big_truxx
1/2 ton status
The rear heater is in the way of folding down the seat but the rear a/c is not right?
They're also available with a factory 454/4L80e combo.
That wasn't available in the pre-IFS era with 4WD. 

I also am anti computer and electronics for my trucks. And to get out of the rust/salt area I have to go a good ways. I know someone on here had just bought a 4x4 burb w/ barn doors minus engine/trans and transfer for like $200 and the body was mint. But IIRC that also was on the west coast. And for me to go a long ways out of state to haul a project truck back would most always be cost inefficient since I live in Maine. And @10mpg and the price of fuel... I don't go far cheap I'm afraid. I will most likely have to search around here and be patient for a good deal to come around. A $200 rust free deal (like afore mentioned) can turn into a $1,000 pain real quick with cost of a trip.
Don't get me wrong I wish I could afford to go out west and get a rust free burb the way I want it, but in reality it is more sensible to find something around here that will be a better deal/project. I have heard the burb's rear quarters rust like nothing on the planet. But I guess that is just something I will have to deal with when the time comes.
All burbs from 73-91 have the exact same tub. Front clips changed in 81 with the shorter hood. So if you have a 80's tub you can still put on a 70's front clip with no problems, but if you have a 70's tub and an 80's front clip, you'll have to mod the firewall for the hood hinges or figure out a way to mount the 70's hinges to the 80's fenders.big_truxx said:Also the body on the 73-80 burb is the same as the 81-87 right? Meaning take the front clip off and they are the same. Depending on what I find I may end up doing a front clip swap on it.![]()
Saddle tanks were never offered as an option on burbs. Cause of the second door tho, you'd prolly have to mount the fill tube thru the rear wheel well.Did they ever have an option for dual tanks? Also how is the burb tank mounted?
sled_dog said:I like the older body styles too but a family vehicle that you have to pop the hood on sometimes isn't fun. Must say that was the nice thing about my 95 and 97 pickups, I didn't have a worry in the world driving them across the country.
And if you know your vehicle and take good care of it you should not worry about taking it places. Also my mom's 97 ext cab dually w/ 454 vortec had a bit of bad gas from the gas station in it once. Caused a lot of hell with the motor. They ended up having to replace all the injectors and possibly more. Not cheap by any means at a dealership 1500 miles from home!!
Yeah the IFS may right smoother, but all my trucks will have the same parts. I like to have everything the same so in the event I need something I may just have it in the yard already in an emergency.
Just me I guess. I have really not had issues with running the 73-87/91 style trucks and been there done that with them. Even been to arizona and back going through texas from maine to visit family there with an old 79 c20 hauling a horsetrailer. 

cbbr said:That sounds like a good deal even if you have to replace the tranny.
Yes and if I am patient I will find something like that when I do have the money to buy it. LOL I find the best deals when I am broke.
what's up with that.Isn't that always the case, I know it is with me LOLbig_truxx said:Yes and if I am patient I will find something like that when I do have the money to buy it. LOL I find the best deals when I am broke.
what's up with that.
Also all trucks, blazers and burbs have the same roofline right?


They're just 2WD, but I'd bet it would would be eaiser to convert one of those to 4WD than it would be to do a stretch job. 
HarryH3 said:Check down around Boston. There's an airport limo service there that used to use 8-door Suburbans.They're just 2WD, but I'd bet it would would be eaiser to convert one of those to 4WD than it would be to do a stretch job.
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But I am going for a totally custom job here. Something to do in my "spare" time and use up some "spare" parts I know I will aquire over the next few years. As for the stretch job, well the frame I already have covered. I would use a free/cheap C-70 frame from something like a long flatbed. Then I would make up the apropriate mounts for drivetrain and body. That way I have a strong frame and do not have to cut and weld and still fabricate.
And if I were to use 2 burbs, I would cut the 1st right in front of the tail gate and the 2nd right in front of the 2nd set of doors. When graphted back together you have the front two sets of doors, the 2nd set I feel would be best welded and filled with sheet metal to preserve correct body lines and to eliminate the doors, then after that you have the window followed by a single set of doors and another window and the rear doors/tailgate. So you would enter the passenger compartment in the middle and have a whole lot of room to the left and right for couches etc etc. Also I believe that the rear in this limo setup would be best done with a tialgate (even though I love the barn doors) because with a power rear window, you could acess the bed from the interior.
Maybe one of these days I will get around to editing pics in photoshop to post up a rough draft idea. 
