CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Broke grease zerk off in new joint. HELP!

Mudstud

1/2 ton status
Joined
May 29, 2001
Posts
1,475
Reaction score
1
Location
Memphis, TN
OK so I broke the freakin zerk off a brand new u-joint. Stripped two easy outs and twisted off one of those square concrete studs inside it. Could push it all the way thru so hopefully I can retrieve it. Anyhow, I got the damn drill out and drilled it out real thin trying not to go into the threads. I think I was successful in NOT damaging the threads. There remains a ‘thin’ piece of the zerk still in the hole though that no matter what I do will not chip out or screw out. WTF should I try next? It's slightly under the level of the joint housing. Maybe put a srew in there with some JB weld onit and twist it off after it dries? My luck I'd weld the screw to the new joint. Guess I could fill the hole with JB weld and redrill and tap it. Any last ditch ideas? This is holding up reassembly of my axle.

Prolly should retap the hole once I get it out. You guys know what tap I would use?
 
Mudstud said:
OK so I broke the freakin zerk off a brand new u-joint. Stripped two easy outs and twisted off one of those square concrete studs inside it. Could push it all the way thru so hopefully I can retrieve it. Anyhow, I got the damn drill out and drilled it out real thin trying not to go into the threads. I think I was successful in NOT damaging the threads. There remains a ‘thin’ piece of the zerk still in the hole though that no matter what I do will not chip out or screw out. WTF should I try next? It's slightly under the level of the joint housing. Maybe put a srew in there with some JB weld onit and twist it off after it dries? My luck I'd weld the screw to the new joint. Guess I could fill the hole with JB weld and redrill and tap it. Any last ditch ideas? This is holding up reassembly of my axle.

Prolly should retap the hole once I get it out. You guys know what tap I would use?

Go buy a new joint or get a press in zerk.

Dick
 
Press in zerk? Never heard of such an animal. Does a-zone carry them? It's a SPL55-4x Spicer joint- A $50 joint. Don't want to trash it.
 
Mudstud said:
Press in zerk? Never heard of such an animal. Does a-zone carry them? It's a SPL55-4x Spicer joint- A $50 joint. Don't want to trash it.

I dunno about A zone but Napa has them. They are in the same isle as the other zerx. They look the same but instead of threads they have a few rows of "barbs" that hold them in-place.

Did you try a pic to "back" the threads out of the joint? Sometimes a little patience goes along way. How did you break it in the first place, overtighten?

If it is drilled like you say you should be able fold the remaining portion of the threads in on them selves and get it to fall out.

Dick
 
sandawgk5 said:
Did you try a pic to "back" the threads out of the joint? Sometimes a little patience goes along way. How did you break it in the first place, overtighten?

If it is drilled like you say you should be able fold the remaining portion of the threads in on them selves and get it to fall out.

Dick

I didn't use a pic but thats what the easy out and the stud was suppusd to do. I'll certainly give it a try but it is in there good and tight. Having a hard time making it collapse in on itself cuz it's recessed below the surface of the joint. Thats what I was trying to achieve by drilling it out and hitting the edge with a punch. I broke it off by trying to push the joint back out cuz I THOUGHT one of the bearings got jammed in the bottom of the cap. It didn't- just needed more muscle. Usually the end of a file can be beat in the hole and it bites it well enough to spin it around. These zerks seem to be made of high grade steel.:doah: Thanks
 
Mudstud said:
I didn't use a pic but thats what the easy out and the stud was suppusd to do. I'll certainly give it a try but it is in there good and tight. Having a hard time making it collapse in on itself cuz it's recessed below the surface of the joint. Thats what I was trying to achieve by drilling it out and hitting the edge with a punch. I broke it off by trying to push the joint back out cuz I THOUGHT one of the bearings got jammed in the bottom of the cap. It didn't- just needed more muscle. Usually the end of a file can be beat in the hole and it bites it well enough to spin it around. These zerks seem to be made of high grade steel.:doah: Thanks

Is the zerk in the cap or the body of the joint?

Dick
 
In the cross. Another guy told me they make self tapping zerks. Might have to look into that.
 
Take the joint back and exchange it for a NON GREASABLE JOINT... you would not belive how much stronger they are. Stick wit Spicer.
gabe
 
Ride mostly mud so I really want the greasable joint. Plus the SPL55-4x joint has a forged body and redesigned grease ports to address the weaklink problem.
See this http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/ 2/3rds of the way down.

I got the dern thing out last night. Got a tad larger titanium bit and used the drill press to control teh depth and just dug out the top lil bit to the point of lil threaded splinters came out. Still gotta try and get all the metal out of it though.
 
I got one out recently by pounding a small Torx socket in it and using a rachet to turn it out, worked great.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom