Burb buildup - need thoughts

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 87Whitey, Nov 17, 2005.

  1. 87Whitey

    87Whitey Registered Member

    Aug 22, 2005
    Likes Received:
    Hey all, this is my first post to the forums, I am glad I found this site...I have looked and searched on many topics and found a lot of great information. I have been wheeling burbs for the last 2 years, come from a Jeep background in which I have owned, built, and wheeled Jeeps (YJs, TJs, XJs, SJs) for the last 17 years. Sorry for being so long, but figure more info is better

    I have some bonus money coming in from work and am ready to do some upgrades to my 87 burb. I would like to see some comments on my thoughts since spring rates and there effect on burbs is an area I do not have a lot of knowledge. I am not building a rock crawler, I am trying to build for a long highway ride (to get to the backcountry), choppy forest trails, muddy sites, water fording, and some technical trails that have mild rocky areas...
    I spend most of my wheeling time in Southern CO around the Ouray area so trails like Black bear and Poughkeepsie, then around Blanca peak

    Todays specs:

    87 Burb 1/2 ton with 350 FI, 700R4, and NP208 (these are all in great shape)
    Corp 10 front and rear
    Stock leafs with Quad front shocks
    32x11.5s on stock rims
    fresh exhuast system from manifold back (high flow cat, and flowmaster 50)

    What I would like/plan to do:

    Snorkle:Plans for a built it custom to go up the passenger side with an outlet near roof line
    Axles: Replace 10 bolt rear with spare 12 bolt I already have, I would re-gear front and rear to 4.56 or 4.88 (thick gearset for 12bolt) and add a TrueTrac to the 12 bolt leaving the 10bolt front open...I figure since I have the 12bolt sitting around I would spend the money on it instead of the 10bolt under the burb now.
    Tires: 35 or 36 x 12.5s on the stock 15" steel rims (do you think a 16" upgrade for greater load capacity would be worth it?)

    Lift: I want to go as low as possible to keep COG lower...I am thinking a 4" lift and some fender trimming would clear these...I plan to use a higher rate spring such as the BDS, Tough Country HD's, Rough Country, or Superlift
    I am not looking for the most flex and would prefer reduced axle rap to flex...how rough are the Rough Country on the Burbs...I always here the K5 guys complaining, but the Burb has significantly more weight and a longer wheelbase....this is the area that I have the most need for help on, I carry alot of wieght when I travel...roof rack, gas, spare parts, tools, camping gear, 2 100+ pound dogs...since this is not my daily driver I would sacrifice unloaded vehicle ride for increased loaded ride. Also, would a stiff spring (ie..less flex) in a 3" lift and some fender trimming be sufficient for 35's on the stock rims
    I have this nailed on Jeeps (ie...spring rate, lift height, ratios,etc...) just need some helpful advice from you long term K guys

    I appreciate the help on this, I am building now for a trip to BC and up into Alaska come mid-summer 2006, so I am trying to create a long distance, relatively sound (break free), all trail vehicle.


  2. mini_mull

    mini_mull 1/2 ton status

    Jan 22, 2005
    Likes Received:
    Queen Creek, AZ
    I don't have a lot of personal experience, so take my advice with a grain of salt, but I have done a lot of research to find out what mods I wanted to do to my burb (on this site), so here goes. Some guys will tell you, if you go 35" or over you should get a 14BFF instead of a 10 or 12bolt, esp. w/ a heavy burb. Others will say you'll be fine as long as you're not heavy on the throttle. Others will say not to ever spend any dough upgrading a 10 or 12 bolt rear since you can get a 14B for just a cheap, sometimes cheaper. I can vouch for that, as I just picked one up for $100. You can also probably find one with 4.56s in it already and maybe a detroit too (that's the way the military ones come standard in M1009s and M1008s), so you might actually save money and end up with a stronger axle if you play your cards right. As for 3" lift with 35" tires, I do know you have to trim w/ 4" and 35s, so you'll have to trim that much more w/ a 3" lift, but if your willing it'll work great. Some guys hate the NP208s, but since you don't have a high hp motor, most will probably say it will survive, and it has lower gears which is a bonus. Anymore questions, post up. If I haven't ask it already and can relay the answers I got, I'm sure someone else will chime in. Welcome aboard this is an awesome site.

Share This Page