Leiger
Registered Member
Hey everyone! Just starting my first build. Ive got an 88 V10 Blazer, basically stock except for the really crappy 4" Lift with blocks in the rear and 35" XTerrains. It was pretty rough around the edges when I got it, but after this summer it should be pretty good to go. Heres the plans
1" Body Lift
Removable Stock Doors/Tube Doors
Painting it green
Rust Bulleting Undercarage+Inside Cab+Frame
Swaybar Correction and Disconnect Kit from ORD
Make a sierra rack on top for storage
a few lights here and there
On-Board Air System (already have a York and a tank)
and my question is......how to rework the suspension? I want 6" of Lift, cause i plan on getting 39" tires after this is all done.
I have 2 options:
I could go with 6" Tuff Country Springs all the way around. This would cost me around $1200 with Zero Rates in the back, heavy duty front shackles, new steering arm, rear greasable suspension bushings, new shocks, and the swaybar dosconnect kit (doing it all at the same time.)
or.........slightly more expensive:
I could go with a 6" Tuff Country Lift up front, still with the new heavy duty shackles, steering arm, and swaybar disconnect. The difference im questioning is in the rear. I could do an ORD Shackle Flip in the rear with a 6" Shackle. Then get a 2" Tuff Country Leaf in the back.....this would get me around 7inches or lift.....and 6" still in the front. Of course I would still go with the greasable bushings, and new shocks. This would cost me around $1500.
Going with 2" springs in the back, would that give me any more articulation over the 6" spring? In addition id have the better shackle in the rear and a flatter spring. Does this sound like a better setup for the $300 or would going with springs all around be simpler and just as effective.
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In the future (during/after college) I plan to do these things.
Welding up a new rear bumper
New Front Bumper
14 Bolt FF
D60
4.10 gears
Lockers front and Rear
Crossover Steering
Doubler kit: transfer case
Slight engine mods, nothing extraordinary
Ill make this my build thread too, ill post updates as soon as they come. Probably nothing till around June though
1" Body Lift
Removable Stock Doors/Tube Doors
Painting it green
Rust Bulleting Undercarage+Inside Cab+Frame
Swaybar Correction and Disconnect Kit from ORD
Make a sierra rack on top for storage
a few lights here and there
On-Board Air System (already have a York and a tank)
and my question is......how to rework the suspension? I want 6" of Lift, cause i plan on getting 39" tires after this is all done.
I have 2 options:
I could go with 6" Tuff Country Springs all the way around. This would cost me around $1200 with Zero Rates in the back, heavy duty front shackles, new steering arm, rear greasable suspension bushings, new shocks, and the swaybar dosconnect kit (doing it all at the same time.)
or.........slightly more expensive:
I could go with a 6" Tuff Country Lift up front, still with the new heavy duty shackles, steering arm, and swaybar disconnect. The difference im questioning is in the rear. I could do an ORD Shackle Flip in the rear with a 6" Shackle. Then get a 2" Tuff Country Leaf in the back.....this would get me around 7inches or lift.....and 6" still in the front. Of course I would still go with the greasable bushings, and new shocks. This would cost me around $1500.
Going with 2" springs in the back, would that give me any more articulation over the 6" spring? In addition id have the better shackle in the rear and a flatter spring. Does this sound like a better setup for the $300 or would going with springs all around be simpler and just as effective.
---------------------------
In the future (during/after college) I plan to do these things.
Welding up a new rear bumper
New Front Bumper
14 Bolt FF
D60
4.10 gears
Lockers front and Rear
Crossover Steering
Doubler kit: transfer case
Slight engine mods, nothing extraordinary
Ill make this my build thread too, ill post updates as soon as they come. Probably nothing till around June though

