brakes!! hooolee crap........

[90BCk5]

alrighty, I got the new running gear in, 4 wheel discs and 39.5 swampers.....now im sure this has been written about before i just need some quik advice.... can i just swap in a 1 ton master cylinder into my blazer to acheive the braking power to stop this beast? or do i need to put the hole brake setup out of a 1 ton in there?? any help on what someone has done would be awesome !!

thanks !

 

[tRustyK5]

I did my rear disc's at the same time I was swapping the 6.2 diesel in my truck. The hydro-boost and matching one ton MC went in at the same time...

I can lock all four 39.5's at will, but the brakes aren't touchy/grabby like the one ton drums were. The rears lock up slightly before the fronts.

Rene

 

[90BCk5]

do you know if i have to use the hydroboost and MC out of the one ton? i read somewhere that i can just use the MC out of a 1ton and bolt it up to my 1/2 ton boost? any experience w/ this? or should i just go for the full swap? thanks!

 

[gravdigr]

The rears lock up slightly before the fronts.

Should get an adjustable proportioning valve to fix that. Front should always lock first. Rear brakes locking first can be very bad news in an emergency stop at speed (the rear end will come around on you). Of course if it's trail only it isn't that big a deal.

 

[RootBreaker]

I at first thought that I needed the adjustable prop valve but didnt...

now that my brakes are broken in im good to go....

anyhow...

my pedal is spongy too.. but i can lay into the brakes now without having the rear swing around me

 

[tRustyK5]

Should get an adjustable proportioning valve to fix that. Front should always lock first. Rear brakes locking first can be very bad news in an emergency stop at speed (the rear end will come around on you). Of course if it's trail only it isn't that big a deal.

Well, I'm talking about 1/2 second or so...it's really close to simultaneous. I have locked all 4 up in a panic stop twice since the disc swap and it stops very straight and pretty quick for a heavy truck. I find I can easily threshold brake, which is something i could never do with the old 14 bolt drums.

Rene

 

[BadDog]

Master cylinder is pretty much the same, it's the hydro boost you want for SERIOUS brake capability. Hydro boost on my truck will easily lock up all 4 42" TSLs on pavement and is also easily modulated.

I second the adjustable prop. Summit Racing has a Willwood unit for about $30 or so that is quite nice, that's what I've got on mine…

 

[Greg72]

Don't forget to check the simple things in your quest for better braking......

I drove mine for at least a year before my buddy noticed the collapsed vaccuum line between the manifold and the booster. The PO had used a piece of fuel line instead of vaccuum line and it was "sucked shut"...so I the brakes were only marginally effective.

After replacing that line, I could really stop well.....even with the 38's.


It's all a matter of degrees I'm sure. Hydro is still going to be better than a convetional brake setup, but a WORKING conventional system can still be pretty good.....just check the basics before you junk the whole thing and start over.

 

[K5MONSTERCHEV]

Hmm.........now you guys got me thinking... How much (est) did it cost to swap to hydro boost? I assume all the parts are easy to get. I have always wanted to put 1 ton MC and booster on there, now, maybe I should wait and just do hydro boost.

 

[dodgedude99]

i see hydroboosts all the time in the junkyard, the only thing that prevents me from pulling is the 1" of grease and sludge thats ususally covering everything.