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Build pics - new body - '90 Blazer

6.2Blazer

3/4 ton status
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Feb 24, 2000
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Location
Ohio
Don't get around to taking many build pics or writing anything up, but here the latest major modification of my Blazer.

Brief history:

'90 Blazer I bought in 1994 with 49k on the clock. All stock Silverado that was very nicely maintained. It's gone from a stock daily driver, to mall cruiser, to moderate trail rig, to pretty much a dedicated trail rig since around 2000.

The factory body was getting pretty beat. The rear fenders were rusting and the bondo from a previous accident on one side was coming out. Not sure why I went through the trouble, but decide it was time for new body panels.

Here is probably the best "before" picture of how it looked....and keep in mind that pictures make it look better than in person. It actually received a lot more damage after a trip to Slade, Ky a few months later as the B-pillar got pushed back around 4" at the door striker.

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So since December '08 I've been in the process of installing new body panels on the Blazer. Still working on it as time allows (work + 2 young kids + pitiful garage at home = slow progress). Fortunately over the winter a friend let me park it in a corner of his very large, and heated, shop to work on for a month. Unfortunately the shop is also 1.5 hours away but I had quite a bit of vacation time to use.

I was really planning on taking some pictures when it was still clean but decided at the last minute to run it in the Mud Run Obstacle Course at the county fair on Wednesday and was rushing around buttoning a few things up instead. In any case, the mud hides any mediocre fab work!

Complete rear 1/4 panels replaced with parts cut off a junkyard Blazer. Also dovetained (tapered) the rear about 6" on each side. This was a lot of work (much more than I expected...replacing them in general, the dovetail part only added a couple more hours). Also sectioned in a new piece on the B-pillar where the door latch was that got creamed last fall while in Slade. Cost = $100 for the parts and at least 40 hours of my labor (I'm sure if I did it again it would take less than 1/2 the amount of time).

Front fenders replaced. These cost me $40 to pull off an old Suburban in the junkyard and didn't take more than a couple hours start to finish including cutting them to fit.

As a side note, all of the body panels were OEM GM parts vs. the cheaper foreign crap. Both trucks the parts were pulled off of had been Ziebarted at some point in their life and thus they were relatively rust free considering they were 20 years old and sitting in a junkyard in Ohio.

Here is the overview. It went from completely clean to this in 31 seconds.

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Here is the dovetail/taper of the rear body. There is a flange where the 1/4's bolt to the floor and along the wheel tubs. I cut the flange off, cut a wedge out of the floor/tubs, then grafted the flange back on. The 1/4's are welded along the B-pillar and at the rear, then bolted all along the floors. Again, about 6" was cut out right at the rear of the floor. I probably would of gone a little further but that would have required completely cutting out the rear cage and redoing it. The top of the bed rails sit right against the down bars on the cage.
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Kinda' hard to notice it from this picture. For reference the rear bumper was cut down about 4.5" on each side (intintially wanted it to stick out further from the body then before).
These give a better idea. For reference the outside of the bumper used to stick out just a slight amout more than the outside of the tire, and the bumper was pretty tight to the fender.
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Nothing real extreme but it should protect the 1/4's at least from the tires back fairly good. I do plan on adding more body armor to this area. Likely a bar that welds to the rockers close to the b-pillar and bends up and over the wheelwell.
 
Couple of other items included in this work.

Reinforced the rear cage portions for more pieces of mind when my son is riding in the back seat. The center mounted rear seat is his and has a 4-point 2" automotive style buckle and he sits on a booster.

Replaced the previous 6"x6" floor plates with much larger plates that are welded along the rear posts, plus bolted to the floor and on the vertical plane of the inner 1/4 panels. Also added a big gusset where the tube is welded to the plate (kinda' hard to see).
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Added a big gusset at this junction. You can see where I had previously cut the tube and butt welded it back together which was the main reason for this.
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Made an additional mounting bracket from the cage to the top of the bed rails. The rails are pretty thick and sturdy , so I figured this would really help the side-to-side rigidity of the cage (again, black paint and mud don't let show up very well).

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Also extended out the rockers by adding strips of 1.5" square along the side. At the front edge it sits flush and then tapers further away at the rear (sticks out about 1.5" further at the back). When I originally did the rockers it had the skinny 38's on it and I didn't want the rockers sticking out further than the tires, the current 15.5" wide tires and 2.75" backspacing rims stick out further so it let me do this. I also wanted to protect the new 1/4's a little better.

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Still plan to do add a little more body protection. Playing around with the idea to add a mini exocage looking bar for the rear panels. Going up from the rockers than going straight back over the fenderwells and attaching to the rear bumper. Also likely get at least one strip of small square tubing welded along the body lines on the front and rear finder ala Bufore style. My main concern is trying to keep the 1/4's halfway decent since they are a PITA to replace. From the mid-point of the rear tire back is probably pretty safe, but the section from the rear of the door to the wheelwell concerns me. Front fenders are fairly easy to find and replace...

Have a set straight set of doors for this winter, but they will require some work to make fit since I need to cut about 5" out of the bottom of them to fit, and convert them from power to manual windows.

Also in the plans are cutting the factory hard top (obviously doesn't fit, and it's cracked from years of trail use) to make a roof over the back. Then need to reinstall the tool/storage boxes in the back and make up a mount for the spare tire (trying to make it so the spare 38 lays down as much as possible to no block the rear vision, but still room for the tool boxes).
 
Here is a quick summary of the existing mods and a few "before" action shots:

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110k on the clock. Stock and untouched 6.2L c-code diesel, soon to have j-code intake and turned up pump. Dual 2.5" Flowmaster 40's. Stock and untouched 700r4 w/ big cooler. Stock and untouched NP241 (but will get rebuilt soon because it leaks bad, but functions fine otherwise). 1350 rear shaft, stock front shaft.

Front axle = D60, 4.10 gears, Lock-right, new Spicer non-neck inners, Spicer joints, Yukon 35-spline stubs, Mt. Logan flanges.

Rear axle = 14-bolt, 4.10, welded, disc brakes

ORD cross-over, HD tierod, 1.5" hydro-assist.

4" TC HD front springs, ORD shackles

Sky shackle flip in back (soon to get 56" springs and axle moved back)

39.5x15.5-15 TSL's, 15x8 steelies w/ 2.75" BS

Rockers cut up about 6" and replaced with 3x3 tubing, customer bumpers front and rear, Ramsey 9k winch.

Line locks front and rear, CS144 (140 amp) alternator, factory dual battery setup.

Modified S&W cage.......and a ton of other odds and ends.......
 
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