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C-Clip Eliminator kit?

Kocher93

1/2 ton status
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Jul 5, 2011
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Campbell, CA
I'm pretty bad when it comes to anything but a full floating axle, would a C-clip eliminator kit strengthen my rear end? Is it worth the 100 bucks? I'm going to be on 33s for a long time most likely...
 
They are generally not a good idea on heavy trucks like ours. The side loading that can be seen on these trucks is very different from that seen by a car, and they tend to fail more often on our trucks. I would say save your cash and either get a 6 lug 14sf out of a newer light 3/4 ton and have the perches moved, or get an 8 lug 14sf out of a burb to swap in, either are going to be much stronger than the 10 bolt you have now. Or you could save and find a 14bff but it is a bit overkill for 33's.
 
Is this that little bearing retainer kit they sell for drag cars? Maybe you can post a link to it. Is the kit any stronger than the C-clip it replaces? A break near the wheel bearing is a disaster either way. If the concern is the wheel falling off with a broken axleshaft, a disc brake conversion helps you get off the road/trail- at least if the break is in near the splines.
 
Right so that answered that, thanks guys. It did turn out to be the one for drag cars. I would like to go to 37s but I can't afford a dana 60, a 14bff is no problem. Could I get away with a 44? Also can I use my 15inch 8 lug wheels with a 8 lug front? or will the caliper grind? Also could I DD my blazer if I had a welded 14bff?
 
37" on 10 bolt or 44 will be fine if you watch how you wheel . but will be at limits.

yes grind calipers a little bit but fit.

and welded yes but thay handle a lot diffrently if in snow or wet roads.
 
I ran 38s on a 44 for a good long time with no breakage. However, you will find that you'll go through ball joints frequently - I was going through them about every year and a half or so. You get good at replacing them quick, though! :)
 
Sweet, I love you guys. I no longer have to aimlessly search google. Could I get a posi for the front? or just leave it open? I'm very cautious when it comes to wheelin it I always feel like somethings breaking at every turn, so I tend not to have a heavy foot.
 
Alright. One last question, do I need to re weld the spring plates on the 14 bolt? and if so how do you go about lining it all up?
 
c-clip eliminator kit
 

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14 ff from 3/4 ton truck is bolt in for 1/2 ton and blazer / burbs .

if 1 ton then yes need to move them and shock tabs.
 
I don't know if this is the best way, but I'd bolt the springs in the truck and then get the spring perches sitting on the axle tubes with the axle under the truck. I'd line everything up there, tack the perches in place, and then pull the axle back out to have plenty of space to get real nice welds. I'd do something similar for the shock mounts.
 
I don't know if this is the best way, but I'd bolt the springs in the truck and then get the spring perches sitting on the axle tubes with the axle under the truck. I'd line everything up there, tack the perches in place, and then pull the axle back out to have plenty of space to get real nice welds. I'd do something similar for the shock mounts.

Yea I'd make it to where I wouldn't need shims, that's the same why I'm thinking, and for shocks I'd probably just redo the whole setup
 
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