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Bypass shock questions

bigblock72

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I'm looking into getting some bypass shocks for the rear of my Blazer and I am not sure what valving I should get or if it's even the right thing to do.

I use this rig for just about everything from loading it down with 5 people and all of our camping gear for 4 days to running the sand dunes with 6 passengers to running trails in Moab, high speed runs in the desert etc. So I would like to have the adjustability of a bypass with the capacity and cooling of a large body shock.

I have run several types of shocks and currently have some 14" travel Bilstein 5150s and can overheat them and render them useless in 30 minutes out in the desert. The other problem is I can't/won't cut the floor to mount the shocks to the cage where they probably should be since this is the family truckster. I have instead moved the shocks outboard and made long brackets below the housing to allow the use of long shocks and they have worked fine for the Bilsteins. Not ideal obviously, but a huge improvement over the stock mounting location and I now have 14" of usable travel. I will have to lengthen and strengthen the axle brackets to work with the longer bypass shocks.

I have saved enough money to get a pair of FOA 14" bypasses and a pair of 4" x 2 1/2 bumps. I have had a set of FOA 16" coilovers and bumps on the front for close to 5 years now with zero issues so I'm not worried too much about them.

Thoughts, since I am quite ignorant about bypass shocks and have a less than ideal setup.
 
I'm looking into getting some bypass shocks for the rear of my Blazer and I am not sure what valving I should get or if it's even the right thing to do.

I use this rig for just about everything from loading it down with 5 people and all of our camping gear for 4 days to running the sand dunes with 6 passengers to running trails in Moab, high speed runs in the desert etc. So I would like to have the adjustability of a bypass with the capacity and cooling of a large body shock.

I have run several types of shocks and currently have some 14" travel Bilstein 5150s and can overheat them and render them useless in 30 minutes out in the desert. The other problem is I can't/won't cut the floor to mount the shocks to the cage where they probably should be since this is the family truckster. I have instead moved the shocks outboard and made long brackets below the housing to allow the use of long shocks and they have worked fine for the Bilsteins. Not ideal obviously, but a huge improvement over the stock mounting location and I now have 14" of usable travel. I will have to lengthen and strengthen the axle brackets to work with the longer bypass shocks.

I have saved enough money to get a pair of FOA 14" bypasses and a pair of 4" x 2 1/2 bumps. I have had a set of FOA 16" coilovers and bumps on the front for close to 5 years now with zero issues so I'm not worried too much about them.

Thoughts, since I am quite ignorant about bypass shocks and have a less than ideal setup.

I would just do a nice 2.5" shock in the rear and not a bypass. They're noisy and honestly once the novelty of them wears off I bet you don't touch them for changing conditions.

A 2.5" shock with an air bump does a lot of work. Keep in mind that with bigger nicer shocks hot is relative as well. What we think is hot isn't basically.
 
I am running ford raptor 2.5" internal bypasses front and rear.

The rears are mounted at about a 30* angle forward and down have as much rebound as id like (but a valve change can easily solve that)

But my fronts are mounted verticle and oh man do they work sweet. When i lifted and went crossover and ditched the swaybar, it was all wobbly around corners, now i can hit corners like im in my car and it doesnt roll.


So my point is, try and mount them more verticle, I may redo my upper mounts as i know i can get mine more verticle. But i built the upper mounts a while ago and my fab skills were not the best yet and i never thought of making a new crossmember, but wanted to use what was there....

And you can find raptor shocks online all the time because for some reason raptor owners buy trucks with fancy shocks, then rip them off to put more expensive shocks on.... :dunno:

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What Brandon (miniwally) said. Do the air bumps first. Bypasses aren't really designed to be constantly adjusted for loads.

DON'T BY FOA!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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