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calling out the machinists

1BURBAN

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this is not k5 related but I am at a loss as where to get help and this place has all the answers. so here goes, I am rebuilding an engine in a massey ferguson 150 tractor. said tractor has full floating wrist pins. I have installed new bushings in all the rods and need to ream them to get the pins to float. I need to find a drill bit that will ream them out to .860" or 8.6/10 any ideas, can you get bits in mm what would be the closest safe overage? bear in mind this is a tractor engine and will not see over 2000 rpm. any help is greatly appreciated.
 
McMaster Carr (www.mcmaster.com) has like every drill size known to man
including the 55/64" (0.8594") which took me all of like 2 mins to find

go exploring and i bet you can find your drill... may not be cheap, but they do sell it.

they also will have the precision reams to do it properly
 
DO NOT drill the pin bushings, they need to be honed to proper size. Any machine shop can do this for you and should only cost about 5.00 per bushing.
 
DO NOT drill the pin bushings, they need to be honed to proper size. Any machine shop can do this for you and should only cost about 5.00 per bushing.



This is correct info. Reaming is a no-no, and NEVER use a drill for that. It must be Honed to if its done right.
 
We get plenty of business from PO'd customers that come in from other machine shops that ream stuff instead of boring/honing... most of the time it ends up being a few thousandths over-size... so as everyone else is saying, don't ream.
 
We get plenty of business from PO'd customers that come in from other machine shops that ream stuff instead of boring/honing... most of the time it ends up being a few thousandths over-size... so as everyone else is saying, don't ream.

Geez Avery how are we supposed to get carnage pics when you give good advice like that
 
haha, well in most cases a few thousandths over-size is enough that the bushings will slip in and out so you wouldn't be able to put it together anyways... so no carnage pics. :)
 
Thank you guys soooo much for the informative responses.:bow: We defiantly do not want carnage pics. have you ever seen whats involved in getting a Massey Ferguson tractor engine out :eek1:.
 
Is this it?
266139-1.jpg


I just did a Google image search out of curiosity. :D
 
How in the **** did you get the engine out with the front end loader attached?
 
removed the steering pedestal, rigged it up tight, dropped a chain fall off the engine hoist and pulled it up, lift engine hoist till it hit the ceiling, then proceed to muscle f#@* the engine out the left hand side of the tractor. That is after fighting the front axle and steering assembly loose from the engine. engine=frame in a tractor of this vintage. did I mention I hate working on tractors.
 
I had to spilt tractors also when my family had a dairy farm 10 yrs ago. The first step was to remove the front end loader which is kind of hard when the tractor inoperable but doable. I’ve seen others do it the same way. You are the first I’ve seen attempt it with the loader still attached. I'm surprised you could even get the front steering assembly forward enough so the clutch assembly could clear the bellhousing in the back.
 
well on this massey model the steering assemble only consists of the steering shaft drag link battry box and upper guage cluster. it bolts to the bellhousing with 2 studs. wasn't really difficult to remove, just heavy. it dosn't hurt that I did crane and rigging for a couple of years, kinda teaches you how to fit that square peg in the round hole.
 
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