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Cam advice

de3en16

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I'm looking for advice on a cam choice for my TBI 350 it's smoking a lot mostly because of the valve stem seals, it goes through about a quart of oil a week now. I'm wanting to put vortec heads on it and over haul it while I've got it out most of the gaskets and seals are leake a little. I thought it might be a good idea to upgrade my cam. But I don't know a lot about cams. I was looking for idle to 4500 rpm. I don't push my truck very hard. The most rpm it sees is 3500 out on the freeway pulling steep hills. On trails it's a 1000 to 2000 rpm. Thanks
 
Thanks I'll check it out and give them a call.
 
Just an FYI, if you are going the Vortec/new cam route, you are going to need the PROM tuned too.
 
I'm working on getting everything I need to start data logging now so I can get a baseline before I make changes.
 
I'm working on getting everything I need to start data logging now so I can get a baseline before I make changes.
There's nothing about data from your engine now that will help to the changes you are doing.

Vortec heads alone, without a cam needs big changes to chip/bin file to start.

For your budget you also need a new intake for the Vortec heads. Will also need at least 15 psi fuel pressure with stock injectors.

HTH! :D
 
If you are going to change cams, go roller. Your block should be set up for it already, you will just have to drill and tap a few holes possibly.

Martin
 
Stock vortec rollers can be had cheap and would work pretty good or a stock lt1 can.
 
The data logging is mainly for me so I can get a better understanding of how things work so when changes made I understand why. I was planing on a new intake but I didn't know about upping my fuel persure. I have mine set at 12 right now. What would be a good pump in case the one I have won't hold up too 15?

I'm looking for a roller lifter cam I'm just the one that would best fit my needs. I like the kits comp cams offers.

Thanks for all the replies.
 
Seriously, seriously, think about going to one of the LS series motors. If it makes sense for you, great. If not, fine.

Now a days, I wouldn't touch an old school small block unless it was to keep it going. Once you get into new heads, new intake, cam, etc, you can probably get into an LS motor for that same ballpark $ wise. Plus you get more potential, more power out of the box and factory reliable fuel injection.

As a guy that built (what was a) pretty decent 383 about a decade ago or so, I wouldn't do it again. It was fine, it's always made good power. But now-a-days, for the money, how can you not go that route?
 
Yes if your into a huge project!
Find a motor, haul it home, hope it's good then Motor mounts, fabrication, exhaust, cooling, oil pan, belts, pulleys, pumps altenator, wiring harness rewire, remove old harness, falshing PCM... :eek1:

For a fuel pump replacement AC Delco 1990 Camaro TPI or 96-97 Vortec truck pumps look identical and bolt in.
 
I like the gen III 5.3 or 6.0 swap ideas already listed. My mom has a 2005 1500 pickup with the 5.3. It does surprisingly well for such a small compact engine. I am having my 406 rebuilt for my pickup, but if I didn't already have $3k in the heads, close to a grand in the headers, and all the other money wrapped up in gen I parts, I would consider one of the newer platforms. Plus, my engine is not computer controlled so it is easy to supply enough air and fuel from a bigger carb.

I even read an article where they put two turbos on the small Gen III (they thought it was a 5.3 until they tore it down after making something like a thousand hp). They ran block and heads in stock configuration with a bunch of boost and it held up.

It just seems like there is a lot of potential in the new engines and the old TBI is very limited. I went stock GM tbi crate engine for my K5 as I didn't want to deal with the swap right now. I really wish it had more power, especially when I compare it to the torque monster in my pickup.

I am going with a roller cam and rockers in my 4.6 rebuild. Comp cams says the roller cams can be about 10 degrees smaller on duration than a flat tappet cam and still give the same power or better. I went from a 224/224 and 470 lift to a roller that is 212/218 with a 487/495 valve lift. The funny part is that the old cam is advertised as a 270 and the new roller is a 264/270. Even though the actual duration is less, the advertised is close. My engine guy also said that he worked with comp to find a cam that was suitable for the size of my heads. The heads have a lot of porting and are huge compared to what he would normally run for a truck engine.

A 383 or 406 sbc will need more cam than a 350. A computer controlled engine will need certain specs to keep the computer happy. Compression ratio makes a big difference as well. You need a really good engine guy to work with you to make a choice.

The guy I am using is very particular and has built enough engines to know what combos work. He is also a land speed racer and pushes a 268 cu in. v8 to its limits for his class. We will see how his work does. A family friend is best friends with him, so this recommendation means more than the last shops, but I have had problems with other engine shops that had good reputations.

I have always heard that brian at tbichips.com is the guru on tbi performance engines.

The other benefit to a late model engine is that the parts are probably easier to find. Some of the odds and ends like smog equipment or vaccum sensors are expensive and not as common now. I am in California and have to pass smog, both visual and on the dyno with the sniffer. I haven't had to dig into the tbi on my K5 yet, but I'll bet it is less common than the 5.3's from the mid 2000's.
 
I would love one of the new LS type engines I agree they are a better but the cost is way out of control where I live. I seen a 6.0 going for $2600 in used but running condition. My father in law built a few race engines and has a collection of over 30 vintage cars and trucks. He has 1 1917 4 seater 3 1934 chevy cars and a 1967 SS camaro 1968 SS RS camaro and a 1969 camaro to name a few. We have the tools to and some know how but a 4x4 is a little diffrant as far as engines goes. I've tried looking around for used engines but I'm about 5 hours drive from a dissent scrap yard or shop that might have what I need, I live just south of the I15 I70 interchange in utah anyone that has been there will know what I mean. So to keep cost down as much as I can I'm going to stick with what I have. I know my engine block is in good shape for a rebuild I'm getting a scope so I can see inside to get a better idea on how much machine work my block will need I'm all ready planing on doing some. My oil pressure stays above 30 at idle so I think my crank is ok. I'm going to test my compression on my next week off of work to see where it's at. Thanks Jim
 

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