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Built my anti wrap bar, DONE, PICS****

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84_Chevy_K10

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Alright so after seeing many single bar anti wrap setups, I'm wanting to build my own starting today.

Is there any particular reason that it needs to be extremely long? I'm thinking 4' or so will be long enough, enough to get it towards where the front portion of the driveshaft is so the crossmember can double as a driveshaft loop.

I'm thinking some thick PIPE is going to be what I'll use. We all know that structrally it will hold up, and that it shouldn't be trusted for something like a roll cage, but for this application, it's CHEAP, strong, and seems to fit the bill just nicely (although it's heavier than tube).

So, any tips/pictures of setups you've seen, and ideas of what NOT to do?

I'm considering putting a rod end at at least one end even though it's going to have a shackle on the front of it, IF I can find one in the farm section that will work out nicely.

I just got my hobart 135 and I'm aching to make something cheap/homebrew that works!!!

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Re: Starting to build my single bar anti wrap today, any tips?

I think the idea of making the bar as long if not longer than your driveshaft is the idea.

Why make and anti wrap bar BEFORE you get your rear springs swapped out? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
Re: Starting to build my single bar anti wrap today, any tips?

I'm not moving the axle any when I do the springs, so it doesn't matter.

I just want to fabricate something today. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Re: Starting to build my single bar anti wrap today, any tips?

Get one of those tractor links with ball joint ends and cut it in half and weld a pipe in between. I am currently running a single bar setup. I started with two but I ripped one off already /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

16468tracbarsinstalled-med.JPG
 
Re: Starting to build my single bar anti wrap today, any tips?

I think you should consider triangulating at the diff itself and have a second shorter bar (~18-24") converge to a single bar. A high mis-alignment end (johnny joint) and a shackle should allow plenty of twist and very little if any bind.

I'd aim to have one bar above the axle tube and one slightly below (but not too low obviously)

A single bar either above or below can still allow the axle to pivot on the bar and cause wrap up...

Rene
 
Re: Starting to build my single bar anti wrap today, any tips?

As for material I'd use double sched pipe (sched 80 or 120) to get more wall thickness. The bars can take a real beating uder there.

My anti wrap bar uses .375" wall 1.5" DOM. Major overkill, but it's nice not to worry about them no matter what I hit.

Rene
 
Re: Starting to build my single bar anti wrap today, any tips?

This is by far my favorite anti-wrap system that I have seen. It is tried and proven by Toby (TTC Winner) so I have faith in its ability to do the job right.

Anyways here's a link that has another link lol.
Bambar Anti-wrap

This will be what I use when I get to that stage of my build up /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
Re: Starting to build my single bar anti wrap today, any tips?

[ QUOTE ]
I think you should consider triangulating at the diff itself and have a second shorter bar (~18-24") converge to a single bar. A high mis-alignment end (johnny joint) and a shackle should allow plenty of twist and very little if any bind.

[/ QUOTE ]

That is EXACTLY what I had in mind. What I meant by single bar is that only on one side. Does it only need to be 24" long? How long would you make the upper link?

I went to the store today and all they had were tractor links (too short but coud easily be lengthened) and the biggest size black pipe they had was 1". I wanted 1 1/4-1 1/2 so I passed on it for today, I think I'm going to do some drawing before I actually fab up the piece.

So, Bushings at the axle end, and a rod end at the front part where it mounts to the shackle?
 
Re: Starting to build my single bar anti wrap today, any tips?

Looking at this bambar setup, it looks genious. Maybe I'll try that instead. Looks impossible to bash it because it is above the pumpkin.

Anyone see any problems with welding to the differential?

Off to make some drawings.....
 
Re: Starting to build my single bar anti wrap today, any tips?

Tim, if you have access to a camera, could you take lots of pics through-out the build up of it? Thanks /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif
 
Re: Starting to build my single bar anti wrap today, any tips?

I will definitely be taking lots of pictures. This is pretty much my first attempt at fabrication, thus why I don't want to spent a million dollars on tube and all that crap so if I fail, it won't work out.

Unless anyone sees any problems with welding steel to the cast iron differential, I'm going to attempt building this tomorrow as long as I can find a set of bushings. I think I'm going to use 1 1/2" pipe.
 
Re: Starting to build my single bar anti wrap today, any tips?

[ QUOTE ]
Unless anyone sees any problems with welding steel to the cast iron differential, I'm going to attempt building this tomorrow as long as I can find a set of bushings.

[/ QUOTE ]

Jesse didnt seem to have any problems welding to it last weekend. any signs of fatigue on that weld?
 
Re: Starting to build my single bar anti wrap today, any tips?

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Unless anyone sees any problems with welding steel to the cast iron differential, I'm going to attempt building this tomorrow as long as I can find a set of bushings.

[/ QUOTE ]

Jesse didnt seem to have any problems welding to it last weekend. any signs of fatigue on that weld?

[/ QUOTE ]

Jesse had an awful lot more heat than my welder does though, and he made multiple passes, and that wasn't expected to last at all.
 
Re: Starting to build my single bar anti wrap today, any tips?

It looks like that Bambar deal is welded to a truss assembly and not the diff itself.

Unless you have a high end welder I would not try welding directly to the housing and expect it to last. With a small welder I'd weld some brackets to the axle tubes (mild steel instead of ductile cast). You could use a plumbers propane torch to pre-heat the area you're welding. Then bolt the bar end or whatever to those brackets.

Another good possibilty it to fab and weld a bridge from the pinion over the top to the cover and have it bolt on. The are lots of bolts you can use at the pinion and the rear cover. Make a front plate with a 1/4 circle cut out of it and drill two or three holes so it'll bolt to the pinion snout. Make a second plate so it grabs three bolts (or more) on the upper end of the cover (over the cover). Now you can use some plate or whatever works for you to fill in between the two plates. Now you have a bridge you can weld directly to wihtout ever putting any heat into the diff.

Rene
 
Re: Starting to build my single bar anti wrap today, any tips?

So it has to be preheated to get a good weld? Can you expect mild steel to fuse with the cast housing, or is that a pipe dream?
 
Re: Starting to build my single bar anti wrap today, any tips?

Well I've got it all planned out for tomorrow, as long as I can find the bushings, I'm good to go.

I'm just going to crank my little Hobart and see what she can do. If it breaks, I'll try something else.
 
Re: Starting to build my single bar anti wrap today, any tips?

I would suggest avoiding the "bam bar" as there are several problems with it. For one, it does not actually provide stability by itself, it is much like the "standard single bar on top" and it has the same problems. Look at it and think about the forces. What's going to happen when the pinion tries to climb? The axle is going to try to rotate, the "bam bar" is going to stop it from going back on top, but where do the forces go? They are trying to pivot it on the bam bar and the axle wants to go almost straight forward. This put compressive forces on that front span of the leaf, and my truggy is the poster child for the damage that can do. Bent leafs, and if the shaft binds or bottoms, broken cases...

I don't like any anti-wrap system that uses the leafs as one of the stressed "links". The more normal type triangulated bar running forward converts rotational forces at the axle to "jacking" forces on the chassis, but with a long arm, that's not too noticeable for the most part, and can be dealt with using a strap if needed. But at least it does not load the leaf springs…
 
Re: Starting to build my single bar anti wrap today, any tips?

I honestly don't think that is going to be a problem with my 52s or the 63s that are going on it shortly.

This setup offers far more ground clearance than the triangulated single bar, is easier to fabricate, and looks like it can control the pinion much more than the trianguated bar ever could.

With that said, I am noting your pointing out of a shortcoming in the design and I'm going to try to see what I can come up with to counteract those forces.

As to the leaves being a, "link", they are already. They just need a little help controling axle movement.
 
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