Buggy/ Truggy wiring?

[Thumper]

Im not sure if this belongs in here or not, if not sorry! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Was just out to 'my' S-10, and helped my buddy yank the motor. He bought the truck for the 4.3 V6 to go into his CJ, and is taking the fuel injection, and any wiring associated with it. No problem for me however I was just wondering...
What do you guys do for truggy wiring to keep things 'street legal'? I know for a Buggy like Marvs, you just wire it yourself prolly, but what has the guys with the truck cabs/ S-10 cabs done for the wiring? I will be left with basically a shell, most of the wire harnesses will be going to the Jeep. I am an aircraft electrician by trade, so I can wire the vehicle pretty easily, but is there any legal/ insurance requirement to retain any of the factory wiring?
Also, is there a site or a source that would have a basic wiring diagram that a guy could use as a reference so nothing is missed?
Thanks!
BTW, we had to remove the dash to get the wiring out, so I will be running without a dash. I plan on integrating the guages into a crossbar of the cage from side to side. Again, is there any legal/ insurance stuff that would keep a 'dashless' vehicle off the roads?
Thanks!
Mike

 

[BadDog]

Wow, I don't know either. Lets see where it goes, then decide. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

As for wiring, I prefer to start with the factory wiring and modify to my needs. I don't know of any legal requirements or considerations, but it's just easier than trying to build a nice harness with good plugs and lots of colors. For my truggy I took the M1008 harness and ditched most of it except for the front and rear chassis sub-harnesses. Then integrated the engine harness through the bulkhead connector (it has the older 3 piece modular plugs).

After running it that way for a while, with lots of unhooked and tied up wires that were no longer needed, I pulled out the entire harness and spent the evening at the kitchen table with a schematic and "cleaning it up". I removed and simplified the harness as much as possible. Unused circuits from the fuse block were run to a junction block and labeled for use powering "whatever". For instance, my CB feeds from the "radio" fuse via. that junction block. Other circuits that passed through the bulkhead connector got tied into a different junction block, one on each side of the firewall. So, whenever I need a circuit going through, like rock lights or on-board air, I just tie into the junction block and pick up the color matched lead on the other side at it's junction block. All connections are crimped and soldered with string shrink wrap to stabilize the ends from vibrating and breaking.

Stephen made mention in a recent post that he likes to retain the headlight switch, and I agree. I'm still using stock headlight and ignition switch. For one, they work well and are fairly dependable. For another, they can be replaced at any parts house. Same for my break lights and any other miscellaneous switches I can salvage.

I even kept some stuff out of the K5 I junked out recently. I cut out the firewall and braces around the main bulkhead and steering column so I could use it in the buggy I've been planning. That's got the brake booster mount, pedals, steering column brackets, and the bulkhead connector hole all ready to go.

 

[sled_dog]

As a licensed inspection agent in the state of PA I know NO laws saying a vehicle can't pass if it has a modified wiring setup or interior. In fact my K5 is COMPLETELY stripped. I totally removed the factory harness and am working from scratch. This is the way I prefer to work. My rig won't be street legal my the letter of the law, but the reason for that is, I won't have a speedo. I don't feel like locating my inspection manual and sifting through all those stupid laws. I won't have turn signals either. Its a trail truck that will see street use at Bloomsburg truck show, I don't need that stuff.

 

[Thumper]

Cool, great responses.
I am sorta hoping to keep as much of the factory stuff as I can, but pretty much all the wiring will be gone so I will have to either rob my K5 when I pull the tub, or rewire it myself. As for speedo etc, the S-15 unit is all electronic... I figure I will swap in mine from the K5, I will just have to keep the cable from below. The rest of the guages from the dash of the K5 will work as well... just have to mod the dash setup for mounts. Unless I go with full aftermarket setups. Of course $$ will dictate that! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
What guages are reqd as far as street legality go? Speedo? odometer?

Thanks
Mike

 

[jekbrown]

why would you need a speedo or odometer? I guess I can understand why a speedo would be required.. so you know if you're speeding or not. But odometer? Seems like its a pretty useless thing on a 20 year old rig that has had every major part swapped out at one point or another. lol! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

j

 

[sled_dog]

well, inspection requires odometer readings on the stickers, under 5000 miles a year doesn't require emissions in pa, the title notes mileage unless it has become exempt for some reason.

 

[jekbrown]

hmmm... cant remember if the guy looked at my ODO during my last emissions thing. Thats the only kind of inspection I have to do...

j

 

[ntsqd]

Most states require an odometer for the purpose of title transfers. They want to document how much the vehicle has been used, which affects the value. In your case, what value? LOL
Most states also have a box to check that notifies them that the odo is not correct for what ever reason.