J, thanks for the reply, was just concerned about knocking the old ones out and not breaking the casting or somehow damaging a cylinder or webbing. Can I use a big socket to push them back in.
OK, I'll give you some info. But its dated. Hopefully if there has been any changes someone will chime in.
First thing to remember, is that the edges of the hole are critical. Keep any hard tools away from them.
You do not want any scratches or gouges where the new plug has to seal.
Use a thick screwdriver or punch to punch at the side or top of the plug. Not along the edge where it is in the block, but just inside along the side. Don't hit it at the bottom, the odds of hitting a thin spot and punching through are slightly greater there.
The idea is to get the plug to rotate in the block and turn sideways. Then you can grab it with something and work it out.
Make sure the edges of the hole are clean and dry with a slight chamfer on the outside edge.
Light polishing with some Scotch Bright or such might be necessary. Don't remove much metal.
Now you have to decide between steel and brass plugs.
I have used both.
In a boat, you use brass, no question.
Otherwise, I have no real opinion as to which is best. Brass will not rust, but if you keep the antifreeze good, steel should not either.
Brass does look cool while it is still shiny though.
Sealant or no sealant.
In a perfect world you should not need sealant.
But, if the hole is slightly oversize, not perfectly smooth, or not exactly round, you may get a leak if its put in dry.
DO NOT use silicone rubber. It never gets rock hard, and the plug will eventually work out.
Some of the varnish type permatex gasket sealers work the best probably if you use any.
You can use a special freeze plug install tool, or a big socket. I'm willing to bet outside of a factory more plugs have been put in with a socket than the tool.
DO NOT use a socket that fits snugly in the plug. You want it almost snug so that the force is as close to the outside as possible, but the plug contracts as it is driven in.
That spring force of it trying to expand out is what holds it in and creates the seal. If your socket is snug, not only will it make it harder to punch in, it could crack the block in an extreme case.
Also something has to give, so the metal of the lip of the plug will thin out some and give less hold.
But, the worse part is, you often wind up with the socket stuck in the plug.......
That is embarrassing.
Make sure the plug starts in straight and stays straight.
Catawompus is bad.
If it does not look right, pull it back out and put in another one. Remember its next to impossible to test these things before the engine is all the way back in and running.
Better to waste one than have to replace it with the engine in place.
Notice how deep the original ones are and stop when the new one is the same depth.
If you find a bad hole, then you may have to do the thread routine. DO NOT use one of the expanding rubber plugs no matter who says they work.
They Don't.
They are for getting you home from the trail, not long term use.
