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Can a 6.2 starter be rebuilt?

tRustyK5

tRustyK5

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Ahhh, yes. Start up day. Purged all the air out of the lines by cranking it over 15 seconds at a time (2-5 minute rests) with the injector lines cracked. With the glow plugs out it spun over decently...but I did feel it was sorta slow. Once we figured the majority of the air was purged we put the GP's back in, hooked em up and tightened the injector lines back up.

Finally I thought we'd hear it run. I hooked a third battery to the two in the truck and then a 4th with jumper cables (in a running Jeep) I should have had enough juice to power a small town...it turned over, just not as quickly as it should have. After a couple of tries it ran for about 5 seconds...I was so surprised it started I let off the gas and it died.../forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

With 4 batteries it just does not turn over worth a damn IMHO. From what I've read it needs about 200 RPM. I think the starter was somewhat weak already and all the cranking, even though it was never more than 15 seconds, finished the starter off. Can it be rebuilt? Would a new set of brushes and a new solenoid help? Is rebuilding it a waste of time and money?

Rene
 
Sure they can. My starter on my Vette was doing the "slow start" thing. You'ld swear the battery was bad (it was new). Pulled the starter out (PITA) and found the contacts in the solenoid burnt. Soleniod = $12.00 @ NAPA. Better to rebuild that get some cheap imported crap. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
I have never had one rebuilt, but I know of others who have. I would check into it.

Definitely sounds like your starter is toast.

Word of warning: If you decide to buy a new starer, don't buy one of those lifetime warranty starters from the auto store. I have, and I end up having to replace it about once a year. They just aren't built right for some reason. If you do buy a new starter, get an AC Delco unit. You might even want to get the newer style gear-reduction type.

Here's a good source for GM diesel starters:

http://www.treasurestate.com/diesel/electrical.htm

Casey
 
I have the starter I got with the donor motor which is smaller than the starter that the 83 came with. I think the one in my truck now is the gear reduction starter. I'm hoping a new solenoid and brushes will do the trick...if not I'm dead in the water until I find work again./forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

At least it sounded good for the few seconds I heard it run.../forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Rene
 
I used to rebuild my starters, and I would do it but with your symptoms I would check something before I rebuild it.
If you know how to check the windings, check them with an OHM meter. I had a starter that had the same thing, and it turned out to be 2 out of the four were toast. The second thing you need to make sure of is the bearings or the bushings on each end, if there is no play just grease them.
ALso check the rotor ( I don't know if that is the right technical word /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif ) and clean the grooves between the coper lines where the brushes touch, they someitmes have coper dust in the gunk and they bridge the gap and you get no power.
If all these things are dealt with and check ok and you still can't turn the engine fast enough with 2 batteries, then you have a tight engine or, like in my case a bad crank that is binding.
/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
Hi,


Just to let you know that the starter can be rebuilt but I just want to tell you that 2-weeks ago I called around looking for a starter solenoid for a gear reduction starter and a guy told me he had one for 40.00 CDN. and when I got there it was the wrong one. No body had the right one jobber anywhere at all. So I called my friend at G.M. and he gave me a price quote of 230.00 dollars just for the solenoid and 750.00 for the whole starter (gear reduction)and that is at garage price for me. So ABSOLUTLY bring your old solenoid with you when looking for a new one . There is a plunger on it as well that doesnt seem to come off either. The mating surface of your solenoid where it meets the starter should be kinda football shaped with NO tab... all the wrong ones have this tab that gets in the way between the solenoid and the starter body /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gifand also has no plunger built in to pull the bendix. Hope this helps
Mike
P.S my whole family now lives in Surrey B.C.. Beautiful place it is.
Good luck, and IF you find a correct jobber solenoid would you please drop me a p/m, with the makers name and part number /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Casey, that is the starter on the truck right now. I do have a regular starter from the 83 parts truck too, but I think it's in worse shape. I think tonight i will do some disassembling and inspecting and see what parts may be bad.

Thanks for the links and pic's!!

rene
 
Hey Mike, thanks for the heads up on the solenoid. I'll do some checking around and see what I find...

Welcome to Surrey!

Rene
 
one more thing to check is DID YOU RUN A GROUND CABLE TO THE BLOCK FROM BOATH BATTERYS? I know you just did a diesel swap so could be. When I compleeted my swap I ran one battery to the block and one to the frame /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif. It did just like yours. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
Hey good catch, I almost burned a starter doing that.
Most people over look it. Hooked a ground from frame to engine and I was crancking with one battery.
 
I had a few starter problems a few years ago, and decided to have mine rebuilt by a starter/alternator shop. He said it would be better than new and put in a heavy duty plunger spring and whatever else he did to it. It cost me about $30 and havent had a problem since.
 
Good catch. The way it is currently is one ground to the block and one to the frame and then one ground from each battery to the core support...lastly a ground strap from the block to the firewall. So each battery should be grounded to the block?/forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

I took the reduction starter apart tonight and had a look at what was wrong. There is a round plate that holds the brushes together in 4 separate 'mounts' at the rear of the starter. Two of the 'brush mounts' are riveted directly to the round steel plate (ground side) and two brush mounts are riveted to a rigid insulated material that is bonded to the steel plate (positive side) I found the rivets holding one of the positive brushes had let loose almost all the way so one of the positive brushes was flopping and shorting...

The rest of the starter looks peachy and pretty new...no debris or chunks or raunchy looking wires. I'm gonna hunt down a new end plate and brush assembly and make sure I have both batteries grounded to the block. If it doesn't start then I'll just shoot it/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

rene
 
Yes, each battery should be grounded directly to the engine block. When you think about it, the engine is floating in rubber, so any grounding at the block has to take place through the battery cables. The flimsy engine to body and engine to frame grounds won't carry the amperage necessary to crank the engine.

Casey
 
Well, I guess that combined with the brush holder problem explains a lot! Thanks!!

Rene
 
Mike,

Here is an update on the solenoid for ya. I picked up a new correct solenoid for the 28MT (gear reduction starter) from Lordco auto parts here in Surrey. My cost was $31.

The solenoid is made by Wilson and the part number is 60-01-3599. I've found complete starters built by Bosch at Canadian Tire for $347.

For some of the other parts I went to a place that rebuilt starters and sourced some parts there. The brush holder plate and new brushes ran me $65. Apparently that is a common area of failure on the 28MT. The positive side brush holders are riveted to an insulated material and over time the rivets pull out and the entire brush holder frags the back end of the starter. I was fortunate the holder was still somewhat attached...but the plate holding all 4 brushes needed to be replaced.

Rene
 
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