake pad fell off at some point where it was parked. Front left, so the one that was squeaking. I'm not excited to dig into that side.

That pad looks like it's seen hard use, which probably explains the failure. Kind of hoping whatever extra braking was happening on the left was due to some failure on that side, and that I don't have a problem on both sides. :surepal:
 
Doesn't matter if one side is still good, you replace parts and do all the same work on both sides at the same time.
 
kennyw said:
Doesn't matter if one side is still good, you replace parts and do all the same work on both sides at the same time.
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Of course on the wear stuff, even the calipers likely, but I just modified the new rotors, and the lug studs I used are no longer made. If the rotor is destroyed thats not such a big deal, the problem is the studs. Should be able to push them out, but would really rather not have to deal with them. Don't recall ever pushing out lug studs I intended to reuse. Just depends what the damage is on how far I have to go. I'm not optimistic on the rotor though.
 
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Maybe the rotor can be resurfaced, and it won't require pulling the studs.
 
dyeager535 said:
Got to pull the studs to get the rotor off the hub no?
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You will need to pull them. If you use a press or a brass drift, there should be little to no damage on the studs. I would recommend using a brass drift and hammer to knock them out and a press to reinstall.

You can update your signature to point to the CK5 service manuals now too...
 
A machine shop with a large brake lathe should be able to turn them with hubs. If it went metal to metal chances are it won't clean up in spec and a new rotor will be needed.
Pics of rotor ? Who's pads? Brand and part number if possible.
 
Wes Harden said:
A machine shop with a large brake lathe should be able to turn them with hubs. If it went metal to metal chances are it won't clean up in spec and a new rotor will be needed.
Pics of rotor ? Who's pads? Brand and part number if possible.
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I'll have to take the wheels off yet. This is unfortunately a low priority right now, compared to everything else going on. It's so easy to inspect this it's frustrating not having the time to do so.

I have no recollection about the pads. I'm going to check my receipts and email to see where they came from, if I have anything. Appear to be bonded (is anything riveted anymore?) but does not appear this pad separated from the backer. Something must have happened, the backer SHOULD have "ears" to locate them, right?

My links updated to reflect the manuals here.
 
I get it I haven't had time to get mine inspected since Moab. Life is interesting. You had your big hunting trip possibly a small rock got in there and damaged that pad. No none of the pads I can think of are riveted.
 
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