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Broken head bolt......anyone run with one broken or should I try to

J

jakeslim

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should i try to remove it. What a pain. /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif Its a new bolt that broke as it reached 70lbs torque. It is the last bolt on the lower exposed side of the head. Could i run witht it? /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif

Paul
 
First off head bolts on a SBC torque to 65 lbs. not 70 lbs.
If you broke a new head bolt even at 70 lbs. I would be checking the calibration on your torque wrench. If it is the type with a bar that bends throw it away FAST, a good torque wrench is a clicker or dial type of a quality brand not a $35.00 cheapo from Kragens or someplace. Not saying you have a cheap torque wrench but if you do throw it away and if not then have yours calibrated before you do anything more.
 
hmm...its not the bar kind, it the "click" kind(craftsman) and fairly new, so the calibration should be near. I read 70 in a small block book i have. So, is it possible to run with ith or should i try to drill it out.
 
The craftsman torque wrenchs aren't the best wrench in the world but aren't the worst either. Have you ever had it csalibrated? I know you said it is fairly new but if it has ever been dropped then it needs to be checked for accuracy. Someone that was looking to buy it previously before you bought it may have dropped it and ruined its calibration. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

I would definately remove the broken bolt and install a new one. The lower row of head bolts protrude into water and will leak or rather flow like a river if it is broken and just left like that. You should be able to work it out with a center punch and a small hammer as long as it did not bind up on something in the hole and break.
 
Don't run with it broke.
What are ya using for a torque wrench??
Pull all the bolts back out and remove the head, remove bolt.
Hopefully the bolt is sticking above the deck and you can grab it with some pliers.
If not ya did tap the hole right?
If it is below the deck a left hand drill bit should twist it out.
Even if the bolt bottemed out it should not have snapped at 70 ftlbs.
 
Ok, just back from the garage. I pulled the head and it was about 1/8th of an inch out. I grabbed my trusty vice grips and out it came! Thanks for the help.

I think the bolt was bad. It should have not broke at 70lbs. The book i was referencing said 60-70 so i went to 70 /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif. I'll replace the gasket(i should not use again, correct?)

Also, should i use a sealer in the lower row of bolts since its in water?
 
You do not need sealer but a drop of oil on the bolt would be best so you get a nice smooth torque reading. Yes you need to replace the head gasket with a new one.
 
I have reused head gasgets when it hasn't been ran.
But that is my call if you are unsure get another.
I use Permetex (pipe dope) on all head bolt and intake manifold bolts.
Permetex Aviation #2 (brown goo) works too.
Broken bolts suck.. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif cool ya got it out. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
you *can* reuse the head gasket as long as it hasnt been heated up. Once its been heated up your screwed and you have to get a new gasket.
 
Just a note on the craftsman wrenches. First, they aren't lifetime warranty..either 90 days or 1 year, I forget. If you are thinking of having one calibrated you might as well just buy a new one cause it will cost you almost as much to have it calibrated as it would to buy a new one. When I was working there I overheard 2 of the service people talking about them
 
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You do not need sealer but a drop of oil on the bolt would be best so you get a nice smooth torque reading. Yes you need to replace the head gasket with a new one.

[/ QUOTE ]

I believe this will give a false torque reading. Torque specs are rated with clean, dry threads IIRC.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
You do not need sealer but a drop of oil on the bolt would be best so you get a nice smooth torque reading. Yes you need to replace the head gasket with a new one.

[/ QUOTE ]

I believe this will give a false torque reading. Torque specs are rated with clean, dry threads IIRC.

[/ QUOTE ]

NEVER EVER torque anything dry. Take a look at ARP hardware, they say to either use their ARP lube or 30 weight motor oil.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
You do not need sealer but a drop of oil on the bolt would be best so you get a nice smooth torque reading. Yes you need to replace the head gasket with a new one.

[/ QUOTE ]

I believe this will give a false torque reading. Torque specs are rated with clean, dry threads IIRC.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yeah dude, unless it specifies dry torque, i always use a smear of good moly lube (like ARP's lube) on the threads and on the bottom of the head of the bolt. This will give you the most accurate and repeatable reading possible.
 
hehe, i broke a head bolt once too...had to drill it so i could back it out..anyway, have a clicker type torque wrench, and apparently didn't tighten the lock in the bottom of the wrench well...cuz I was amazed the bolt broke. As I was tightening the other bolts, it worked itself out to about 140 lbs! Hence the broken bolt. son of a...
 
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