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Built my own trac-bars/ladder bars.

Yellow k20- you're irght about the flex issues... but like 54 inches said it's not the same extent of requirement needed as the rocks.

I know if needs to flex, and it flexes well enough to my liking/needs.

Materials was 1/4 plate, for the brackes, the pipe is 1' sch 40? water piping from lowes. ::D:

The welds are but welded, plus I cut 2 slits on either side of the tractor link so the welds run parrallel to the pipe for about 4-6 inches.
 
broncoman6524 said:
Yellow k20- you're irght about the flex issues... but like 54 inches said it's not the same extent of requirement needed as the rocks.

I know if needs to flex, and it flexes well enough to my liking/needs.

Materials was 1/4 plate, for the brackes, the pipe is 1' sch 40? water piping from lowes. ::D:

The welds are but welded, plus I cut 2 slits on either side of the tractor link so the welds run parrallel to the pipe for about 4-6 inches.
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BTW..... I HATE those "redneck dip****s that you refered to with the cheap beer, and rebel flags...
 
broncoman6524 said:
BTW..... I HATE those "redneck dip****s that you refered to with the cheap beer, and rebel flags...
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LOL yeah I wasn't saying thats what you were, your truck isn't setup like theres at all


Keep an eye on your bars and on your mounting brackets for evidence of binding , take a look at the way some of the other guys have built there setup on here. you can do it cheaply and not lose any ground clearance or suspension flex. and get your welder fixed!
 
yellowK20 said:
Your right you dont need the flex when all you do is cruise sonic for highschool chicks and drive through deep puddles LOL

Your more than welcome to come wheel with us Northern boys some time so you can see what I'm talking about we'll make sure you get back to the trailhead!
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Wow you are amazing! Just keep throwing out those insults Nancy. We all know what you are about.:rolleyes:
 
Its ok man dont get your panties in a twist , Dont worry man it'll all buff out. as long as you guys "wheel" on private land and dont make the rest of the offroad community look bad knock your self out.
 
yellowK20 said:
ok,ok I tried but i cant keep quiet on this one.

General Statement/Question

Why is it that all the "deep south" mudders say "I dont need flex I run in the mud"

I grew up in Minnesota with DEEP mud and we still needed our trucks to flex? same with up here in AK .

I guess if all your into is running back and forth through the same pond with 8 rebel flags ,your sister,and a case of the cheapest beer wal-mart sells ,blasting kid-rock , with your mullet flying in the breeze you dont need a suspension that works.

But for actual muddy trails stiff suspension that binds doesn't work very well.

to the O/P its cool that your thinking outside the box but I do see some problems with your design/execution of said design.

the welds.... yeah ,you know what i mean

the materials.... what did you use?? and are the ends just butt welded??

Anyways cool idea way to think cheap and not bad for a first attempt, but you can do it better for just as cheap with a little more research
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Howdiymoble 1.0 before I lowered it had no flex. It wasn't even fun to drive, it just bounced all over

I think it's really just an excuse, most guys running huge big gay mud trucks down here have 4 links now.

EDIT: sorry wrong forum, I didn't know this was the tampax pearl forum :D
 
54inches said:
Nice try. Go do your homework.
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Relax a little...this is CK5.com, not PC-K5.com. Sometimes a little humor can make a point a lot quicker than endless paragraphs of pseudo-tech and 4 stanza's of Kumaya. Just sayin...;)

Rene
 
yellowK20 said:
LOL yeah I wasn't saying thats what you were, your truck isn't setup like theres at all


Keep an eye on your bars and on your mounting brackets for evidence of binding , take a look at the way some of the other guys have built there setup on here. you can do it cheaply and not lose any ground clearance or suspension flex. and get your welder fixed!
Click to expand...


Thanks, and I check the bars and brackets after everytime i drive it.

I don't exactly know how to describe it, but the gas fitting goes into like a "t" fitting. that the wire feeds into, along with the gas leading to the actual torch end thingy??


Anyways, that had came loose. Which let NO gas come down with the wire. :D I basically built 1 bar, without using gas.:eek1: I do plan on taking the bars off, grinding the welds and re-doing them.
 
awesome, let us know how they hold up , keep the rod ends greased !
 
There is another problem with the fact that they may limit flex. If they do in fact limit flex when you flex out it puts a great amount of stress on the mounting points. Trust me you don't want a weld to pop when you are full throttle in a mud hole or pulling some one out.

The other thing is remember you are trying to control rotational movement of the axle housing so putting another bar that would attach to the top of the axle would reduce stress on the mounting points. Thats only one more end link and a little more pipe.

Basically watch the mounting points and look for cracks and stress. Then rebuild as necessary.

I am also in the camp of thinking flex helps alot in the mud. But we only have a couple big places to go here and if you want to have a ton of fun you have to cross the big ruts. Only the flexy trucks do it very well
 
blazinzuk said:
There is another problem with the fact that they may limit flex. If they do in fact limit flex when you flex out it puts a great amount of stress on the mounting points. Trust me you don't want a weld to pop when you are full throttle in a mud hole or pulling some one out.

The other thing is remember you are trying to control rotational movement of the axle housing so putting another bar that would attach to the top of the axle would reduce stress on the mounting points. Thats only one more end link and a little more pipe.

Basically watch the mounting points and look for cracks and stress. Then rebuild as necessary.

I am also in the camp of thinking flex helps alot in the mud. But we only have a couple big places to go here and if you want to have a ton of fun you have to cross the big ruts. Only the flexy trucks do it very well
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Before I even started building these I was debating building an actual "ladder" bar. Much like your describing.


I actually got the rear to hop a bit this afternoon doing a donut....So I might still ad a second bar to the top on each side.
 
broncoman6524 said:
Before I even started building these I was debating building an actual "ladder" bar. Much like your describing.


I actually got the rear to hop a bit this afternoon doing a donut....So I might still ad a second bar to the top on each side.
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If you got it to hop I would add the top bar won't be hard just use the same material, plus its more welding practice. Traction bars are built to eliminate hop.

But as I said before, rock em for now and see how they do then add, change, modify as necessary
 
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