Brake rotor help

[lowlifeym]

Hey guys , new here , been lurking and reading for a while , lots of great info and material here , hope I can help in some things , unfortunately right now i'm the one needing the help .
Putting new manual hubs , rotors , calipers and pads on the front of my 80 k5 . Got the locking hubs out , calipers off and rotors are just sitting there . Am I right in assuming the hubs and rotors are joined together by the studs that are pressed in ? I PB blasted them and am going back out there right now to fight with them again . Any suggestions on how to get them apart at home tonight without a press ! I need the truck up and going by tomorrow , machine shops are few and far in between in this small town and my chances of getting it in to press them tomorrow early are slim to none . Also , are the wheel bearings part of the rotor and going to need pressing also ?
Thanks in advance .

 

[4xcrazy]

use a punch in the center of the stud, and a big hammer to smack them out the backside.

 

[4X4HIGH]

You need to remove the hub/rotor assembly from the axle then you drive the studs out to remove the rotor (a press is much better) then position the new rotor and drive the studs back in (once again a press is your friend) and now that they're mounted together the rotors need to be machined to be perpendicular to the centerline of the hub so that you don't have any brake vibrations. Once that's done then reassembly begins.

 

[MTBLAZER89]

You need to remove the hub/rotor assembly first. Inside the hub there are two big nuts with a lock ring between them. After you get those off you'll be able to get to the wheel bearings/races and wheel seal. The outer bearing will fall out after the hub is off, but the inner will be retained by the seal.

Here is a trick: After you remove the outer bearing slide the hub/rotor back on the spindle. Put one of the big nuts back on the spindle threads. Now pull straight out on the hub/rotor. When the inner bearing hits the nut it will stop and pop the wheel seal out nice and easy. You can remove the races with a brass drift if you are changing them.

You can remove all the wheel studs with a punch and a Hammer. I recommend getting new studs and having them pressed in. Most shops should be able to do it in less than an hour. Some people pound them back in, but I have never had much luck with that.


Once your rotors are back on, bearings repacked or replaced, and a new seal is installed you'll need a special socket to reinstall the lock nuts. Its a big 4 prong and can be found at most reputable parts stores for ~$15.

It looks like this

I don't recall the torques off hand, but you torque the inner nut while spinning the hub to 50 ft/lb. Then back it off 90* then retorque to ~35 ft/lb then back off 3/8 turn. Reinstall the locking ring (you may have to rotate the inner nut a small amount to get th hole to line up. Install the outer nut and torque to ~110 ft/lb.

Reinstall the locking hubs and calipers.

Here is an exploded view.

http://completeoffroad.com/images/tech/D60%20EXPLODED%20DIAGRAM.jpg

 

[lowlifeym]

Thanks guys , had the rotor and hub on the bench when I posted this , getting them off the truck wasn't the problem , seperating the 2 from each other was . I guess what I wanted to know before trying to get the studs pressed out was once I got those out , would I still be fighting with a hub that was pressed on to the rotor or would they just fall apart ?
Doesn't matter right now , got them apart . But now with the torque specs that MTBLAZER posted , I'm a little concerned . Instructions I had were to "tighten the first nut that seats on the inner bearing to 12 ft lb then loosen off just until barely tight" . No torque specs were found for the second nut at all so I tightened to 25 ft lb !
New locking hub instructions said that once the main hub body and large snap ring were in place , I should have a little "float" in the hub body , which I do . Do I need to go back and re-torque to 110ft lb on the second nut . First nut sounds like it may be in the ball park if I go by MTBLAZER's instructions and what I did .

 

[4X4HIGH]

MTBLAZER was correct on the torque specs. I would go back and torque the inner nut properly if you don't want a bearing failure.

 

[lowlifeym]

Thanks guys for all the help and quick replies , will do first thing in the morning .

You guys sure are quick on here !