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Broken Down Question

Justin Fleming

Justin Fleming

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Guys just thru the rear drive shaft, crawled under there and pulled it out, ran home and put in new u-joint. What I have noticed is it snapped the tail housing off the t-case. Can I limp this home 11 miles or is that not a good idea

1990 k5

thanks in advance
 
how much fluid do we think I will lose, I believe that it is just slung up there by the chain to lube that bearing?
 
Get creative with some straps keeping the t-case tight to the transmission for the drive home.
 
It only holds a couple of quarts. You might make it. You might run out of out oil.
 
it only broke the tail hosing that holds the seal for the rear drive shaft.... just want to clarify and make sure we are all talking the same piece that broke
 
Justin Fleming said:
it only broke the tail hosing that holds the seal for the rear drive shaft.... just want to clarify and make sure we are all talking the same piece that broke
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Sorry, I missed that detail. Seen too many broken transmission tail housings.
 
Leave the rear shaft out, find a 1 or 2 liter drink bottle to cut and slip over what's left of the tailhousing and duct tape it in place. Drive home on the front shaft (4wd hi).
 
Justin Fleming said:
Anyone have a housing in the bone yard?
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Pretty common piece, easy to find a replacement online. Just need to know what case you have. There will be a red circle tag on the back of the case with the info if you are not sure.
 
A 90 K5 with an automatic will have a 27 spline, 4 spd will have 32 spline 241 with vss. All I have right now is mech speedo.
 
Last edited:
nvrenuf said:
Leave the rear shaft out, find a 1 or 2 liter drink bottle to cut and slip over what's left of the tailhousing and duct tape it in place. Drive home on the front shaft (4wd hi).
Click to expand...

That was what I'd suggest too--I drove my '72 K5 15 miles home with no rear driveshaft ,after the rear pinion yoke stripped its splines and it wouldn't move in 2wd...just pulled the shaft out and locked the hubs,used 4Hi to get it home..it had a NP-205 with a rear yoke so I had no worries about losing lube,but the soda bottle idea will work to get it home in your case..
 
She was gushing, so I paid the 85 dollar tow bill, 22 plus years never stranded and I could risk transfer case issues with the snow storm rolling in
 
So I just got it all torn down, Looks like the yoke at the rear end is wobbled out some and a new ujoint cap has some play when sitting it in there. I notices a shinny spot on one side. So two questions how much can you get away with there and or if I purchase a new yoke wouldn't I be opening up a new can of worms trying to get the torque/pinion depth/crush washer set back where it was. I know in a perfect world those are a one time shot kind of item
 
other questions, what is the correct yoke

Dorrman 697-500 or 697-549 Both seem to come up as compatible...
 
Justin Fleming said:
So I just got it all torn down, Looks like the yoke at the rear end is wobbled out some and a new ujoint cap has some play when sitting it in there. I notices a shinny spot on one side. So two questions how much can you get away with there and or if I purchase a new yoke wouldn't I be opening up a new can of worms trying to get the torque/pinion depth/crush washer set back where it was. I know in a perfect world those are a one time shot kind of item
Click to expand...
You want the u-joint to seat properly. Just get a new yoke. The crush sleeve wont stretch back out, it is set where it needs to be. Just undo the nut, tap the yoke off with a mallet, put the new one on. It's a high torque spec so grab a big 1/2 drive ratchet or breaker bar and go as tight as you can get it. I have changed several and never had an issue. Change the seal while its apart.
 
You threw me with the crush sleeve.......
I had just about decided I had learned something I never suspected. I never knew transfer cases had crush sleeves..............
Then, I went back and spotted where you changed subjects and felt better.

I can tell you the one time I replaced a yoke in a crush sleeve rear end. Lots of folks count the turns of the nut and turn it the same number on the new yoke.
But, I did not like that.
It assumes that the new yoke is the same thickness from where the nut contacts it to where it contacts the crush sleeve. What you are looking for is the same amount of tension on, or compression of, the crush sleeve as before. So, what I did, was use a really big pull handle, lock down the tire so the shaft could not turn.
After I got all the slop out of the shaft by pulling really hard on the pull handle, but not quite hard enough to start the nut turning, I marked the outside of the socket and its location against the yoke.
Then noticed how far it turned until the nut got slack.
Wobbled the yoke in and out as I tightened the nut back up.
When the yoke had no more slop, and the nut was firm against it, I measured (by eye) the distance the socket turned from the break loose point to the point of the last tightness of the nut against the yoke.

Then, I pulled the yoke, replaced the seal, and put on the new yoke. Tightened the nut down until is was firm against the new yoke, then turned the socket the same distance as before. Actually, I tightened it past that point to make sure there were no burrs or anything then backed it off to the just touching point.
Doesn't matter where the nut is when it hits the yoke, if the yoke is thicker or thinner. The threads are the same pitch as before.
If the nut turned 3/4 turn from start to just touching, then turning it back the same amount is going to apply the exact amount of preload as before.
 
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