CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Broke my frame

LAZYMON

1/2 ton status
 Premium
Joined
Jul 26, 2000
Posts
246
Reaction score
27
Location
Lake Tahoe
I was wheeling pretty hard the other day when I suddenly heard my fan blade hitting something. Found it to be hitting my ORD frame brace. I bent the fan blades just a little to not hit and went on my way. Steering kept binding up a little. Upon further inspection I find the frame totally cracked and sitting about a half inch lower than the rest of the frame rail. Right along where the ORD brace attach's.
Question is now what is the best way to fix this?
 
Here is the carnage:eek1:

picture.php

From the wheel well

picture.php


From underneath
 
by the look of the cracks ends thats been broken for some time .

not much clean fresh breaks there.

that could have been seen if a check over was done before trips.

that bad if me get a whole front half section and splice it in place up in the middle of the arch above the axle and fish plate it and should be good to go.
 
Gnarly....

SweetK30's right. I don't see any fresh breaks. Do you know 100% that it wasn't cracked prior to the steering brace? The break goes through the steering box bolt holes, so you may not have seen it unless you removed the box.

The problem with that stretch of frame is that it sees compression stress from the springs and also sees torque-loading from the gearbox. That's a lot to ask of some pretty thin frame rail.

You can weld it back up, but it probably won't last. Like sweetk30, I recommend you replace it at the top of the spring arch. Also, when you cut it out and weld it in, use a 'Z' cut rather than a straight cut. This gives more weld surface area to spread the load. If you Z-weld in a new rail, fish plate it, and maybe even box it in that area, the frame may break again, but it won't break there.
 
that patch is not made for that severe of a snap off. :whistle:

its ment to be more a reinforcment plate for that area. not a severed off weld back on thing.
 
it's conceivable to fix in that position i would say...

remove everything.... grind and V cut both sections.... get it fitted/clamped in position.. weld back on.... grind smooth... use weld-on patch on the outer portion as a fish plate.. than do a large diamond shaped fish plate on the inside... this would require some x-member modding tho...
 
it's conceivable to fix in that position i would say...

remove everything.... grind and V cut both sections.... get it fitted/clamped in position.. weld back on.... grind smooth... use weld-on patch on the outer portion as a fish plate.. than do a large diamond shaped fish plate on the inside... this would require some x-member modding tho...

that's how i'd do it, but i'd also add straps on the upper and lower frame 'lips' at least across the repair, but the longer the better.
 
Yep, fixable. A little bit of work involved but doable. As was said reweld it in place after a good "V" groove, then fish plate it. and or a good frame horn replacement farther back with fish plates welded in place. Even box it in from the crossmember forward so the steering box has two walls of strength to help support it.
 
Good thoughts guys. It may have had a crack for a short time, did not when I put on the brace years ago. Did not see any cracks when I replaced by axle with 3/4 last summer. I have never welded but have a friend with a welder that can maybe help. I had read about the weld on patch but was not sure if it could be used with this big of crack.
 
Frame bust

The guys who say v grind it and weld then patch are right on the money. I used to weld alot of broken frames on low riders (no I'm not a fan but their money spent as good as everyone elses did). Just make sure you use proper welding procedures. Prep is one of your most important issues. Keep it clean or you will only have more problems. If you aren't really experienced with a welder and can't lay down a perfect bead with really good penetration hire someone to do it as it will save you from a huge headache and a bigger bill the second time around. The strips on the top and bottom are also crucial. If you are good with metal I used to build angle steel to fit in the inner shoulder of the frame rails. Just stay beefy on the metal and welds and you will do just fine. Just plan, measure, remeasure, test fit several times and go at it. Study it for awhile and see where you can support it the best. Good luck and take my opinion as you will. Better days of wheeling to you.
 
that patch is not made for that severe of a snap off. :whistle:

its ment to be more a reinforcment plate for that area. not a severed off weld back on thing.
Mine was worse, it broke completely off and the box fell off to the side and the front section of the frame flipped up 90 degrees.
I welded it up and put the patch on and it was good for another 6 years when I parted the truck it was still holding up fine.
Sometimes it's not worth it to swap frames when it's an hour's worth of work to fix.:thumb:
 
Anybody know if there is a significant difference between a 3/4 ton suburban frame ('91) and a 1/2 ton suburban? If so, what are they? I would really like to avoid something like this happening to me.

Thanks for this post - most informative
 
both those frames should be the same.. only the 1 ton stuff is a bit thicker, and they ain't that much better...

ALL of these rigs, whether 1/2, 3/4 or 1 ton benefit from the weld-on and bolt-in brace, ESPECIALLY as preventative maintenance... both should be early priorities for any of these rigs, whether offroad rig or daily driver... my k5 cracked from DDing it...
 
After you fix it... Call up Kirt at Diy4x and see if he can fab you a inner front frame brace like mine. Ask him to see if he could extend it, covering the steering box area.
08b6e7a6.jpg



If possible... I agreee the ORD plate is a great upgrade. Here's mine.
70df8ea3.jpg


9c4adbd1.jpg


d360371c.jpg
 
Top Bottom