Build your own Anti-Wrap/Traction Bar---PICS

[SCOOBYDANNN]

Ok folks, today we are going to build a Traction bar/Anti Wrap bar (or what ever else you would like to call it.)

Over all I spent
$60 for Ruffstuff specialties traction bar mount
$40 for Polyperformance Flex RE joint
$10 for 5' of 1 3/4 x .120 tubing
$10 for one more bushing
and some time.

Step

1) Purchase material
__A) Anti-wrap/Traction bar bracket from
____a)Ruffstuff specialties (one of three ways)

http://http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=24?osCsid=ddab742f8693350db3570f73747c710c
____b) Off Road Design

http://http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/bushingassemblies.htm
____c) RE Flex joint from www.polyperformance.com
______a1)
2) Clean garage

3) Mock up brackets ( i didn't use all of these brackets)

(I did have to use 1/4" spacers on both sides of the RE joint to make up for the difference of the bushing.)

4) tack weld axle brackets to axle (DO NOT finish weld them as you will need to adjust them for the final fitting.

5) Place crossmember attachment point (varies (sp?) from all trucks and applications.)

6)Attach shackle (every truck varies) to RE joint/bushing/heim

7) Connect RE joint/bushing/heim to lower axle mount via. desired tubing. I use 1 3/4 x 0.120.

8)adjust lower mount to be parallel to driveshaft by rotating axle mount.

9)Connect upper axle mount to highest point possible on lower tubing.

10)Paint and show off to fellow CK5ers so they can do the same.

enjoy

Dan
Sun Desert Offroad

 

[02turbogixxer]

NICE!!!!

 

[muddybuddy]

i need to make one for mine as well. looks good

 

[wayne]

Nice job. Is that a 4" shackel?

 

[sled_dog]

not worried about terminating the upper link into the lower so far from the joint? I know I've seen folks before post failed bars that did the samething with thicker tubing.

Boy it seems like I always have criticism huh?

It looks damn good otherwise, and either way its gonna work great.

 

[jekbrown]

not worried about terminating the upper link into the lower so far from the joint? I know I've seen folks before post failed bars that did the samething with thicker tubing.

x2... 0.120 wall seems mighty thin. For this app I'd want 0.250 and I'd probably put "side plate" gussets over the entire length out of 1/8" plate or something too.

j

 

[SCOOBYDANNN]

Nice job. Is that a 4" shackel?

yup

not worried about terminating the upper link into the lower so far from the joint? I know I've seen folks before post failed bars that did the samething with thicker tubing

i am kinda worried but i had progressed too far on my last peice of tubing to change direction. we'll see how it works. If it fails--build it again

Boy it seems like I always have criticism huh?

I love criticism. It helps me and others learn--I can either learn from the mistakes or back up the design. In this case I don't know what will happen, but I guarntee if it fails I'll let everyone know.

 

[diesel4me]

A thought...

You could beef up the tubing by using 1/4" thick angle iron welded along its bottom...
like this... V

I like the design..it appears the tubes might help protect the driveshaft from rocks while your scraping over them too!..

 

[sled_dog]

good point on the driveshaft thing.

glad you like the criticism I usually feel people take me as too much of an asshole in those situations, haha.

 

[Sandman]

Nice!

The only concern that I would have is rotating the axle tube in the housing under torque. Seen it happen a few times. Maybe bracing over to the pumpkin would be a good idea.

 

[SCOOBYDANNN]

Nice!

The only concern that I would have is rotating the axle tube in the housing under torque. Seen it happen a few times. Maybe bracing over to the pumpkin would be a good idea.

I was definately thinking about that, but not too sure how to execute it. Any ideas?

I was thinking of throwing a bead where the tube meets the diff but don't know if that would hurt it or help it seeing as how the diff is cast. I have seen it done before but it dosn't make it right.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

The diff is cast steel. You can weld it if you preheat it.

 

[sled_dog]

diff is cast iron. You can weld to it, and it will help, but its not going to be the strongest thing ever. Pre and post heating will be necessary for a GOOD weld. Something like a truss tieing both tubes and the pinion support ogether would be THE way to go, but its expensive and seeing as you have that setup for the traction bar, there is no reason for it. I'd ask a bit how folks have welded around the tubes then do that. I can't speak on it, I've never done it.

 

[Sandman]

Yeah I would at least weld the tube. It couldnt hurt at least.

I have seen in one instance where it turned on a welded tube but it could have been a bad weld or who knows.

Maybe brace off of the mount to the pumpkin a bit?

That traction bar looks great and I plan on building one just like it this fall.

 

[FOR MUD]

Hey Sled Dog there are two kinds of criticism , one is the constructive type and the other distructive . From what I've seen of yours they have all been constructive and if other person can't see that then they are the asshole not you .

 

[DavidB]

The diff is cast steel. You can weld it if you preheat it.

Does anyone know for sure if it's cast iron or cast steel?

 

[broncoman6524]

is it normal to do only 1? from what ive seen/heard is that you should run 2...

 

[DavidB]

2 might tend to impede flex. 1 is good if it's strong enough I think.

You're probably thinking about the drag racing, sled pulling, or wannabe traction bars - put on to look cool (if you think that's cool ) and make up for too much block lift.

 

[broncoman6524]

k thats what i thought, and ya i was thinking about drag racing, adn mud racing.

 

[1BEATK5]

hey scooby, i noticed that you ran both your exhaust pipes down the driver's side into one flowmaster. did you route the rt side around the oil pan sump, or under the trans? What kind of manifold or header design do you have?
I have a 350/203/205 combo with a 2" up on the case. and now my exhaust is compltely hacked on the rt side to make it clear the shifters and the 3" front d-line. so I was thinking about some street rod headers that dump straight down and then routing the rt pipe around the sump on the oil pan for clearance reasons