brake pull

[wakeup]

Hello everyone, been a long time since I've been on, but in the past I've found this forum to be the best source of info for these trucks. And I'm know my question has been asked and answered before, but the solution to this problem seems to be different for everyone so I'm looking for some input, especially from the folks that have gone through the same thing before.

My truck pulls hard to the right wherever the brakes are applied. So far I've replaced (on both sides) the brake hoses, calipers, slide pins, and pads. This has made no notable difference. I've also replaced both tie Rod ends, rotors, and all four ball joints in the last 10k miles Or less. The only things I can think of now that might be causing this are spring/shackle bushings, the spring pack shifting while braking (but I don't think so) or maybe bump steer (also unlikely since I have the steering corrected well), or maybe something like tow being set to far out.

Any ideas?
Edit: This is an 84 K10 with six inch springs, and a raised steering arm, the steering components are all level.

 

[77k5boss]

i am also dealing with the same problem. i tried adjusting air pressure also to no avail. box and lines are also good and steering box brace installed

 

[metalneverdies]

Do you have standard push pull with a drop pitman?

Mine used to try to change lanes when I hit the brakes. With my lift and corrected steering the wheel goes to the left slightly on hard take off and to the right just slightly on hard braking. No where near as bad with frsh springs and bushings. The biggest help was my SS brake lines all the way around.

 

[wakeup]

Yes standard push pull steering, with a weld in brace on the frame. I'm looking a getting the ORD bolt in as well.

Never thought about upgrading to SS brake hoses, but I guess it couldn't hurt.

 

[metalneverdies]

Yes standard push pull steering, with a weld in brace on the frame. I'm looking a getting the ORD bolt in as well.

Never thought about upgrading to SS brake hoses, but I guess it couldn't hurt.

Well, I don't know how much of an improvement it would be compared to good new rubber ones.

But my old original seemed fine, until I replaced them when I did my lift. The brakes work and feel so much better. No more hard pulling to the right.

 

[ashman]

I see you've replaced a lot of the front brake components but no mention of checking the rears. I had a similar problem myself for awhile and I couldn't figure it out until I got a skid test inspection. turns out one of my rear brakes wasn't grabbing hardly at all.
I'd had a wheel cylinder leak and it had soaked the brake shoes.

something to look into...

 

[wakeup]

I see you've replaced a lot of the front brake components but no mention of checking the rears. I had a similar problem myself for awhile and I couldn't figure it out until I got a skid test inspection. turns out one of my rear brakes wasn't grabbing hardly at all.
I'd had a wheel cylinder leak and it had soaked the brake shoes.

something to look into...

That may be the case. I've never even opened them on this truck. Definitely checking them next.

By the way, how do you perform a skid test?

 

[Deuling]

Id check rears and make sure you are doing a propper bleed on the whole system.

 

[diesel4me]

I had a '79 C-10 that liked to pull to the right if you hit the brakes quickly,but didn't tend to so much if you applied them gently..

I replaced a lot of the brake parts a few months after I got it,it had a leaky rear wheel cylinder ,a caliper that was sticky,and it needed pads too,so I just did the 2 calipers,front hoses,rear hose,pads,shoes,and wheel cylinders,it was under 100 bucks then to do them all,so why not..it needed them anyway,and I assumed it might cure the pulling problem..

I left the rotors intact,they were not warped or scored and had lots of meat,so I did not change those..

The truck braked the exact same way after the pads and shoes wore in,much to my dismay..at first I thought it cured it...

I tried adjusting the rear shoes,bled them again,etc,to no avail..the only thing I noticed and changed that did make some improvement was to replace the drivers side steel brake line from the proportioning valve to the LF wheel...it had been replaced before by someone and they evidently bent it too much and it looked collapsed almost shut in one spot,in another it was flattened like it was crushed by a jack or hammer whack..

It helped it not swerve to badly to the right like it was doing,but it still did it to some degree..not enough for me to go have it aligned ,or replace the lower control arm bushings,the drivers side would sometimes "clunk" on a sharp turn if you hit a bump sometimes,but I dont see why it would pull to the right if the left lower control arm was moving...I ended up living with it,it was annoying,but not really "dangerous"..I got used to it,and was ready to counteract if I had to stomp on the brakes..

I dont think any of my GM 4x4's stopped in a perfect straight line really,they all had that little "swerve" when you put the brakes on quick..
Its probably just the way they are--one guy I know who did alignments said it was probably a lack of positive caster that does it..

 

[wakeup]

Thanks for the perspectives everyone. I know what you mean about these trucks always having a little "play" in the steering. The only one I've had that stopped in a straight line was a 90 3/4 ton diesel suburban. It was two wheel drive, and that hydro boost seemed like it worked perfectly.

I went to pull the rear drums on the k10 today, and both drums are rusted to the axle. I was able to get the shoes pulled in, and have the flange soaking in a penetrating lubricant now. I'll see what heating it up does if that doesn't work.

These drums have not been removed since I bought the truck in 2000. It's always been a mud truck only until I recently decided to start driving it and possibly restoring it, so there was no need for rear brakes, and I've never had any problems from the rear end. Guess that's what I get for abusing for ten years.

Edit: Any potential that I would damage the shaft or diff if I struck the center of that flange with a BFH? I'm thinking maybe that will pop it loose. I already had a few a whacks with a 2# sledge, thinking about using a full size next. (and I'm not concerned about the drum, once I get it off I'll probably replace it.)

 

[diesel4me]

Most mechanics beat on the drums to get them off with a BFH,it can crack or warp them though,but I suppose a drum is cheaper and easier to replace than an axle shaft,however I have yet to see an axle flange get bent by hammering on one--whacking a curb sideways after sliding on ice,yes!..I made one wobble badly after I had that happen,and it was not just the rim like I thought!..

Try using a hammer & chisel on the part of the drum right around the flange hub that sticks thru its center hole,an air chisel works best..this is where it sticks and needs to be expanded to come off,and prevents damage to the outer part of the drum where its ribbed by whaling on it with a hammer..if the shoes are tight against the drums you'll have to back them off some first..heat helps a lot if you have a torch,heat it around the center hole..