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BULLIT PROOF K5 FOR SALE

Trying to factor in how much it would cost to replace it with another and all the work it would take to get back to where this one is, I'd have to get an insane amount to even consider it.
... and I know it's not worth that to anyone else.

The CK5 motto.
 
Mine is not for sale but I had a guy offer $35,000 just to see if I'd flinch...honestly I wouldn't take $50,000 for it right now....maybe when I get too old to fool with it...but not now.
 
Haha yeah its a nice rig. If you fly out ill drive you to it hahaha!
If I come out to Cali , I won't want to come back here, I can see it, already!LOL....That is a bad ass rig, and he lists everything that he has done, probably got receipts, too. The fact that the guy w/ the 72 does not seem to tell much about his makes me think that he is not really serious about selling.Maybe the "Kevlar " paint(bedliner) makes it worth more.(NOT) It is a nice k5 , but I thought that it should at least have a 60/14 bolt , and real paint!
 
I have had several 69-72 Blazers. I have put 3/4 gears underneath and put a big block in the compartment. With a 4 speed. My friend in Kansas City sent me the clutch pivot bracket so I could fabricate a copy. Those brackets are so rare he gets $100 for one. A 4 speed behind a big block was a special engineering order. Consequently I took photos of the bracket and the one I made as also made a detailed drawing of the fabrication. Firewall needs to be messaged a tad on the passenger side in order to get the valve cover removed.
Not something I would do again, but just had to do it just on account of because.
The Blazer in Paxton is nice, but not $28K nice. Does not even have a tilt wheel or tach dash. Apparently he does not want to sell the truck or he is just testing the water.
 
I've seen some trucks and hot rods guys put 454's in, that had valve cover clearance issues on the drivers side--one way to get around that is to get a Corvette BBC valve cover,some years had a specially formed valve cover on the drivers side,to allow the BBC to fit in the tight engine compartment and not hit the power brake booster..
 
You know , I am a novice, and for $28k , I could build one like Gregs "might as well" minus the mog nine axles! By the way , I am glad you got this c-list ad to work for you cause for the life of me, I could not get it to work! Man , it has been a long day!

Uh...... $28K wouldn't get you very far if you were going "full-MAW" build on a 1st Gen.


Don't get me wrong, this CL dude is smoking crack at $28K, but just to get a 1st Gen fully rust-free, straight and in final paint is easily going to run you $15K (not including the purchase price of the truck) :yikes:

After that.....add your "fun stuff" like 4-link, BBC, EFI, roll cage, 1 Tons or Mog-9s, etc. etc. etc......but those are all big-ticket expenses, and even with "free labor" it all adds up to a big number.


Unfortunately, getting a truck to be "rust free" is the hardest and most expensive step... it's rare to find a truck for sale that has had proper rust repair completed. Usually, it's just a lot of bolt-ons and maybe a quick-and-dirty spray job to make the truck look good enough to sell.


-G
 
Uh...... $28K wouldn't get you very far if you were going "full-MAW" build on a 1st Gen.


Don't get me wrong, this CL dude is smoking crack at $28K, but just to get a 1st Gen fully rust-free, straight and in final paint is easily going to run you $15K (not including the purchase price of the truck) :yikes:

After that.....add your "fun stuff" like 4-link, BBC, EFI, roll cage, 1 Tons or Mog-9s, etc. etc. etc......but those are all big-ticket expenses, and even with "free labor" it all adds up to a big number.


Unfortunately, getting a truck to be "rust free" is the hardest and most expensive step... it's rare to find a truck for sale that has had proper rust repair completed. Usually, it's just a lot of bolt-ons and maybe a quick-and-dirty spray job to make the truck look good enough to sell.


-G
OUCH- I geuss it all depends on how much you pay for the truck in the first place, and how much of the labor you were planning on doing as well. I was thinking no more than $5000.00 on the truck itself , $2000.00 on the ton axles(no mog nines) , another 5k on the engine ......... I geuss when you add everything else in it still goes above $28k!And I would be waiting a long time to find a good first gen for $5k!
 
OUCH- I geuss it all depends on how much you pay for the truck in the first place, and how much of the labor you were planning on doing as well. I was thinking no more than $5000.00 on the truck itself , $2000.00 on the ton axles(no mog nines) , another 5k on the engine ......... I geuss when you add everything else in it still goes above $28k!And I would be waiting a long time to find a good first gen for $5k!

If you have the skills to do ALL the labor yourself, that's going to save you a fortune. But the hard parts really add up too....

Almost any 1st Gen you find for a reasonable price (<$10,000) is going to need a lot of rust repair... so that's floors, cab supports, torsion boxes, bedsides, doors, fenders, etc. Even with reproduction metal (not the high-dollar NOS stuff) that's $5000 right there. Paints, primers, solvents and catalysts are getting really expensive too.... I don't think it's unrealistic to budget $2000 - $3000 for those materials.

That's not to say you can't enjoy one of these early trucks for a lot less money....but if you really mean it when you say you want to do a "Might As Well" type-build and make everything PERFECT, it's going to get expensive.


-G
 
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