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Build a Dana 60 right the first time?

E

elks

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does anyone have a build thread on how to build a 60 right the first time? I have a GM 60 from early 80s. Factory axle shafts, Yukon zip locker with 5.38 gears. I am familiar with axle shaft drive flanges etc. But am not sure about the right way to approach tie rods, steering etc. It was a factory set up and have not figured out the best steering setup. For now plans is for a jeep build running 38s.

Is there a thread that goes through the best overall setup?
 
Just run it until it breaks. I just snapped my front driveshaft and my axles shrugged it off. High Steer and crossover if you are feeling fancy and wanna burn some $$
 
Sounds pretty decent as is.

Setup the steering you want, grease the things that take grease, and run it.
 
seems like overkill already for a Jeep/38's app. what HP you putting out?
 
4wheelinfury said:
Just run it until it breaks. I just snapped my front driveshaft and my axles shrugged it off. High Steer and crossover if you are feeling fancy and wanna burn some $$
Click to expand...

agreed...
and a jeep doesnt weigh as much..

im running a 1978 dodge d60 with stock weird azz locking hubs... all I did was put 4:56's and a detroit in then add ord xover steer and ord high steer arm...

LOVE IT...
 
I agree, it sounds nice as is.

My advice for steering would be to buy a kit. I pieced together my crossover with high steer and had my share of headaches, it works ok now but turn key is nice.
 
Best is hard to say.

Best in my mind involves new Cs and knuckles. A high steer designed to take advantage of said aftermarket knuckles such as Artecs. Shaving the diff housing. Trussing the axle. 1410 yoke. Getting proper caster ( easy if your putting new Cs on) also brand new hubs and cyrod spindles. RCV shafts. Aftermarket brakes and on and on.

I priced out all the parts seperate to build my dream 60 and it was near the exact same price as one from dynatrac or Currie.

So best 60.........= super expensive.
 
I got a stocker from a drw crew cab 1985 had a o.k. life before .

I have run it in 3 trucks now with still stock gears 4.10 shafts and brand X greasable joints . ditched the warn black dial hubs and installed good used spicers .

I have run 38x12.50 tsl tires to 33 in tires and current 35in tires .

even tried to pop a shaft in 4low turned all the way blowing dougnuts on blacktop plowing snow with 9ft fisher blade on the front at around 900lbs .

she still going . . . .
 
I don't think it's overkill in that application at all. The next step down in front axles is a Dana 44 and you are really pushing it with 38's if the Jeep will be used hard. Based on my experience the stock 30-spline outers are the first weak link. Also check to see if it has the older style necked down inner shafts or the newer style non-necked inners. I broke a necked down inner and a couple of stock 30-spline outers with skinny 38's and 160 HP in my K5. Since upgrading to 35 spline outers and non-necked down inners I have had no issues with wide 39.5's and harder use.
 
I'd replace the king pin springs to prevent any possible death wobble - never know how old they are. Or use the spring eliminator kit that several companies offer.
 
I have already rebuilt the king pins with new parts. I am looking closely at the ORD High Steer kit. I have seen several threads on pirate etc. Doing as Blazin UK suggested with new Cs etc. But with your input and some research it seems like I will be good just running a mostly stock axle with a few steering up grades and probably a set of drive flanges!

What about a truss system? What would you do?
 
I plan to run this on a set of leaf springs, but have also considered linking it!

How hard is it really to do a link? I have rebuilt engine, transmissions, etc. Just never tackled a link suspension!
 
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