What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Break-in question

Russell

Russell

3/4 ton status
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Jun 23, 2000
Posts
8,493
Reaction score
1,935
Location
Rocky View County, AB
Hey guys!

I'm hoping to get my 355 broken in this weekend, but I have a question. I've often heard that you should not break an engine in on headers, but the only exhaust setup that I've got is dual pipes with headers. I've heard that either the engine runs too hot, or it just wrecks the finish or something. Is it gonna be a problem if a break my engine in on headers, and true duals?

Also, what would you guys suggest for installing a harmonic balancer? I've heard not to pull it on with the crank bolt, and I cannot find a harmonic balancer installing tool for rent anywhere...
 
1. I don't think it will do any damage to the new engine to use the headers, what i have heard is that it will discolor the finish of a set of headers. If yours are just black steel than I wouldn't worry about it, a nice set of nickle plated edelbrocks or something and they might come out rainbow colored after the break in.:o

2. I've always used a bolt in the crank with a nut on the bolt thread and a big washer against the balancer. just tighten the nut and it sucks the balancer right on. I hae however broken the bolt once, but when it breaks it releases the pressure off the threads and the broken end threads right back out the crank. If there is a better way to getting a balancer on I'm sure someone will come along soon to tell us.:laugh:
 
Can't help on the balancer, borrowed my friends. I wouldn't do it, stripping the crank snout would suck. :)

Speaking from personal experience, if the headers are coated, you will likely hurt the coating. I fired mine up on manifolds but didn't run it long enough apparently. Put the headers on, fired it up, they got red hot, discolored, which I'm sure hurt the finish.

You can't find spare manifolds from anyone around you that you can borrow? I couldn't get one of the bolts in both the PS and DS manifolds I used, but it was such a short period of time, I didn't care, and they worked, I just didn't wait long enough.
 
RJF is right, the ceramic headers will be toast. Broke my engine in with the headers on. Those puppies got bright red and sure enough, screwed up the ceramic coating.

The nice glossy finish is now dull, but at least they aren't rusting, boy I learned my lesson on that one.

If you have time to order one, I am pretty sure Jeg's has a damper installation tool, not all that expensive. I have one and it works great.
 
My headers are bare because of this... i left the manifolds at the place we did the swap. The coating probably would have come off anyway after a year or two(150 bucks)
 
They make a tool just for installing a harmonic balancer so you don't rip the threads out of it.
 
Yeah, I know there is a tool, but I am unable to find one around here :confused:

I do have a set of manifolds & y-pipe, but not a spare muffler. I'd like a full exhaust setup so I can hear what the engine is doing (ticking, taping, eating cam lobes, etc ;) ) The headers are already colored a nice surface rust :) I think I'll run it with the headers on there just so I can be sure they are totally dry before I strip and re-coat them.

Another question -- Why do the headers get so hot during breakin, but no other time?
 
SierraClassic said:
Another question -- Why do the headers get so hot during breakin, but no other time?
Click to expand...

Thats a good question, Im wondering the same thing as I read this. I understand that as you break in new parts (rings and bearings) they will create friction which causes heat but ?????
 
This engine only got a cam upgrade, nothing more... It is pretty much brand new though. Very recent .030 overbore (still has crosshatching on the cylinder bores) I just put a bigger cam in it in prep for the EFI.
 
SierraClassic said:
This engine only got a cam upgrade, nothing more... It is pretty much brand new though. Very recent .030 overbore (still has crosshatching on the cylinder bores) I just put a bigger cam in it in prep for the EFI.
Click to expand...

In that case once you have the A/F mixture and timing adjusted your exhaust temps will be the same as ever.
 
I ain't touching that carb :P

The minute I am done breaking the engine in, that carb / intake manifold is coming off and the TPI is going on.
 
Forget about the pipes and muffler, just run it with the manifolds. You'll be able to hear whats going on. Loud yes, but you'll be able to hear.

This is exactly how I did mine.
 
I have heard your engine is getting extremely hot internally because everything is rapidly wearing into each other.
 
As far as a damper tool, I couldn'tfind one anywhere either. So I made one. This is much easier if you have a welder. I found a long (10") piece of threaded rod that fits into the crank and two nuts that fit the rod, and two big (1 1/16" I think nuts. Threaded one small nut on the end of the rod to its depth. Then forced that nut inside one of the bigger nuts and then welded the whole mess together. Then I hammered the other small nut into the big one and tacked it into place not on the rod. The big nuts just make it easier to turn and more area on the washer used to push against the damper. Confused yet? I sure am!! But it worked perfectly for me. Just make sure to thread the rod far into the crank as not to pull out the threads!
 
Hi All

Are you guys talking about when headers get cherry red during break in? If so, that's just the timing not being set correctly yet., and it's worse if the cam wasn't installed with the dots lining up per instructions. What's happening is combustion occuring in the header tube because the valves aren't opening & closing when they're supposed to be.

I'd get a degreed balancer if you haven't already, so when you set the timing you can read the scale, especially when you set the total timing, or you can use a vac guage if you don't want to spend the money.

Tom
 
what i heard for an engine break in is take it easy on it for 500 miles on plain oil then change the oil then again at 3000 with synthetic if you want. I did it with mine and it runs strong.
 
I plan to take it easy for the first two tanks of gas. I've got a 42 gallon tank, so I can probally go 400 miles or so on it, so I'll take it easy and go 800 miles before I give her a good workout.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom