Broken rear driver shock mount

[VegasAR15]

I have been running with just one rear shock since I got my truck. I didn't notice until I put my lift kit on earlier this year that my rear driver shock mount was busted. I am probably taking it hunting in a couple weeks and want all four shocks before then. Whats the best option?

Bolting and welding on a thick piece of angle iron in the stock location?

Drilling a hole in the frame like the passenger side? I can beef it up by welding on some 1/4" thick washers that I have to each side of the frame.

Or going with this setup http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=24&product_id=118 and inboarding the rear shocks. For anyone who has done this, do I need to change the bolt location on my stock 10 bolt axle and would I need longer shocks? My shocks are set up for a normal 4" lift.

 

[dremu]

I have been running with just one rear shock since I got my truck. I didn't notice until I put my lift kit on earlier this year that my rear driver shock mount was busted. I am probably taking it hunting in a couple weeks and want all four shocks before then. Whats the best option?

Bolting and welding on a thick piece of angle iron in the stock location?

Drilling a hole in the frame like the passenger side? I can beef it up by welding on some 1/4" thick washers that I have to each side of the frame.

Or going with this setup http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=24&product_id=118 and inboarding the rear shocks. For anyone who has done this, do I need to change the bolt location on my stock 10 bolt axle and would I need longer shocks? My shocks are set up for a normal 4" lift.

The inboard thing is the most complicated solution. Yeah, you'd hafta change the shock mounts on the axle, 'cuz the shocks would now angle side-to-side instead of front-to-back. You might also need longer shocks, and then you can lose some effectiveness from angling the shocks ... so, big project.

If you can weld, why not just patch the frame and the mount? Seems like that would be simplest.

-- A

 

[VegasAR15]

The inboard thing is the most complicated solution. Yeah, you'd hafta change the shock mounts on the axle, 'cuz the shocks would now angle side-to-side instead of front-to-back. You might also need longer shocks, and then you can lose some effectiveness from angling the shocks ... so, big project.

If you can weld, why not just patch the frame and the mount? Seems like that would be simplest.

-- A

I'll have to take a picture of it. I don't think there is a real good way to fix the stock one because I dont have a good flat surface to weld anything to. I don't think I could get enough meat to weld to and be satisfied with it. I think that the actual frame is fine with no cracks.

 

[VegasAR15]

 

[ChrisPerry]

Get to the inside of the frame and grind the rivets off that hold the bracket in place. Get a replacement shock mount bracket and bolt it on with grade 8 hardware.




PM imiceman44 he seams to have a good selection of frame brackets like that.

 

[dremu]

Duh I was thinking about the passenger side where the upper mount is IN the frame. My bad.

IF you can get in there, depending on your exhaust routing and such, I'd remove the rivets as mentioned. If you can't source a replacement bracket easily, you'd have an easier time patching the bracket when it's off the truck. I'm thinking you'd use some fender washers or a chunk of 1/4" plate, weld it in and then re-drill as required.

Then, as mentioned, bolt it back in and off you go. I seem to recall the factory holes being a bit big for 3/8" bolts and a smidge small for 7/16", so ideally you could drill them out to 7/16".

This is one of those things where if the body was off you could do in five minutes ... but PITA though it is to get in there, I betcha it's less work than the inboarding. (I am biased, however, as I inboarded mine and then put them back out again as they were too mushy.)

-- A