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broken lock right. pics on 3rd page. whatcha think?

dsmd58

dsmd58

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i have a 14bsf and am running 38's tsl radials on my burb. since i put on the 38's occasionally i get a loud snap initially when im on the gas or when there is a load (ie camping gear loaded up etc). the snapping is getting worse, and happens only when i am on the gas. it doesnt do it when the burb is coasting though, and the vibration/snap seems to come from somewhere near the rear.

is it safe to rule out the trans? the temp runs steady at 180 degrees so its not heating up at all. i have yet to drop the pan though and check for metal shavings etc...i have checked the driveshaft u joints and they dont show any abnormal wear and they arent loose.

when i open the driver door and look underneath at the rear axle, when the sound happens it shakes the rear like its gonna come right off! could this be wheel bearings, or the lock right causing my probs? where to start???:doah:
 
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Slapperbar said:
Sounds like the dog teeth are starting to turn into molars. Rounded off.
Click to expand...

If this is the problem, there is a good chance that the teeth are more worn on the drive side. Try removing the lock-right and reinstalling it swaping the left side for the right side so when you are driving forward you will be using the not-so-worn side of the teeth...

I did this on my front locker, but now that I think of it this probably will not work on the rear with the c-clips. Oh well.

Make sure you check the ring and pinion teeth as well when you open it up.


__
 
i guess im lookin to see if there is a quick test to see what it might be...or is pulling the diff cover the only way? also, if it is pulled..what should i specifically be looking for? just broken teeth?

or if the truck is jacked up is there another quick test to see if its thats the problem?
 
You won't see the broken teeth , they are so short they don't break . They just round over slightly enough to allow the teeth to ramp over each other .

Common on Quic Locs and EZ lockers ( I got 9 months out of one ) , not very common on Lockrights ( I have had over 3 years ) . I knwo people with 10 year old units still working .
 
update***maybe my trans is slipping?

so i ended up putting in new ujoints (after inspecting them there were some burn marks on the joint from worn needle bearings) on the driveshaft and that damn problem keeps occuring.

i havent pulled the diff cover yet to inspect the lockright because my local parts store doesnt stock the gasket. im worried about pulling it and not having all the parts to do put it back together.

after putting the driveshaft back in, i got on it a bit and the bang is turning into a bang bang bang. this happens superquick and only when i am pressing the gas. it doesnt do this when its coasting, could this be the wheel bearings or my trans? my 700r4 doesnt heat up past 180-190 degrees, so it wouldnt be the trans right?
 
You may have killed the locker , since you got the ujoints taken care of .

RTV the cover , I havent had a gasket since I blew up my gov loc .
 
so i guess i will just try pulling the diff cover and see whats up. i also have to mention that when i pulled the driveshaft, i was able to turn the rear pinion yoke about and 1 inch to 1 inch and a half. is this too much play, and can it be a symptom of something inside the diff? AND i hate to sound stupid, but to convert it back to an open diff all i have to do is pull the lockright out correct? im sick of this freakin noise and if its that damn lockright, i will just save up for a detroit

and if the locker is toast, could it have hurt anything else? spider gears etc???
 
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t oconvert back, pull the lokrite and reinstall the spider gears.

At he point you are, just go and pullthe cover. gear oil is pretty cheap and so is RTV.

I helped a friend with his when it was making the noises you describe and it turned out he had a spring break in the lok rite.

He called the manufacturer up and they send him all new springs. We also did what someone else suggested earlier and installed it backwards to have the other side of the teath engaging
 
i pulled the cover. nothing out of the ordinary inside. no metal parts hanging or laying around. i had a friend drive the truck while i inspected the rear, and when the snap happens, the pinion yoke and entire jumps like someone hit it with a hammer.

could this be a bad pinion yoker or even bad wheel bearings?
 
Pinion jumps ? Like the whole pinion or just front of axle rotates like axle wrap ?

The pinion should rotate a bit until the crosshaft hits the couplers , that parts normal .

Can you wiggle your yoke up and down ( not rotating ) ?
 
no, when i had the driveshaft out it did not move up or down. it only rotated a bit, an inch or inch and a half rotation. im thinking it could be the wheel bearings. its a 14blsf with 38's. is there a simple test i can do before i attempt to pull them?

FYI - this snapping only happens when its under load....when im coasting its fine...but the exhaust and swampers tend to mask any other noises :)
 
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If your pinion rotates that far, you've got some serious problems, if I'm interpreting you right! It's common to get SOME rotation at the pinion with the tires on the ground, but it should be a bunch less than an inch. Maybe 1/8" of rotation at best? What I interpret you as saying is that if the u-joint straps are at 12 and 6 o'clock, you can rotate the pinion so the lower cap is pointing at like 8 o'clock with the wheels on the ground??

Your pinion is completely unrelated to the wheel bearings. Wheel bearings will eat into the axle, thats it. If they were so bad to make your pinion jump, something else would break. You had the cover off, thats when you pull the axleshafts out a bit and inspect the bearing wear surfaces. 14SF's use huge bearings, even on 10 bolts they rarely go bad, on the 14SF the axleshaft is highly unlikely to wear unless you had lubrication issues.

Really, really, really doubt your problems are the wheel bearings. You might as well get that out of your head, even though it never hurts to inspect the axleshafts. But closely inspect the pinion and ring gears for teeth that are missing or damaged. May even be the pinion bearing, but I'd expect that problem to be noticeable from leaking fluid and vertical play.

Wheel bearings are the ECM's of mechanical parts...often blamed for problems (noise, vibration or other), but very rarely the cause, and a fair bit of work to replace "just because" on a part that rarely fails.
 
another thing that i forgot to add is that when this does happen, the rear will pull to the right or left in a quick jerk. i dont remember the pinion being able to move up or down, and when the cover was off i didnt see anything in the case itself. is it possible that the lockright could be masking a problem internally cause i didnt pull it out?
 
If there was a problem with the lock-rite you probably wouldn't be able to see it until you pulled it out of the diff.

Are you sure the ring and pinion gear looked ok?
 
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