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Brake system replacement

D

Damufuer

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This all started with a leaking master cylinder (which I replaced). Now I need to bleed the system but the bleeder screws are seized. Given that I’m just going to replace everything as the whole system is in rough shape; calipers, rotors, pads, brake lines. I started pricing calipers and everything I’ve seen so far has terrible reviews, without spending $500 on wilwoods does anyone have any recommendations or lessons learned from going through this?

1975 K5 blazer
 
1st If you have to get rebuilt calipers, get them from a local parts store/
2nd do not turn yours in for cores until the job is done and you have good calipers.

I am not a fan of most part store remanufactured calipers. My calipers are original 1977, but is a western truck.

If you want to attempt to open the bleeders. Buy a 6 point socket, box end, or flair nut wrench, apply a penetrate oil (wd40 is not a penetrate oil) tap on the caliper around the bleeder with a ball peen hammer. let it sit, spray tap sit, then try to loose the bleeder. If it brakes off, it then can extracted, and new bleeder screw can be installed.
 
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1977 CHEVROLET K10 SUBURBAN 5.7L 350cid V8 Caliper | Shop Now at RockAuto

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www.rockauto.com

Look here at the Dynamic Friction those are new manufacture, and they should fit your truck. The bleeder screw and possibly the brake hose connection might be different.
 
I am also going through the same process for an 89 jimmy, which has fxnl but slow feeling brakes (compared to rst tahoe brakes)
I just ordered rebuilt calipers… wish I read these posts first but easy to reorder - job isn’t done yet

Is it possible to get great performance braking power out stock brake systems with a rebuild for someone with a heavy foot…? or would the ability to stop on a dime really require from an upgrade to something like a Wilwood, to an upgrade w bigger wheels (16 or 17?), or even an axle upsize to accommodate even bigger brakes.

Planning to do an ORD custom suspension/steering 2inch lift w 33’s, stock 350(for now, but hopefully drop in a crate in the next phase of upgrades) for a fun Northeast year-round daily driver, not a rock crawler

My build page will be started soon for reference
 
If you stick close to the factory size tire you can have excellent stopping, with the factory system. Tires have an effect on braking, one brand/style can be better then another. New or rebuilt shouldn't make a difference in system performance. The new-rebuilt issue is quality of the rebuild.
Good functioning factory brakes can perform well with 33's. There will be some stopping distance added over stock size tires.
Bigger diameter tires will require better brakes. big diameter= larger radius= longer lever= more effort to slow and stop.
 
As Wes suggested, to save the most money try rock auto. You need to plan ahead and make sure you are getting the right parts because mail order is a pain. You really can save a ton when replacing an entire system like brakes. Things like rotors are often less than half price compared to the local parts store. I sometimes do get the calipers from Oreilly's because sending back cores in the mail is kind of a pain. Sometimes rock auto price for caliper + core charge is still cheaper. You don't need to upgrade to expensive Willwood to get good brakes, buy some nice pads and make sure everything is working properly.
 
Thank you Wes, exactly the info I was looking for and knew was out there! I was able to get one side’s bleeder out but not the other, even with a huge pair of vice grips. I may keep trying to soak it in penetrating oil over the next few days and see if that works.
 
Thank you!
Being new seeing the marketing and people overbuilding for specific purposes like rock crawling and gigantic wheels, it seems “upgrades” are needed, good to know that they are not
 
The braking system on a 75 is very simple, which makes it easy to work on and effective. You don't have to worry about ABS, sensors, hydroboost, and all the other things that tend to make the system expensive and complicated. Simple hydraulics...don't get too big with the tires, and get good pads and your brakes will work like they did when they were new....but remember that was 1975...they still won't work as well as a new truck, but pretty close, just adjust your proportioning valve and you'll be fine!
 
I'm not a fan of the reman calipers also. I went thru 5 boxes of NAPA premium calipers and each one has pitting on the piston.
 
Take this for what it's worth, 3 years ago I replaced everything you've mentioned. I got my wheel cylinders from Autozone, calipers from AutoZone (had to replace one the bleeder wouldn't stop leaking), rear shoes with hardware from AutoZone, rotors from Advance Auto, and ceramic pads from Advance as well. The truck stops. I put 500 miles on it before I blew it apart for the restoration. The brakes never left me hanging and the truck stopped better than any other square I've driven. Go with a local parts store and get the lifetime warranty stuff so you can swap no questions asked if you get junk. That's my vote.
 
Thanks all. As an update I was able to get both bleeder screws out with a fair amount work so decided to just keep these calipers. After getting it all back together I did run into a different issue that has perplexed me where it feels like I don’t have power brakes anymore. I can go into more details here or maybe I should post a new thread because the topic has changed? Not sure on the forums etiquette.
 
We can discuss it here. Tel about the pedal feel and how much travel you getting ?
 
Great. So to level set the things I replaced were the master cylinder, the two front bleeder screws, and the two front rubber brake lines (to steel braided). The brake booster was definitely working prior to this.

When I finished with everything the lines very clearly needed to be bled. Had that typical “spongy” feel. I did an initial bleed but was short on time and ran out of fluid but still thought I did a decent job. Spongy feel was gone but pedal was rock hard. I assumed I just needed to bleed it better so I bleed them again. Pedal felt a little less rock hard but still wasn’t right. I found a you tube video on how to test the booster and it appeared to pass the all. I know for certain it is getting vacuum and the valve is functioning correctly. So I then bleed them a 3rd time. Brakes are slightly better but still not right. I don’t really know how to explain it but it feels like I’m getting a little assist but if I have to really brake I’m double foot standing on the pedal.

I had something in my past, can’t really remember details, but I think I got an incorrect master cylinder for the application with too small a piston or something and my mind keeps going to that even though I’m fairly certain I’ve got the right one. Kinda lost, any help would be appreciated.
 
Do any of the brakes feel like they dragging more then the others ? Glazed hard linings can cause excessive pedal effort. New pads with the caliper work ?
Post up the part number on the master you bought.
 
Did you bleed the master cylinder separately from the rest of the system? (bench bleed)
 
I don’t really know what you mean by dragging or at least how I’d check that. I did not put new pads on which I’m happy to do but being that they were fine before I don’t think that’s it.

This is the master cylinder I got-

ACDelco Professional 18M1878 (19176488) Brake Master Cylinder Assembly​


I tried to find a part number stamped on the master cylinder in case they sent me the wrong one but nothing is stamped on it. On this number in some ink which doesn’t seem to mean much. 26850e1

I didn’t bench bleed it. I learned I was supposed to afterwards by researching. Wish I had but my understanding is it wouldn’t really cause the issue I’m having unless I read wrong.
 
That seems to be the correct part for your truck. Dragging as in partially applied. Have inspected the rear drum brakes ?
 
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