The picture makes it look like the friction material broke free of the backing plate. If the steel is still on there, that's an interesting scenario. Silly question: are you sure it came off of the truck? Maybe somebody is pranking you?
CK5
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Brake problem input
- Thread starter dyeager535
- Start date
I mean it's possible, but now that I think about it, the last time I started the truck the pedal went to the floor but "pumped up" right away. Immediately after that happened is when I saw the pad laying there.
I still had to move the truck and use the brakes, I didn't hear anything abnormal, and while very low speed and minimal brake apply, it didn't feel any different. All the symptoms together indicate something has been going on and it makes sense that the pad is either the culprit or evidence of whatever has been going on.
sounds like that broken pad did come from your truck If it was still sorts in place till last move you may not have a damaged rotor.
Pretty sure this has separated. Never seen one that has, the bumps being impressions of the metal backer it was bonded to? These pads are pretty tough, couldn't scratch it with what I had on hand, and they must be semi-metallic as a magnet sticks to both sides of this piece.
Supposed to help the pad from slipping of the backing plate, would be my thoughts
Hows the rotor look
Really hard to tell with the stock wheels. I can only see the outer maybe 1" of the rotor. Lot of rust, but it sits so that's to be expected I suppose. No clearly obvious destruction, but that doesn't mean much just seeing one inch of one side.
I'm going to try hard to get that side up and have the wheel off soon. I'm curious, and I'd like to have decent brakes.
I'm going to try hard to get that side up and have the wheel off soon. I'm curious, and I'd like to have decent brakes.
First post you made, made me think the right side was not grabbing... May want to have a hard look there also.
So...yeah:
Based on my receipts these were chain autoparts store pieces (lifetime warranty lol).
As much as this thing sits, and as bad as the condensation can be, maybe this is to be expected? For the last three years it's been sitting for probably 1053 of the total 1095 days. My suspicion is this is more likely just cheap, garbage pads, but I do wonder if maybe they were wet, somehow absorbed water, then froze? To me that seems the most likely cause based on the way they are breaking apart yet still (except the one) generally intact. It was definitely cold (for here, low 20's) the first few days I was using the thing, maybe that was it.
No damage to the rotors, and I'm guessing the squeaking I heard was the left side pad separating.
I couldn't turn the right side tire/wheel, so had to beat that caliper free from it's mount. As I stated in the beginning, the brakes have pulled left for quite a while. The mounting pins on the right side had very small shiny spots, so I don't think it was moving much. I was able to compress the piston into the bore as easily as the left side, and if the pictures aren't clear, the pads were still plenty thick.
Got new pads, new hardware, and a caliper "rebuild kit" (the two seals) coming. I'm not going to do the caliper seals until/unless I can figure out the caliper is definitely the issue, but I won't take it off the jackstands until I've bled them thoroughly (again) and tried to make sure they are working evenly, as best I can before test driving. With so few miles I don't think the pads would have worn enough to show a bias to one side.
Based on my receipts these were chain autoparts store pieces (lifetime warranty lol).
As much as this thing sits, and as bad as the condensation can be, maybe this is to be expected? For the last three years it's been sitting for probably 1053 of the total 1095 days. My suspicion is this is more likely just cheap, garbage pads, but I do wonder if maybe they were wet, somehow absorbed water, then froze? To me that seems the most likely cause based on the way they are breaking apart yet still (except the one) generally intact. It was definitely cold (for here, low 20's) the first few days I was using the thing, maybe that was it.
No damage to the rotors, and I'm guessing the squeaking I heard was the left side pad separating.
I couldn't turn the right side tire/wheel, so had to beat that caliper free from it's mount. As I stated in the beginning, the brakes have pulled left for quite a while. The mounting pins on the right side had very small shiny spots, so I don't think it was moving much. I was able to compress the piston into the bore as easily as the left side, and if the pictures aren't clear, the pads were still plenty thick.
Got new pads, new hardware, and a caliper "rebuild kit" (the two seals) coming. I'm not going to do the caliper seals until/unless I can figure out the caliper is definitely the issue, but I won't take it off the jackstands until I've bled them thoroughly (again) and tried to make sure they are working evenly, as best I can before test driving. With so few miles I don't think the pads would have worn enough to show a bias to one side.
I have to say there is no replacement as good as asbestos. Depending on how old those pads are, they may from the trial and error replacement material era. Was some mighty poor samples of brake linings for a number of years.
If the piston pushed in with out much trouble, just do the pin bushings and o rings.
Always open the bleeder when compressing the piston, don't want to force nasty ass brake fluid though master.
Glad the rotors are good. Figured they had a good chance
If the piston pushed in with out much trouble, just do the pin bushings and o rings.
Always open the bleeder when compressing the piston, don't want to force nasty ass brake fluid though master.
Glad the rotors are good. Figured they had a good chance
I'll take a look at my receipt and see what the vintage is. Unfortunately I suspect they are newer than that.
Looking at cost, AutoZone and Schucks (O'Reilly's) both sell their lifetime pads for the same price, $35, while rockauto sells many name branded ones for about half that. I expect the chain stores calculate replacing cheap pads once before people lose their receipts, thus the price. Lol.
Rockauto better watch it though (and us consumers), even with the 5% off they always have, they were within $2 of me buying the components from the chain stores. At one point the $45 shipping charge was equal to the total of the items I was buying.
Looks like you might as well replace those pads while you're in there 
As for receipts, you've basically never needed them. I still get lifetime calipers from Autozone that I bought 20 years ago. It can take them a while to cross-reference, though...
As for receipts, you've basically never needed them. I still get lifetime calipers from Autozone that I bought 20 years ago. It can take them a while to cross-reference, though...
Have had good service from Power Stop brand. Several car trucks running those atm.
Think I but O'Reilly's best quality on the 01, was @ $60 a set, no complaints.
Think I but O'Reilly's best quality on the 01, was @ $60 a set, no complaints.
Pads look decent, will have to test them still, but went together without issue. If it still pulls I'll go back and try bleeding. As best I could tell they seem to both work and clamp the rotor.
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To me the glazing indicates constant pressure and that means either stuck calipers or plugged rubber hose.So...yeah:
Based on my receipts these were chain autoparts store pieces (lifetime warranty lol).
As much as this thing sits, and as bad as the condensation can be, maybe this is to be expected? For the last three years it's been sitting for probably 1053 of the total 1095 days. My suspicion is this is more likely just cheap, garbage pads, but I do wonder if maybe they were wet, somehow absorbed water, then froze? To me that seems the most likely cause based on the way they are breaking apart yet still (except the one) generally intact. It was definitely cold (for here, low 20's) the first few days I was using the thing, maybe that was it.
No damage to the rotors, and I'm guessing the squeaking I heard was the left side pad separating.
I couldn't turn the right side tire/wheel, so had to beat that caliper free from it's mount. As I stated in the beginning, the brakes have pulled left for quite a while. The mounting pins on the right side had very small shiny spots, so I don't think it was moving much. I was able to compress the piston into the bore as easily as the left side, and if the pictures aren't clear, the pads were still plenty thick.
Got new pads, new hardware, and a caliper "rebuild kit" (the two seals) coming. I'm not going to do the caliper seals until/unless I can figure out the caliper is definitely the issue, but I won't take it off the jackstands until I've bled them thoroughly (again) and tried to make sure they are working evenly, as best I can before test driving. With so few miles I don't think the pads would have worn enough to show a bias to one side.
Unless what I see is original finish and they were hardly used.
I do agree with Mike that some replacement materials were not the best and could be the culprit so, is that glazing the we see?
They are quite shiny. Is it possible the compound is just that bad?
One was definitely working as it would pull pretty good that direction, but you can see three of four pads, and they all look similar, so I don't know.
The caliper pins definitely had seen movement. Maybe these pads were just really, really bad? I don't recall when the pulling started, but these pads had been on there a long time, maybe they were bad from the get-go.
I still haven't had occasion to test the new pads out yet, but I plan to in the coming days.
One was definitely working as it would pull pretty good that direction, but you can see three of four pads, and they all look similar, so I don't know.
The caliper pins definitely had seen movement. Maybe these pads were just really, really bad? I don't recall when the pulling started, but these pads had been on there a long time, maybe they were bad from the get-go.
I still haven't had occasion to test the new pads out yet, but I plan to in the coming days.
If the pads are old say 97 through 2003-4 then the material could be at fault. For one pad to fail and the others be ok is odd, at least for materials failure.
One guess would be that the material can absorb moisture and sat through freeze/thaw cycles. But does it freeze much there? It kind of looks like some kind of metallic that's prone to rusting.
It absolutely went through a few freeze/thaw cycles this winter, but it's had a few in the past as well. This season was driving in 20* temps, then parking it for the night, and repeat, for a few days. Cold and wet enough that using the parking brake was a bad idea.
With braking being so poor even before this trip, IF the problem was pads, it was existent before this past trip and the pad falling apart.
Definitely metallic, magnet stuck to the material.
I'll have to look at the receipt for when I bought them. I don't think they are 2004 or older though.
With braking being so poor even before this trip, IF the problem was pads, it was existent before this past trip and the pad falling apart.
Definitely metallic, magnet stuck to the material.
I'll have to look at the receipt for when I bought them. I don't think they are 2004 or older though.
Finally got to take the truck out and run it. Doesn't pull anymore, so I assume the uneven braking was just due to the pads being in horrendous shape. Thankful that was it.
Of course, not to have me park and forget about it, one of the support cables snapped while I was standing on the tailgate. So that will need replaced, and the other isn't looking so good either. Oh, and the tailgate key switch failed.
Of course, not to have me park and forget about it, one of the support cables snapped while I was standing on the tailgate. So that will need replaced, and the other isn't looking so good either. Oh, and the tailgate key switch failed.
