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Burb options

The stock fuel tank on my 90 is 40 gallons. That'll take you a long ways between fillups.

The rear heater on my 90 is mounted on the floor, in the way. On our '94 (first IFS body style) the rear heat is tucked into the sidewall, totally out of the way. It also has the rear a/c blended into the ceiling better so that you aren't always banging your head on it. :blush:

If you really want the pre-IFS body style, then the best rig is a '91 2500 series. It will have a 4L80e tranny. If you aren't planning on a hardcore off roader, go test drive one of the IFS rigs. The ride difference is like night and day! It will hold up just fine as a daily driver/snow transportation rig. :cool1: They're also available with a factory 454/4L80e combo. :cool1: :cool1: That wasn't available in the pre-IFS era with 4WD. :(

Regardless of what you choose, do yourself a favor and get OUT of salt/rust country to make your purchase. You'll be glad you did... :xmas:
 
Thanks for the advice. I am a 73-87/91 bodystyle junkie. The IFS sheet metal is ok but I love the 73-87/91. :grin: I also am anti computer and electronics for my trucks. And to get out of the rust/salt area I have to go a good ways. I know someone on here had just bought a 4x4 burb w/ barn doors minus engine/trans and transfer for like $200 and the body was mint. But IIRC that also was on the west coast. And for me to go a long ways out of state to haul a project truck back would most always be cost inefficient since I live in Maine. And @10mpg and the price of fuel... I don't go far cheap I'm afraid. I will most likely have to search around here and be patient for a good deal to come around. A $200 rust free deal (like afore mentioned) can turn into a $1,000 pain real quick with cost of a trip. :( Don't get me wrong I wish I could afford to go out west and get a rust free burb the way I want it, but in reality it is more sensible to find something around here that will be a better deal/project. I have heard the burb's rear quarters rust like nothing on the planet. But I guess that is just something I will have to deal with when the time comes.
 
Also the body on the 73-80 burb is the same as the 81-87 right? Meaning take the front clip off and they are the same. Depending on what I find I may end up doing a front clip swap on it. :grin:
 
big_truxx said:
Also the body on the 73-80 burb is the same as the 81-87 right? Meaning take the front clip off and they are the same. Depending on what I find I may end up doing a front clip swap on it. :grin:
All burbs from 73-91 have the exact same tub. Front clips changed in 81 with the shorter hood. So if you have a 80's tub you can still put on a 70's front clip with no problems, but if you have a 70's tub and an 80's front clip, you'll have to mod the firewall for the hood hinges or figure out a way to mount the 70's hinges to the 80's fenders.

Did they ever have an option for dual tanks? Also how is the burb tank mounted?
Saddle tanks were never offered as an option on burbs. Cause of the second door tho, you'd prolly have to mount the fill tube thru the rear wheel well.

Any other questions, pm me again
 
I have a 32 gallon tank, wish I had the 40, looked around yards for one but didn't want one enough to buy one new. I like the older body styles too but a family vehicle that you have to pop the hood on sometimes isn't fun. Must say that was the nice thing about my 95 and 97 pickups, I didn't have a worry in the world driving them across the country. On the 95 I had to worry about gas(4.10s and 31s will do that) and the 97 I had to worry about the intake leak, but that is fixed now. I drove my Burb for 6 hours straight ot get here. Before that I drove it 3 hours both ways to visit my girl up in NY. But the idea of taking a trip home for the weekend(as a few people want me to) is not appealing.
 
sled_dog said:
I like the older body styles too but a family vehicle that you have to pop the hood on sometimes isn't fun. Must say that was the nice thing about my 95 and 97 pickups, I didn't have a worry in the world driving them across the country.

I drove my 82 from Maine to kentucky/tennesse w/ no prob. Then from there to florida back to ky,tn area, then to fl again and then to Maine. No problems. :grin: And if you know your vehicle and take good care of it you should not worry about taking it places. Also my mom's 97 ext cab dually w/ 454 vortec had a bit of bad gas from the gas station in it once. Caused a lot of hell with the motor. They ended up having to replace all the injectors and possibly more. Not cheap by any means at a dealership 1500 miles from home!! :yikes: Yeah the IFS may right smoother, but all my trucks will have the same parts. I like to have everything the same so in the event I need something I may just have it in the yard already in an emergency. :dunno: Just me I guess. I have really not had issues with running the 73-87/91 style trucks and been there done that with them. Even been to arizona and back going through texas from maine to visit family there with an old 79 c20 hauling a horsetrailer. ;)
 
1990 Chevy Suburban 350 at, 4x4, 33" tires, body good needs trans work, $600

One of the reasons I like to shop locally for the 73-87-91 trucks. :grin:
 
cbbr said:
That sounds like a good deal even if you have to replace the tranny.

:grin: Yes and if I am patient I will find something like that when I do have the money to buy it. LOL I find the best deals when I am broke. :dunno: what's up with that.

Also all trucks, blazers and burbs have the same roofline right?
 
big_truxx said:
:grin: Yes and if I am patient I will find something like that when I do have the money to buy it. LOL I find the best deals when I am broke. :dunno: what's up with that.

Also all trucks, blazers and burbs have the same roofline right?
Isn't that always the case, I know it is with me LOL


Sort of, but in general yes. There was a slight change in the roof line over the years.
 
91 was last year with solid front axle...
91-89 were EFI i believe..
the R version were 2wd; V were 4wd & 1500/2500 for 1/2-3/4 ton versions.

Love my 91! added 3/4 ton axles to it for towing along with larger radiator & tranny cooler. Have on board air (for the horn of course), barn doors, silverado pkg and 201,000 miles on her. wouldn't hesitate to go x-country tomorrow in it.

Hope that helps.
 
Thanks woody! I am learning a lot about burbs.


As for the roofline, why I had asked was I am thinking about putting together a truck limo with "spare" pieces over the next few years of part/truck collecting. I will either go with all burb or all crew cab for simplicity. I think burb may be better as I would only have one grapht (sp) to do with 2 bodies. I would need 3-4 crew cabs to get the length and have a lot of welding and filling doors... So the burb wins after a bit of thought for that project. :grin:
 
Check down around Boston. There's an airport limo service there that used to use 8-door Suburbans. :eek: They're just 2WD, but I'd bet it would would be eaiser to convert one of those to 4WD than it would be to do a stretch job. :cool1:
 
you might want to cut open the body streach the burb the make/have sheat meatle made to copy the lines so you have a soild section, insted of a bunch of doors.
as far as the roof lines lok to this thread http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=121361

muddytazz, will tell you about the body lines on the roof of burbs.

or if your at the store look for a mag called the dupoint regestry.

it has listings for a ton of luxuty autos for sale, i saw a nice 17 passenger burb in one sweet.


and i used to have a pic of a pick up streched out literily 25 40 feet long, with a full sized bed, and a 15 hell mabey 20 " lift on 44,

the back door folded down with stairs on the inside like an airplane.!
 
HarryH3 said:
Check down around Boston. There's an airport limo service there that used to use 8-door Suburbans. :eek: They're just 2WD, but I'd bet it would would be eaiser to convert one of those to 4WD than it would be to do a stretch job. :cool1:

Yes I have seen the 8 door, 15 passenger burbs. They are cool looking. :) But I am going for a totally custom job here. Something to do in my "spare" time and use up some "spare" parts I know I will aquire over the next few years. As for the stretch job, well the frame I already have covered. I would use a free/cheap C-70 frame from something like a long flatbed. Then I would make up the apropriate mounts for drivetrain and body. That way I have a strong frame and do not have to cut and weld and still fabricate. :) And if I were to use 2 burbs, I would cut the 1st right in front of the tail gate and the 2nd right in front of the 2nd set of doors. When graphted back together you have the front two sets of doors, the 2nd set I feel would be best welded and filled with sheet metal to preserve correct body lines and to eliminate the doors, then after that you have the window followed by a single set of doors and another window and the rear doors/tailgate. So you would enter the passenger compartment in the middle and have a whole lot of room to the left and right for couches etc etc. Also I believe that the rear in this limo setup would be best done with a tialgate (even though I love the barn doors) because with a power rear window, you could acess the bed from the interior. :grin: Maybe one of these days I will get around to editing pics in photoshop to post up a rough draft idea. ;)
 
here's a rough edit to show what it could look like;

stretchburb.jpg

this is of course w/o a bed behind it all :grin:
 
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