3MAX
1/2 ton status
What do yall recommend with a roller cam?
CK5
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Break-in oil
- Thread starter 3MAX
- Start date
Technically I don't think it's needed on a roller but I used the amsoil break in additive with Kendall titanium oil (has zddp).
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
I was told that too by the shop that I had rebuild my Burbs and Avys engine, not technically needed, but doesn't hurt, can only be beneficial. Not sure what it was they gave me though, was just a small bottle, presuming a zinc additive of some sorts.
3MAX
1/2 ton status
I've been told the same thing about the zddp additive, that its not needed with a roller cam. What about the oil itself? I know not to use a synthetic, but heard different things about what weight to use. Was told that a straight 30 weight was best rather than a multi-viscosity. Thoughts?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
My engine builder made me use the valvoline vr1 racing oil for breakin because it has the additive. I've just kept on using it as well.
is this new pistons/rings, valvetrain as well?
I would use a conventional 5w30 for breakin on a roller engine. The rings (what type are they? cast iron/ moly/ chrome etc?) need a breakin on the cylinders as well as other moving parts...a quality 5w30 will provide the protection the engine needs and allow parts to conform to their surroundings.
Put a dab of engine assembly lube on the rocker tips and pushrod tips (rocker end) and dip all of the lifters in an oil bath upon assy.
Be sure to use an oil primer (the kind that will spin the oil pump) before firing the engine, and get timing as close as you can to 10* BTDC before cranking it up for the first time. Once it fires, confirm oil pressure is good at idle (40+ when cold), then go right up to ~2000 rpm ASAP and then keep it there a few minutes to allow oil to splash onto the cylinders for a bit, then you can bring it down to idle and check timing.
I would use a conventional 5w30 for breakin on a roller engine. The rings (what type are they? cast iron/ moly/ chrome etc?) need a breakin on the cylinders as well as other moving parts...a quality 5w30 will provide the protection the engine needs and allow parts to conform to their surroundings.
Put a dab of engine assembly lube on the rocker tips and pushrod tips (rocker end) and dip all of the lifters in an oil bath upon assy.
Be sure to use an oil primer (the kind that will spin the oil pump) before firing the engine, and get timing as close as you can to 10* BTDC before cranking it up for the first time. Once it fires, confirm oil pressure is good at idle (40+ when cold), then go right up to ~2000 rpm ASAP and then keep it there a few minutes to allow oil to splash onto the cylinders for a bit, then you can bring it down to idle and check timing.
3MAX
1/2 ton status
Thanks guys. This is a full rebuild with new pistons & rings as well as valve train. Nothing real fancy - Eagle 383 rotating assembly and Comp roller cam. I'm going with conventional oil and a zddp additive just for extra assurance.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
I've heard and read on using straight weight oils during break-in to keep the oil from changing too much while parts are wearing into where they are going to be and run.
Mainly straight 30wt. run it, break it in, then change it and filter out.
Mainly straight 30wt. run it, break it in, then change it and filter out.
I used to coat cam lobes with Sealed Power brand assembly lube they sold for just that purpose,the Speed-Pro cams came with a bottle of it...
I've also used stuff like STP or Motor-Medic as an assembly lube and I have not had any failures on the cam swaps I did on my older flat tappet engines...
I always ran Castrol GTX or Valvoline racing oil in most of my older engines,usually 20W-50 in summer ,and 10W-30 in winter...never did bother using SAE 30 to break in a cam,I dont see where it would make much difference really..if I had done rings too,I probably would have though..
Today what oil you use is more important on the flat tappet engines,seeing most brands deleted most of the zinc ZDDP additive needed to keep the lobes from dissapearing rapidly..some were reccomending diesel rated oils,but even some of those have reduced the zinc content a lot..
I've also used stuff like STP or Motor-Medic as an assembly lube and I have not had any failures on the cam swaps I did on my older flat tappet engines...
I always ran Castrol GTX or Valvoline racing oil in most of my older engines,usually 20W-50 in summer ,and 10W-30 in winter...never did bother using SAE 30 to break in a cam,I dont see where it would make much difference really..if I had done rings too,I probably would have though..
Today what oil you use is more important on the flat tappet engines,seeing most brands deleted most of the zinc ZDDP additive needed to keep the lobes from dissapearing rapidly..some were reccomending diesel rated oils,but even some of those have reduced the zinc content a lot..
Lucas break in oil. I dump a half bottle in with every oil change.
A full bottle for break in.
A full bottle for break in.
chicken joe
1/2 ton status
3 years ago I wiped out a cam on my brand new vw bus engine from using the wrong oil at first start up. When I called to complain they told me the oil I used was to good and technologically advanced for brake in. Old engines like these need thoes impurities for brake in that todays oil doesnt have.
It's not impurities, it's additives (like the ZDDP previously mentioned).
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Glad you listen.
My motor is glad too!
