DesertDueler
1/2 ton status
I have a 86 Jimmy with a 4" lift from Tuff Country. My problem is I have really bad bumpsteer. I put the steering arm on it, and disconected my sway bar. Does anybody know what else I can do.
CK5
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bumpsteer
- Thread starter DesertDueler
- Start date
85Blazernga
Registered Member
For the ignorant, what is bump steer?
GSB
Forever #3!!
GSB
Forever #3!!
Inspect the frame to make sure it isn't cracked near the steering box. Then make sure the steering box bolts are snug. The best thing I did for my steering was to put on an ORD steering box brace ($100). It's a bolt on and really improved the handling of mine.
79Jimmy
1/2 ton status
Very good suggestion, I found the ORD brace to help out the front end a lot. If that doesn't work for ya then I'd look into a crossover steering setup. I believe ORD has one on the drawing board soon to be released.
James
[email protected]
James
[email protected]
gokartergo
3/4 ton status
I had it to. I put on the sway-bar disconnects and it went away. But you have yours diconnected already. So I would look at the steering box...Dan
Bumpsteer is when you hit a bump and the steeringwheel jerks in your hand. Even when just driving on regular roads with smal irregularities the truck feels unsafe to drive because your gripping the steeringwheel correcting all the time.
# 1 Did you install the lift yourself? Was the front spring eye-bolts tightened after the weight of the vehicle was put back on them?
#2 Do you still have the original steering shock absorber? It may be defective, buy an aftermarked one.
#3 Do the ORD steering box brace.
#2,3 really helped my steering. I did them both at once and now my truck handles great with 35" muds and I still have the sway-bar connected.
Hope I helped some.
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# 1 Did you install the lift yourself? Was the front spring eye-bolts tightened after the weight of the vehicle was put back on them?
#2 Do you still have the original steering shock absorber? It may be defective, buy an aftermarked one.
#3 Do the ORD steering box brace.
#2,3 really helped my steering. I did them both at once and now my truck handles great with 35" muds and I still have the sway-bar connected.
Hope I helped some.
[image]http://wsphotofews.excite.com/033/Yw/3k/re/nO95294.jpg[/image] <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.espen88k5.coloradok5.com>http://www.espen88k5.coloradok5.com</A>
Twiz
1/2 ton status
Bump steer is how much and in what direction the toe (wheels) changes during suspension travel. I our case, if the front suspension compresses- the wheels will turn to the right, if the suspension droops or dips- the wheels turn to the left (generaly- it wil also depend on spring arch, bushings, drag link, etc.)
bump steer is caused by axle laction links (springs) and steering links (drag link) not traveling on the same planes. A link that is 10" long will have a different arc than a link that is 20" long. In our case- the front axle has 3 separte "links" working against each other and the front axle. 1- leaf spring, 2- sway bar, 3- drag link
1-leaf springs, there is realy not much you can do with this. It is the main locating link to the axle and all other links need to work with it, not against it.
2- sway bar, install ORD discannects. This will help elimnate its impact on the front suspension geometry, because when hooked up- they have another (hinge like) piviot point and will eliminate its differnet arc from efecting the axle.
3- steering links or drag links. Drag links should follow the front suspension arc as closely as possible. They should be set up to be as level (horisontily) as possible at the ride height. Theys should not bind in any way threw-out the suspension travel. Unfortunately, short of redesighning the entire front suspension- the stock steering gear is to close to the ale and that makes the drag link to short to elimnate bump steer
-late for work - got to go, I'll polish this off later
Twiztid
bump steer is caused by axle laction links (springs) and steering links (drag link) not traveling on the same planes. A link that is 10" long will have a different arc than a link that is 20" long. In our case- the front axle has 3 separte "links" working against each other and the front axle. 1- leaf spring, 2- sway bar, 3- drag link
1-leaf springs, there is realy not much you can do with this. It is the main locating link to the axle and all other links need to work with it, not against it.
2- sway bar, install ORD discannects. This will help elimnate its impact on the front suspension geometry, because when hooked up- they have another (hinge like) piviot point and will eliminate its differnet arc from efecting the axle.
3- steering links or drag links. Drag links should follow the front suspension arc as closely as possible. They should be set up to be as level (horisontily) as possible at the ride height. Theys should not bind in any way threw-out the suspension travel. Unfortunately, short of redesighning the entire front suspension- the stock steering gear is to close to the ale and that makes the drag link to short to elimnate bump steer
-late for work - got to go, I'll polish this off later
Twiztid
ftn96
1/2 ton status
This is just my opinion here. Bumpsteer is all of the above. The steering dampner will help tremendously, however, most of this is just getting use to the way your rig rides now nad learning how to handle it. I still have the stock steering dampner and a 4" lift.
Most peoples first reaction when they incounter bumpsteer, is to grab the steering wheel and counter act the action that is happening. If you just hold the wheel and dont let it get away from you and let the truck recover. IT WILL RECOVER by itslef. You may have to adjust once it comes back to you. But the worst thing you can do is try to counter act by jerking the wheel in the opposite direction.
My sife was scared $hitless to drive my rig till I taught her how to relax and drive and let the truck do all the work. She now drives it with no problems, other than she pregnant and cant handle the bounciness.
You should get the steering brace by all means to help strengthen the frame from the lift and the tires as it will help the bumpsteer but it WILL NOT make it go away completely..
My president is Steve Fox.
90-350TBI-TCI700-241-33"-10 bolts w/4.10's,
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>
Most peoples first reaction when they incounter bumpsteer, is to grab the steering wheel and counter act the action that is happening. If you just hold the wheel and dont let it get away from you and let the truck recover. IT WILL RECOVER by itslef. You may have to adjust once it comes back to you. But the worst thing you can do is try to counter act by jerking the wheel in the opposite direction.
My sife was scared $hitless to drive my rig till I taught her how to relax and drive and let the truck do all the work. She now drives it with no problems, other than she pregnant and cant handle the bounciness.
You should get the steering brace by all means to help strengthen the frame from the lift and the tires as it will help the bumpsteer but it WILL NOT make it go away completely..
My president is Steve Fox.
90-350TBI-TCI700-241-33"-10 bolts w/4.10's,
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>
DesertDueler
1/2 ton status
I put a dual steering stabalizer on by Rancho. That helped a little bit. The steering arm I put on made the link horizontal. I also retorqed everything again on the ground and it still has bumpsteer. Any other ideas? Thanks for your guys help
Twiz
1/2 ton status
What I was tring to get at earlier, was that;
-with a solid front axle design, bump steer, and wheel shimmy are just part of the beast. It is a fundamental disadvatage to the solid axle design. This is one of meny reasons the new trucks have been going IFS.
In our case- the bump steer is multiplied because of the extreamly short drag link (Dodges are the same way, and if you realy want to see what bump steer is, go drive a Twin traction beam Ford- YIKES!)
All you can reasonably do is. Make sure all the suspension bushings, bolts, and nuts are tight and that there is minimal slop in the suspension. Make sure the drag links and tie-rod ends are in good shape (drag link wear is fairly common on chevs- a qick way to check them, have someone "wiggle" the steering wheel and watch the links for any slop) Make sure the alighnment is spot on, Too much caster (like a motorcycle's front forks) might make it feel like it wants to "dart" and "wander", Also- too much toe out on a solid axle will have the same affect- more or less. Steering dampners might help reduce "bump" steer, but nothing will eliminate it.
What is it doing exactly? Is the steering wheel being jerked when you go over bumps or is it trying to change lanes when you go over a bump?
I hope this helps in understading what bump steer is, understanding the problem is the first step in fixing the problem.
Twiztid
-with a solid front axle design, bump steer, and wheel shimmy are just part of the beast. It is a fundamental disadvatage to the solid axle design. This is one of meny reasons the new trucks have been going IFS.
In our case- the bump steer is multiplied because of the extreamly short drag link (Dodges are the same way, and if you realy want to see what bump steer is, go drive a Twin traction beam Ford- YIKES!)
All you can reasonably do is. Make sure all the suspension bushings, bolts, and nuts are tight and that there is minimal slop in the suspension. Make sure the drag links and tie-rod ends are in good shape (drag link wear is fairly common on chevs- a qick way to check them, have someone "wiggle" the steering wheel and watch the links for any slop) Make sure the alighnment is spot on, Too much caster (like a motorcycle's front forks) might make it feel like it wants to "dart" and "wander", Also- too much toe out on a solid axle will have the same affect- more or less. Steering dampners might help reduce "bump" steer, but nothing will eliminate it.
What is it doing exactly? Is the steering wheel being jerked when you go over bumps or is it trying to change lanes when you go over a bump?
I hope this helps in understading what bump steer is, understanding the problem is the first step in fixing the problem.
Twiztid
Thats about as good as it gets on Ck5 <font color=blue>Twiztid</font color=blue> reallyt took the time to break it down and explain it so it sounds simple.......
I love this place because of people like Twiztid..
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I love this place because of people like Twiztid..
Dont forget to say thanks every once in a while.
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Nice explanation Twizted, sounds dead on...
Bad Dog
85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, NP205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
Soon: 4" lift, 40" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
Bad Dog
85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, NP205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
Soon: 4" lift, 40" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
90K5
1/2 ton status
I don't know how this would affect it, but is the draglink parrallel to the ground, or is it higher near the steering arm? If it is, then its been overcorrected, and you would need a shorter steering arm.
90K5
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90K5
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