Ahh that does make alot of sense. So basically driving in 2wd destroys your front dshaft splines. Who woulda ever guessed thats a true statement lol. 
CK5
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Can front Dshaft splines be rebuilt
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
gonefishin
1/2 ton status
For the front shaft I never worry about balance if its not turning all the time when my friend does them we clamp it in a piece of angle iron tack in 4 spots. Roll it check for straightness heat with torch if needed to straighten then weld it up
Ahh that does make alot of sense. So basically driving in 2wd destroys your front dshaft splines. Who woulda ever guessed thats a true statement lol.
I dont know if he had a good idea or not but my dad always put his trucks in 4x4 at least once every month to "lube and exercise the system" as he called it. I have done so on most of my 4x's since. Dont know if it helps but I cant see what it hurts
Has anyone priced a rebuilt front shaft lately??--I bet one can be had for less than 100 bucks now,seeing many FWD car CV shafts go for 59.95 in many cases...
I heard Dodge Dakota front shafts also bolt up to older GM's,provided they have the same yoke at the transfer case end..they have finer splines and a slightly larger diameter...haven't tried one personally yet though..
For what it will cost to have one re-splined its probably cheaper to buy a rebuilt one,use your old one for a core charge...
I have seen many front axle joints seize up in trucks that rarely get used in 4wd,the full time trucks rarely had one rust up and go bad though,despite being in constant motion...one truck I changed the front axle gear lube in that never saw any 4wd action,had RUST on one half of the ring gear,like it never moved a complete revolution!--I thought that was strange,seeing my own truck will still spin the front shaft for a few miles with the hubs unlocked just from drag of the grease in the hubs till they warm up some--but that truck also had front axle u-joints that were seized up good too,probably kept the axles from moving at all!...gear oil looked like a jar of mayonaise was dumped in it too ,from condensation..
I heard Dodge Dakota front shafts also bolt up to older GM's,provided they have the same yoke at the transfer case end..they have finer splines and a slightly larger diameter...haven't tried one personally yet though..
For what it will cost to have one re-splined its probably cheaper to buy a rebuilt one,use your old one for a core charge...
I have seen many front axle joints seize up in trucks that rarely get used in 4wd,the full time trucks rarely had one rust up and go bad though,despite being in constant motion...one truck I changed the front axle gear lube in that never saw any 4wd action,had RUST on one half of the ring gear,like it never moved a complete revolution!--I thought that was strange,seeing my own truck will still spin the front shaft for a few miles with the hubs unlocked just from drag of the grease in the hubs till they warm up some--but that truck also had front axle u-joints that were seized up good too,probably kept the axles from moving at all!...gear oil looked like a jar of mayonaise was dumped in it too ,from condensation..
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...k=Search_01430_1061794_810&pt=01430&ppt=C0362
still kinda expensive
still kinda expensive
I drove a 60s model CJ5 with dual rear wheels for years. It had the closed front knuckles half filled with gear lube.
I never had to replace an axle U-joint. But, every so often I had to replace that high bevel Timkin bearing on top.
It used these strange roller bearings and races for pivots top and bottom where your trucks use ball joints or kingpins.
After the second time I replaced the top one, I was trying figure out why.
I had considered drilling and tapping a hole in the top cap to put a Zerk fitting in so the top bearing could be greased.
I packed it when I put it in, but there was no way for it to get more lube.
I suddenly realized that this design was from the old style Jeeps, without hubs.
None of the originals had locking hubs. They all used slugs or bolted on splined caps.
So, that top bearing was supposed to be splash lubricated by the U-Joint as it spun.
After that, I made it a point to drop the shifter into 4wd between red lights about once a day, and never had to replace that bearing again.
Buy a new slip yoke and a weld stub, cut the weld that holds the old stub into the driveshaft and clean up the tube. Install the new weld stub and slip yoke, making sure to keep it in phase, install the driveshaft. With the front axle off the ground and the transfer case in 2wd have someone spin a front tire so that the shaft spins. Mount a dial indicator close to the cut end of the tube and tap the tube till you get the run out as low as you can get it, tack it in 4 places to keep the weld from pulling it to one side and then weld the circumference. Paint in place if desired.
Gus
Gus
