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Breaking Front Axles (Need Help)

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01mudslinger

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GRETNA, VIRGINIA
It is a 88 Gmc Jimmy, Stock 350, 38" TSL's, 10 Bolt Front, Yukon Chromoly 4340's, Lockright, and Standard Warn Hubs.

I put the lockright in the front and ran the stock axles for a while before i broke one, Then i ordered the Chromoly Yukons and put them in. The first trip out i broke a stub shaft right at the splines in the lockout. I had a new one sent and i put them back in and I took out the locker, Been running for months now fine, no broke axles in front, Put locker back in this week and Saturday broke another stub shaft at the splines in the lockout. Wouldnt the axles be stronger than the lockout? What is causing it to break right in the splines of the lockout? My guess is the lockouts are bad and without the locker it was binding and just sent the power to the other axle and with the locker it has no where to go. Any Suggestions? Only thing i know to do is buy New Warn lockouts and give that a try. Please Help
 
how big of a tire are you running and what terrain. with the added stress of a locker + big tires+ rocks = broke stubbys.
 
My son broke dozens of axles in the same location as you with smaller tires. The axles are weak and small to put the strain of a locker on them. The lockouts only really become the weak link when you are running a D60 with the 35 spline outers. There is less lockout strength, because the axle shaft is bigger, and there is less room for lockout material.
 
Just re read you post. His axles broke at the locker, not so much at the lockout. Are you running auto lockers?
 
The tires are 38x12.50 Super Swamper Tsl's, Terrain is just mud and hills. The axles are the Yukon Chromoly 4340's. NOT STOCK AXLES. and the Locker is a LOCKRITE. The hubs are Warn Standards. It is breaking the axles in the lockout on the stubshaft where the splines are, not at the locker. I ran the stock axles for a while with no problem locked. Finally broke the short side but it was the inner axle not the stub shaft.
 
Hate to be the bearer of wasted money news but if your buying bling shafts for a d44 then its time to just get a d60. If your gonna break shafts either way why not just carry a bunch of spare stock shafts?
 
The Yukons are warrented so they will send me a replacement free of charge, no wasted money. Not everybody can afford 1 ton stuff, I know that is the answer to everything, but at this time i would just like some help to fix the current problem that i have.
 
Hey I've got a d44 I'm on the same cant afford one tons boat.

As far as your problems, Warn hubs are pretty strong. Yes I can understand being skeptical that the hubs are holding more pressure than the axle shaft. Try swapping on a set of stocker manual 10bolt lockouts and see if you break them before the axle.
 
honestly, i dont feel that 1 ton stuff is all that expensive

i live in CT

i bought a k30 actually in point pleasant, nj for 1400

had AAA ship it home

i lifted the truck, and used it, bought crossover for 350 scored a 2wd box for free

that was that, truck ran and drove, wheeled hard and never broke anything axle related

had an accident and totaled the body and frame, saved the axles and put em in my burb

the accident forced me to put wheel bearings and kingpin bushings and springs in to rebuild it and i picked up high steer for a good price

i have been running it like that for 6 months roughly, with no problems, stock shafts and lockouts, no locker, 4.56 gears

it might seem like alot of money, but i havent had any problems, i go wheeling at least once a month

my friend wanted one for his k5, he bought a dump truck dually with a dually front 60 on it, he stripped it and sold what parts were good, chopped up all the sheet metal, sold the windows and rims, sold the rear axle, brought the rest to the scrap yard, he saved all his receipts for cutting wheels and stuff, he rebuilt it with bearings and upper kingpin bushings, and he got crossover for 350 roughly, he got single wheel hubs from gm parts direct for like 350 or so, got u bolts, saved all his receipts

after all this and selling everything off the truck, installing it onto his, we added it up, and complete cost to put it on the truck was $200
 
its all about looking.. searching and finding that blown up 1 ton truck.. i am the one irishraptor is talking bot.. and yeah i cant believe i got a dana 60 in my truck for that cheap but i searched for about a year or 2..
 
01mudslinger said:
The Yukons are warrented so they will send me a replacement free of charge, no wasted money. Not everybody can afford 1 ton stuff, I know that is the answer to everything, but at this time i would just like some help to fix the current problem that i have.
Click to expand...
How many hours do you plan on spending changing axle shafts?
Shaft companies will only warranty parts so many times before they figure out theyre wasting $$.

Not to mention how much cash you will spen on just maintaining a 44 with 38's.......ball joints, shafts, u-joints.....


If you want to Quit breaking axles, then dont run a locker, or dont run anything bigger than a 35 inch tire.......even that is pushing the limmit.
 
For about a year I cornered the market on 10 bolt shafts (42s and a locker)... finally I got a 60 out of a cucv... I wound up buying a truck off Gov Liquidation for $900... I sold the scrap and the 14bolt out of it and wound up with about $400 in my 60. A stock 60 is 10x stonger than the blingest 1/2 ton axle anywhere... Most chromo shaft companys will not warranty 1/2 ton stuff on any tire over 35inches... hmmmm wonder why?

now when you start doing bling 60 math then it gets spendy... right now Im running full chromos with warn drive flanges and a full case detroit.
gabe
 
Are you making sure the little roller bearing inside the spindle (that the stub rides on) is in good shape? I've seen several stubs break and almost everyone had this bearing out of it.
 
i see this alot w/all the 3/4 ton axels running 42-44's, most people go back to an open diff! this is what makes me think a good limited slip is best bet up front,..slip b4 breaky!

i had a friend w/ external hub d44...he got a set of yukons...broke a stock axle, swapped in a yukon(1 yukon,1 stock)...broke the yukon....put the other yukon in, snapped it the next night, makes me wonder just how strong a yukon is, and how weak are stockers? i saw w/my own eyes a stocker stay together while a yukon on the other side snapped..not once, but twice!
 
Generally speaking, most of us think your exceeding the design limits of the 10bolt when running a 38" tire. Even if you drive carefully that is alot of tire/weight (on bearings, balljoints, brakes, r&p, etc.)for a 10bolt to handle. A Dana60 would make your life so much easier. I'm sure as someone mentioned, at some point they will molt likely void your warranty. Best to start saving for a front 60.
 
irishraptor87 said:
honestly, i dont feel that 1 ton stuff is all that expensive

i live in CT

i bought a k30 actually in point pleasant, nj for 1400

had AAA ship it home

i lifted the truck, and used it, bought crossover for 350 scored a 2wd box for free

that was that, truck ran and drove, wheeled hard and never broke anything axle related

had an accident and totaled the body and frame, saved the axles and put em in my burb

the accident forced me to put wheel bearings and kingpin bushings and springs in to rebuild it and i picked up high steer for a good price

i have been running it like that for 6 months roughly, with no problems, stock shafts and lockouts, no locker, 4.56 gears

it might seem like alot of money, but i havent had any problems, i go wheeling at least once a month

my friend wanted one for his k5, he bought a dump truck dually with a dually front 60 on it, he stripped it and sold what parts were good, chopped up all the sheet metal, sold the windows and rims, sold the rear axle, brought the rest to the scrap yard, he saved all his receipts for cutting wheels and stuff, he rebuilt it with bearings and upper kingpin bushings, and he got crossover for 350 roughly, he got single wheel hubs from gm parts direct for like 350 or so, got u bolts, saved all his receipts

after all this and selling everything off the truck, installing it onto his, we added it up, and complete cost to put it on the truck was $200
Click to expand...

Red 4spd longbed? Guys got a **** ton of CUCV stuff in his back yard?
 
Your talking big money anyways- either in time, or in parts. I just cant see breaking axles and removing it every time you wheel as being affordable (or enjoyable) in terms of time. Even if the parts are free, this is not something I would want to do more than... once. :)

You've reached the design limitations of a d44, thats just the plain and honest truth everyone is trying to tell you. If you dont want to believe it, thats up to you. Either drive smoother, or upgrade. Your still snapping your cromo shafts, and its because your still exceeding the design spec of the shafts.

D60's are costly. So is your time. Spend the money once, be done. Think of it as cheap insurance!
 
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