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Broken exhaust manifold studs

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RedDevil

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I have an 85 K5 that I'm trying to replace afew broken exhaust manifold studs in, the ones that bolt to the exhaust pipe. Anyway, from what it looks like, the studs are part of the manifold, is that right??? I got replacement studs from NAPA but after looking at the top of the manifold, the studs appear to be welded in. Is there anyway to get the broken ones out? I would assume drilling them out but if they are in fact part of the manifold, I'm stuck as to what to do. Any info would help! :confused:
 
The studs are threaded into the manifolds. You will need to drill them out if they broke flush otherwise you might get lucky by using some penetrating oil and then trying to grab them with pliers or a stud remover and try to back them out.
 
Ya, they broke flush with the flange. I figured they had to be threaded in but I wanted to make sure, thanks.
 
RedDevil said:
Ya, they broke flush with the flange. I figured they had to be threaded in but I wanted to make sure, thanks.
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1/3 did that for me. I tryied an ez-out but I snapped it off in the stud, so I have just been running 2 bolts on the flange instead of 3. :rolleyes:



tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick
I can almost hear it in my sleep... :mad:
 
Chevy305 said:
1/3 did that for me. I tryied an ez-out but I snapped it off in the stud, so I have just been running 2 bolts on the flange instead of 3. :rolleyes:
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Heat the ez-out to a bright cherry red and then just let it cool. It'll take the temper out of it and you can go ahead and drill it out.
 
yes, this is a huge Pain in the Culo! I do this every time I work on manifolds. Makes me want headers every time.
 
thorough cleaning and penetrating oil the day before on threads exposed on the stud will do wonders, i amazes me how many people will look at a bolt with all the grime and dirt on it and not even put a wirebrush to it b4 thy put a wrench on it. if they would wire brush it clean and put on some penatrating oil and if its stuck.set up a ring/vibration in the bolt or stud for a min. and try it again.

i disassembled my '68swb completly with out breaking or striping a single bolt, even the exhaust studs that were rusted very very bad they took a little heat on the cast tho but they screwed out and i replaced them with new studs, most bolts were reusable,alot of the bolts looked like they had a copper coat on them, something chevy may have done back then to prevent galvontic action
 
blazin_blazer said:
thorough cleaning and penetrating oil the day before on threads exposed on the stud will do wonders, i amazes me how many people will look at a bolt with all the grime and dirt on it and not even put a wirebrush to it b4 thy put a wrench on it. if they would wire brush it clean and put on some penatrating oil and if its stuck.set up a ring/vibration in the bolt or stud for a min. and try it again.

i disassembled my '68swb completly with out breaking or striping a single bolt, even the exhaust studs that were rusted very very bad they took a little heat on the cast tho but they screwed out and i replaced them with new studs, most bolts were reusable,alot of the bolts looked like they had a copper coat on them, something chevy may have done back then to prevent galvontic action
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I slobber everything in penetrating oil, especially those manifold studs for 3 days prior. I slobbered my suspention bolts in penetration oil 2 weeks prior and still had to cut all the u-bolts, and 5/8 leaf spring bolts. I use PB Blaster, the best stuff out there.
 
Chevy305 said:
. I use PB Blaster, the best stuff out there.
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I'm starting not to think so... I've used PB for nearly 20 yrs now.. It's always been very good to me and I've always recommended it to others...

But the last few months I've been using Sea Foams Deep Creep at work and have been VERY impressed...

One day I'd like to try some of that Kroil I hear about, great reviews about that stuff out there..
 
stud service..

I have spent much of my life drilling out busted studs from Chevy exhaust manifolds!..despite soaking them with penatrating oil and heating the manifolds up cherry red,they often STILL break off,usually flush or below the manifold surface..:doah:
I either drill them out, or use the cutting torch,if the stud hole goes all the way thru,to blow the stud out of the manifold..I have little luck with E-Z outs,they usually snap off inside the stud, rather than extract it..but the torch will remove them easily too,they turn into sparklers long before the other metal reaches the melting point--works with broken taps too!

I try welding a nut to the remains of the busted stud,and let it cool for several minutes..usually the stud comes right out if you let the heat soak in for awhile--turn it too quick,it'll twist off again!..

I use Mopar's "Heat Riser Lube and Penetrant" for stubborn rusted bolts,etc--I find its better that PB Blaster or other oils,and is cheaper too!..Chrysler dealers sell it..has graphite in it,and really works to free stuck parts..good old Castor oil is one of the best penetrants too,my dad swore by it when he worked on gas pipes at work that were corroded..

Lately I've been using a different approach--after using stainless steel studs,which snapped off like glass last time,and were a huge pain to remove (they are hard as diamonds,dont drill easy at all!--and no torch seems to melt them either,I had to pull the manifolds and have them MILLED out at a machine shop!)--:doah:

I decided I liked Mopars way of securing the pipes to the manifolds--a simple 5/16" bolt and nut,that can be simply torched off,and a new bolt and nut installed in seconds,rather than hours!--I use 5/16" allen head bolts, instead of drilling and tapping the manifolds 3/8" again..though some GM manifolds have one "blind" hole--have to use a stud, or a clamp device there instead..

Chevy 305--you can buy a "Clamp-A Stud" thing from Auto-Zone that will clamp over the busted stud and pinch the pipe tight once again--only 10 bucks or so,and beats pulling manifolds and drilling broken studs out..I hate that "tick-tick tick" a leaky doughnut gasket or exhaust manifold makes on a chevy--sounds like a lifter or rod going south!..:crazy:
 
diesel4me said:
Chevy 305--you can buy a "Clamp-A Stud" thing from Auto-Zone that will clamp over the busted stud and pinch the pipe tight once again--only 10 bucks or so,and beats pulling manifolds and drilling broken studs out..I hate that "tick-tick tick" a leaky doughnut gasket or exhaust manifold makes on a chevy--sounds like a lifter or rod going south!..:crazy:
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Wow! I didn't know they had that. i tried a C-clamp but it wouldn't stay on.

Tell me more about this "clamp-a stud"... :D :bow:
 
i always use pb blaster because its the best i can find around here, i used kroil oilwhen i was up north and was very impressed. i even did a comparision had two bolts about the same a left and right, i wirebrushed them nice and clean put some pb blaster that i carry in my tool box on 1 and that kroil oil that the factory i was in kept in stock on the other. 30 min. later the nut that had the kroil on it broke loose and even screwed off by hand once i got it turning good, the bb blaster wouldn't budge, i covered it again and tried it about an hour later, still no go, so i slathered the kroil on it and 15 min it broke loose and came off by hand once i got it loose, and i'm talking about a 1 1/4" stud that had nuts on it holding a very large pillar block bearing. i come home and you can't find that kroil down here(AR) it must be a northern thing like those weird acetylene bottle fittings they have up there, but without a doubt ,kroil oil is the best stuff i've ever seen, its in a orange can, i guess i'll have to be on the look out for some of that Sea Foams Deep Creep and give it a try.
 
Chevy305 said:
Wow! I didn't know they had that. i tried a C-clamp but it wouldn't stay on.

Tell me more about this "clamp-a stud"... :D :bow:
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Google "Nickson Industries" and look under "Retail Clamp-A-Stud"...most parts stores have or can get them,they work great,although they don't exactly "look" good..:crazy:
 
Pull the manifold, torch the stud out, let it cool, run a tap down the hole to clean up the threads, install a new stud using some hi-temp anti-sieze, bolt it all back up.

You can torch the stud out since the manifold is cast. It won't hurt it a bit. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, take it to an exhaust shop, they will usually do it for cheap.
 
diesel4me said:
Google "Nickson Industries" and look under "Retail Clamp-A-Stud"...most parts stores have or can get them,they work great,although they don't exactly "look" good..:crazy:
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I visited 2 Auto Zones today and neither of them have heard of anything like it.

I will google it right now. ;)
 
weird!..

The Auto-Zone here in Raynham sells them,so does all the other parts stores in this area(usually in the aisle next to the muffler adapters and clamps)...

I bet yours has them,or can get one--the counter monkeys probably never heard of one,and didn't feel like looking too hard for you..--whenever I get that blank stare at Auto-Zone,I usuall head to NAPA,or the store I used to work at..they always know what I'm asking for,and if they dont,they'll LOOK for it!..you do pay a higher price there,but its worth it sometimes..:crazy:
 
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