Buying a plow on CL

[MassMan]

Well, I've got the old front bracket/strap now mounted to the rear of the pump and the brackets added to mount all that in top of the PS pump bracket. The PO used some oddball mounts for the PS pump and everything's spaced with stacks of washers. It's taking a while, but it's better than buying a new bracket setup and finding out it doesn't work with the crazy stuff that's on there now.

As for the belt drive, my water pump has a 5" pulley that will line up with the hydraulic pump's 5" pulley just fine. The water pump is driven off the crank's 8" pulley onto its 6.5", making it about 1.2:1 drive. What kind of RPMs does the hydraulic pump expect? I really don't want to buy a pulley for the crank, but a 6" replacement on the pump would get me very close to the engine speed. Maybe I'm over-thinking this a bit.

 

[sweetk30]

well can tell you this . some guys over the years find the pump gets week and thay have over drivin it a little like you want to do and it works fine.

just watch the rpm's dont get stupid crazy and also if long trips remove the belt.

 

[MassMan]

Sweet! She won't be leaving the driveway for a while still, but I'll plan on pulling the belt before I hit the street. Thanks for the help!

 

[diesel4me]

Sweet K30's joystick setup is much better than mine is set up,under the dash on both my trucks,it jams into my left knee all the time!...I thought about moving it where he mounted it,but I didn't feel like sawing the dash up.....................................................................................................One thing to be aware of,once you get the valve body mounted,I'd get the valve pistons where the cables hook up too moving freely before putting the cables on them,you may have to tap them with a small hammer after spraying some penetrant around them to get them freed up...after you get the cables attached,be sure both are adjusted so both pistons are in the "neutral" position,this is important,because if they aren't,one valve will be applying pressure and it can overheat the fluid to the point it'll start on fire!...........................................................................................I think a slight "overdive" as far as the pulley ratios wont be a big deal,provided you dont go hundreds of miles at high RPMs--most fisher pumps are slow after some use too,and speeding them up a bit helps...take the belt off if you plan too take a long trip,as Sweet K30 said...the electric clutches are nice,but can be costly and might not decide to work one day when its needed most,I just stick with the old way...seeing the plow pumps are the same as your P/S pump and they go 100K without any issues,I dont see why the Fisher one wouldn't last just as long...what kills most of them is running them low on fluid after a hose failed more than anything IMO---.....................................On my pump I lacked the rear bracket,I found a "riser clamp" at a plumbing supply store fit around it perfect,and I used a 3/8" threaded thing I saw at Home Depot that has a flattened end and a hole drilled in it ,just like what I was going to make out of threaded rod,that fit perfect...I think it may have been something used on a suspended ceiling tile grid,to tighten the wires???...anyway,it was a cheap perfect fit!......the rear bracket just stabilizes the pump and keeps it "straight" in line with the belt ,the front bracket does 90% of the work.............................................on my 85 Suburban its A/C compressor was "deleted" so I mounted my plow pump where it used to go,it was childs play to mount it...I ran the belt to the A/C pulley ,only bummer is its the "last" belt ,so the other two have to come off if the belt needs replacing...I may change that to run off a Fisher pulley that bolts behind the water pump pulleys I found on a junkyard 6.2 plow truck instead,that'll make belt changes much easier....